Old school shore adhesive from a hypalon patch kit. Going strong on my buddies box. Didnt abraid the aluminum either - just cleaned it. V Probably compatible with the existing spray adhesive on your foam.

 

Shore adhesive works well. Use ventilation. Sand the top a little, clean, apply shore, stick foam on, turn upside down, set something heavy on top of the bottom. The next day you can remove the weight, flip the box back over and trim the edges to the bevel of your liking. Voila! You are good to go until the foam wears out again.

 

No a fan of the ethafoam but I use good ole contact cemtent on my closed cell foam. I have one going on five years. The foam is getting worn out and I will have a tough time getting it off to put new on again.

Through my real job I have actually taken some classes on adhesives and super 77 or the other 3m spray adhesives all use a form of latex as the binder. Or so they tell me.
Latex and the rubber component of it always break over time. With ethafoam's more porous construction it seems that it could be happening more quickly. I know they have had to change the formulations of some of the adhesives to still be able to ship. Not sure if they did with super 77. I do still use this adhesive on some temporary jobs.

 

I had the same issues with 3M 77 spray. I then tried using several cans to get better cover on the foam side and it still came off. After that I switched to regular ol' CONTACT CEMENT, which is less costly and has not failed after several seasons. Put it on with a cheap paint brush, two coats on the metal and several coats on the foam side to get good cover. Let it set up and get tacky between coats, in addition to letting final coat set up and get tacky before sticking the foam to the box. Then put some weight on it to press it down and let it sit overnight. I used a piece of plywood with some propane cylinders, a toolbox, a cinder block, etc. that I had laying around.

 

Thanks guys. The 3M 77 spray is what I've been using, and I'm really not happy with it. I have roughed up the surface of the boxes and cleaned them well before application, and it still doesn't seem to hold or last very well. My buddy used it on his boxes many years ago and they are still going strong, so maybe C-Dog is on to something with a change in formulation??
Has anyone used Gorilla Glue? I have some that I could use if it will work. I says on the label that it's good for foam, and waterproof.

 

I would advise against that, I tried it and it didn't work any longer then one season. But getting the dried glue off is impossible, ended up sanding it off the top of the box. That ened my experment with glues.

 

Gorilla Glue

It's you're call, but I decided not to use Gorilla Glue because it "foams up" during the curing process. I've used it on furniture, woodworking, etc., but you have to wet the pieces, apply minimal amount, then clean off the excess that beads/foams out. I wasn't sure how this would react on the ethafoam so went with Contact Cement and never looked back.

 

It's you're call, but I decided not to use Gorilla Glue because it "foams up" during the curing process. I've used it on furniture, woodworking, etc., but you have to wet the pieces, apply minimal amount, then clean off the excess that beads/foams out. I wasn't sure how this would react on the ethafoam so went with Contact Cement and never looked back.

Thanks. That's what I was wondering.

 

I used Weldwood Red Can. It is holding strong, but after one river trip that is hardly a glowing endorsement. I have used it on foam in kayaks and canoes for years without issue, so I expect it will stand up to some use.

Kyle

 

liquid nails.

 

I'll second liquid nails. Cheap and effective. I glued a piece of foam to my dry box 15 years ago. The foam needs to be replaced, but the glue never let go!

 

Barge contact cement, flammable. The non flammable choice is for amateur use.

 

I'll third Liquid Nails. Easy to lay down, holds tight.

It......makes.......me.....feel......GOOD!

 

Mmmmm . . . . never thought of Liquid Nails. Definitely cost effective.

 

I just used liquid nail on the open cell foam and it came right off (Did not stick at all).
I could see it wortking on the kayak style foam, but it did not work at all on the open cell stuff.

Maybe I should have etched the aluminum or something to get it to stick.

Chris

 

I just used liquid nail on the open cell foam and it came right off (Did not stick at all).
I could see it wortking on the kayak style foam, but it did not work at all on the open cell stuff.

Maybe I should have etched the aluminum or something to get it to stick.

Chris

You dont want open cell foam its not a couch cushion. Closed cell

 

gorilla glue worked amazing for me....

 

Foam

KJ I have found that using good quality duck tape works best. Just tape the edges and redo as necessary. Jer

 

KJ I have found that using good quality duck tape works best. Just tape the edges and redo as necessary. Jer

No, no, no man, don't do it. Leaves residue on your foam, box and anyone who has to crawl across or sit on it or......not the right application for the duck. tape.

 

Gorilla glue also gets hard so the edges pulled up, had to reaply. Ii was told to use shore. Gorilla glue worked great on the feat to my yeti though.

 

Several people suggested Shore adhesive. I have Clifton urethane adhesive, would that work? I'd like to use stuff I already have if possible. Thanks for all the ideas.

 

Several people suggested Shore adhesive. I have Clifton urethane adhesive, would that work? I'd like to use stuff I already have if possible. Thanks for all the ideas.

Any good contact adhesive will work. Goodyear pliobond was something worked great as a kid in the old days of sniffing glue. Wait. Thats not your question

Clifton should adhere. Its a contact cement with accelerator

 

The urethene adhesive, as I understand, has some different chemical characteristics, so not sure it will adhere to metal. And, my first thought is - - how much of it do you have? You'll need a LOT. Which is why I went with contact cement. Quart can for about $10 or so and you can brush on several thick layers and still have glue leftover.

 

Yep. I think I'll go the contact cement route. Much less expensive and readily available 5 minutes from my house at HD.
KJ

 

Buena suerte Cat Girl! Once again, how I did mine: 2 coats on the metal, more on the foam, let it get tacky (really important), then stick em' together and put some weight on it for at least 24 hours. Sheet of plywood with whatever on top. So far, anyway, mine are holding firm after 3 seasons, lots of sun, water, wind, walking, scrapping, loading, unloading, etc. If it doesn't work for you I'll be bummed!

 

This is an old discussion, but a perennial issue, so here's an update 9 years later! The windsurfer manufacter North Shore Inc makes a product based on their board decking material, which is both cushioned and grippy. No experience with it on a dry box, but it sounds like a good solution. Down River Equipment suggested it. They don't carry it, but are working on it.