[SoggyBottoms]

I was debating this for my side rails, however due to time constraints have refrained from building them this season. After much thought, my final idea was to not use treated plywood, just the regular 3/4". I was hoping that the product would seal it completely. you would also save a little weight, by not going with the treated stuff. This way you would avoid the issue of the product not adhering to the treated plywood. Is this a logical thought process or am I missing something.

 

[Sembob]

So I would never use pressure treated wood on my boat. It has so much copper in it now (used to be arsenic) that it is very reactive to metals. It is now standard to fasten P.T. Woods with galvanized fasteners and some of these fail after time. I wouldn't want it anywhere near my boat, gear, skin, etc. I would use ACX plywood and either a spar varnish or the paint intended for concrete slabs. Many of these have a no slip additive.

 

[Osseous]

The pressure treated lumber I'm referring to is on the deck at my HOUSE- I don't have any pressure treated on my boats. To be clear- this stuff didn't stick very well to Doug Fir or to PT. It was a moisture issue, I'm sure. Very wet here last July- and I used what window I had to work with.... but it wasn't enough time for the exposed wood to dry between rain storms, apparently.

 

[Sembob]

Oops I should pay more attention. Sorry

 

[daledevon]

I'm getting a new frame and want to put some walk boards over the tubes, this might be a realy good way to seal it and also not be slick when it gets wet.

 

[MikeMonk]

Rescue It! vs. Restore

Once you know the key differences between the two products (Rescue It by PPG and Restore by Rustoleum,) the choice is clear... RESCUE IT!

Restore: 25 sq. feet per gallon on a good day
Rescue It: 100 sq. feet per gallon (really 50 - two coats required.)

Restore: Have to buy a special roller cover $4
Rescue It: 3/8" or 1/2" paint roller (use a good quality one though.)

Restore: difficult to apply (thick like peanut butter and very messy.)
Rescue It: thicker than a paint or solid stain, but rolls out like a dream (back brushing recommended.)

Restore: dries super hard and brittle.
Rescue It: a true elastomeric coating (expands and contracts with wood.)

Restore: rough under foot, and that special roller inserts air pockets as you roll, which is why after it sets, this stuff becomes super heated in direct sun and is also not water resistant.
Rescue It: lightly textured, barefoot friendly, and offers better water protection.

Restore: Horizontal surfaces only (decking only.)
Rescue It: Horizontal plus vertical surfaces (decking, railing, fences, siding.)

Restore: limited color palette.
Rescue It: tintable in over 100 colors

Both products demand proper prep work. Wood must be clean and any loose fibers sanded down. If your deck is badly weathered, plan on lightly sanding it. Both of these resurfacers will fail if you neglect the prep. They are acrylic and unlike oil penetrating stains, are more likely to peel if you goof. Also remember the surface temp @ application should be between 50 and 90. If the wood is hot to the touch, it's too hot to apply. Work in the shade if you have to and apply two nice coats (6 hr dry time between.) Good for filling gaps 1/4" or less.

 

[elkhaven]

I can't speak for durability yet but I used Behr deck-over and am very happy with the results so far. It is apparently much more like the rescue-it than the restore-it. I read quite a few reviews and the restore product sounded horrible. The deck over got somewhat mixed reviews but most bad reviews came from folks that only single coated it. I decided to go for it as I had a gift card for Home cheapo... I'll hope it holds up. This project was on my boat with bare cdx as the substrate. The Behr product is very nice on the feet and bare skin. It's not really a sandy texture more of silty texture; its very fine grained. It's like a heavy matte finish that is just grippy, FWIW.