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Coosa Composite hands down. 30 to 50% lighter than plywood and substantially stiffer than plywood. Less than 1% water absorption. Will never rot. Can be worked with normal wood working tools. Just finished my side deck project. Check it. The stuff on top is SeaDek. The decks are undermounted using a wood wedge between frame rails and T-nuts with fangs on the top surface before application of SeaDek.
 
Coosa Composite hands down. 30 to 50% lighter than plywood and substantially stiffer than plywood. Less than 1% water absorption. Will never rot. Can be worked with normal wood working tools. Just finished my side deck project. Check it. The stuff on top is SeaDek. The decks are undermounted using a wood wedge between frame rails and T-nuts with fangs on the top surface before application of SeaDek.
very nice. where are you/where did you source the material? i was thinking mdo for my next set but now more research!
 
Coosa Composite hands down. 30 to 50% lighter than plywood and substantially stiffer than plywood. Less than 1% water absorption. Will never rot. Can be worked with normal wood working tools. Just finished my side deck project. Check it. The stuff on top is SeaDek. The decks are undermounted using a wood wedge between frame rails and T-nuts with fangs on the top surface before application of SeaDek.
Nice setup! What is the working environment like with that deck material? Seems that you would need a respirator and a closed workspace with dust abatement. True?
 
I posted this on another thread recently. These 3/4" CDX decks were made nearly 20 years ago. Sprayed with a 50/50 mixture of Thompsons water seal and linseed oil. Stored indoors when not in use. I've been considering adding legs and doing a recoat at that point.

 
I posted this on another thread recently. These 3/4" CDX decks were made nearly 20 years ago. Sprayed with a 50/50 mixture of Thompsons water seal and linseed oil. Stored indoors when not in use. I've been considering adding legs and doing a recoat at that point.

View attachment 103900
That's still on the original coating after 20 years? Dayum!

Even if you only do one multiday a year, that's 20 weeks (2 summers) worth of sun and water exposure.
 
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Coosa Composite hands down. 30 to 50% lighter than plywood and substantially stiffer than plywood. Less than 1% water absorption. Will never rot. Can be worked with normal wood working tools. Just finished my side deck project. Check it. The stuff on top is SeaDek. The decks are undermounted using a wood wedge between frame rails and T-nuts with fangs on the top surface before application of SeaDek.
@rossco4544: Did you have the machine shop CNC the groove patterns in the Seadeck?
 
With my new double rail
frame coming from WWMW, I’m considering options for decking material.

Part of me really wants to run hardwood because it would look really good, and with the right wood, it would last a very long time. It would be easy to refinish and treat. It would also be relatively durable. I’m considering glueing up strips of Ipe’ or cumaru with a lighter wood for contrast. (All available locally at a lumber importer)

Alternatively, the ease of using something plastic or resin based is also appealing. I’d consider 3/8 polycarbonate but I know it doesn’t love UV exposure. Pros are that it’s nearly indestructible, very easy to machine, and unaffected by water. It is expensive but I can get it for wholesale.

I want something unique that offers a little character, hence no aluminum or HDPE/starboard.

I thought that 5/16” Kevlar ballistic paneling would be cool, but since it’s $30/sqft, it’s a little on the spendy side.


Just wondering if others have musings on these 2 options

Though I have diamond plate aluminum for the decks above the tubes, I love natural wood. My frames were better with the aluminum. So what if you have to re-finish annually. My gear platforms are A grade plywood so I refinish them before each season.
 
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Coosa Composite hands down. 30 to 50% lighter than plywood and substantially stiffer than plywood. Less than 1% water absorption. Will never rot. Can be worked with normal wood working tools. Just finished my side deck project. Check it. The stuff on top is SeaDek. The decks are undermounted using a wood wedge between frame rails and T-nuts with fangs on the top surface before application of SeaDek.

WOW!!
 
@gloominati
here's an old pic of when i first installed kennel floor decking. not sure if it's helpful - if not let me know and i'll try to dig up others. FWIW, this was from 2018. decking is still going strong with zero issues. View attachment 97433
Is there cross bars running under the decking or just resting on the sides of the double rail?
 
Is there cross bars running under the decking or just resting on the sides of the double rail?
no cross bars @bolinj, just resting on the double rail frame. there's no noticeable flex when standing on the decking although there probably would be if the rails were further apart.
hope that helps ... let me know if you want more info or pics
 
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