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Discussion Starter #1
I just refinished the deck on my house with this stuff- It's a new thick acrylic stain with filling properties and a silica grit. I think it will be fantastic for treating deck side boards on a raft- Great grip, lots of colors, 10 year life (supposedly). I'm very pleased with the handling and final look and feel of this stuff- thought I'd pass it along if anybody is doing a frame project in the off season. I'm planning on putting together a new raft and frame this year- I'll post up some results once I've got it done. Only concern I have is the wear on straps as they pass over the grit surface- thoughts?

This is not my video- but it gives an idea of the results:

Olympic " Rescue It" Deck restoration... Before & After - YouTube
 

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I saw this stuff and the first thing I thought of was side decks on my cat. Let us know how your project works out. How rough is it if you were on your knees moving about the raft? Maybe you could carefully file the strap slots a little smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's got a sand texture for sure- Easy on your feet on the deck, but if you slid across it in a flip you'd get some abrasion. Interestingly, if you don't mix too deeply (into the aggregate at the bottom), you can control how sandy it is when you roll it. Very easy stuff to work with- the Behr and Rustoleum versions don't seem to be as nice to use.
 

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Behr Deck Over

For what it's worth I just made up some decks for a paddle cat with Behr's Deck Over. They came out pretty sweet, gritty but not too abrasive and seem like they'll hold up well to abuse and water. I routed all of the edges and the holes I drilled, wet the surface with a sponge to raise the wood grain for better adhesion and the put on two coats with a roller. I haven't seen the Olympic product but the Behr I think is a much better product than the Restore deck and concrete paint - which is much to rough.
 

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H&C makes an non-slip additive for use in any material called shark grip. It can be picked up at most sherwin williams paint stores. I have some for my use as a contractor and have used it in many different materials.
 

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Transparency

It's got a sand texture for sure- Easy on your feet on the deck, but if you slid across it in a flip you'd get some abrasion. Interestingly, if you don't mix too deeply (into the aggregate at the bottom), you can control how sandy it is when you roll it. Very easy stuff to work with- the Behr and Rustoleum versions don't seem to be as nice to use.
Does it finish translucent, transparent or opaque?

The Behr definitely seems opaque.

Thanks!
 

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Looks like a good winter project...I know my decks need re-doing.
Ciggyboy, what kind of wood are you using?
 

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There's a product out there called "Skatepaint." I think OC ramps is the only distributor. It is not slick and has no sand. It is probably made by one of the big boys, but I can't find it. Maybe an MSDS would tell ya. Anyway, it's for outdoor ramps to weatherproof and not be slick. I like it cause it isn't abrasive. Just an idea for the tinker'rs. Skate or Die!!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does it finish translucent, transparent or opaque?

The Behr definitely seems opaque.

Thanks!

They're all opaque- The Olympic comes in just about any color they offer in their regular stains. Tempting to try to maintain the original wood grain, but it eventually discolors if water seeps in. I'm thinking light grey would be a good choice in this stuff- gonna use it on my trailer deck too.
 

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Looks like a good winter project...I know my decks need re-doing.
Ciggyboy, what kind of wood are you using?

I'm just using 3/4" ACX plywood(or possibly AC with exterior glue) found at most lumber yards, ACX is the better choice. Marine grade would obviously be the best but at $90+ a sheet vs. $40 I didn't want to pony up. ACX is an exterior grade of plywood and a step up (less voids & nicer surface) from the standard CDX ply which runs around $25 a sheet. I have some other boards I made with ACX about 3 seasons ago that are doing ok and have Rustoleum spray on bed liner (tan or black only) but at 9$ bucks for a spray paint can it was just WAY too expensive. I think the Behr will hold up better and should cost 1/5th as much - also the Behr comes in multiple color choices. One last important step I did was after I cut my boards, drilled holes and routed everything, I took some 5 minute epoxy and filled any voids (especially on the sides) as water tends to get into the voids and delaminate the plywood.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What made you choose Behr? All my research said to stay away from it- they've been having problems with it.
 

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I didn't do any research, I was at Home Depot (hate that place) and was going to get some Restore which is in my opinion is too rough and thick and saw the Behr product. It was priced about the same as exterior deck/floor paint ($35 gallon) so I thought I'd give it a try. No problems after 1 trip but that hardly counts... I will say I'm not a fan of Behr products in general and lots of painters who have worked for me in the past don't like their products either.
 

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I just finished recoating my deck boards with Olympic Rescue-It and I think it is going to be a great solution! I have used spar varnish in the past and would need to sand them and recoat them yearly. Last year I was lazy and by the end of the season it was flaking off and down to bare wood. Rescue-It filled all the cracks and sealed the cut edges of the plywood. I think it will last a long time and be cheaper than maintaining/replacing finished plywood. I also like that I could have it tinted to any color and chose a beach sand color that should compliment my palapa!

While it does have a grippy sand texture, I don't think it will significantly wear on my straps etc. I usually have sand between every surface anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update on my deck work with Rescue It from last summer: It's failing miserably in many places- looks great in others. The wood I laid it on was not fully dry, apparently. The wood that was more fully exposed to the sun seems to have done better- and the finish looks like the day I laid it down. Newer wood that was likely carrying more moisture has split and taken the Rescue It finish along with it. It has peeled significantly.
 

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Interesting! The reviews I read said similar things; where it has worked it worked great, where it hasn't it failed quickly. A lot of speculation why. I waited to do mine until it was warm enough in my unheated basement (very low-odor!) since it recommends 50 to 90 degrees. My boards were old and I sanded them clean to rule out moisture and poor surface preparation. I'll just hope for the best. Sorry yours didn't hold up as you were hoping. Your initial enthusiasm got me excited to try it. I will give it some time and update in the future. Sooner if it fails miserably.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I really hope it works for you- I did my research and used the best weather window I had available in our wet summer last year. I sanded heavily- but the overall moisture level (and that of the new Home Depot pressure treated wood- the worst results I had) was just too high, apparently. I believe this is a good product, without any downside compared to the other offerings in this category- but it appears to be very sensitive to moisture content in the wood you're treating.
 

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I know a new formula pressure treated wood came out 8-9 years ago, but the rule of thumb has always been to never try to paint it w/ anything. There are stains that are recommended. I'm pretty sure your issue may have been that fact that it was pressure treated.
We're in a pretty dry climate here in mountains of Utah and I often frame decks with Douglas Fir w/ a strip of WR Grace Ice and Water Shield on the top edge rather than pressure treated. It probably lasts longer than the PT Spruce/Fir that is available out west.
SkidGuard Plywood is pretty hard to beat, although it's sort of a pain to find a source for it.
 

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Most treatments, deck and otherwise, have a minimum time for wood to weather before it can be treated. On treated wood (pressure treated is mostly a thing of the past) most recommend 6 months or more. In a dry climate like Colorado, Utah, Arizona, you may be able to cheat that at 3 months if it is in the sun. Sherwin Williams just came out with a version of the Restore/Rescue It product. I use a lot of their products as a contractor and seem to get better results than the big box stores.
Best advice for any wood product, check the label to see how long to let it weather.
 

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IUsed Pratt And Lambert Perfecto Waterproof Exsterior Paint With The Crushed Walnutshell Additive 5 Years Ago. Has Stood Up Beautify. Tuff Paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have had peeling of this material on old, sanded Doug fir- and significant peeling on new "pressure treated" (the redwood looking stuff from HD) that I let age for a few weeks before applying the material. I had some pressure treated that was installed a year ago- unfinished. Let to cure in the sun- and it peeled too.

Moisture is your absolute enemy with this stuff. If the wood's not dry when you apply it, consider it rented!~
 
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