Ive seen impressive results DIY style with raptor liner, not on raft frames but on auto stuff and it seems very good for the price.

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Welding changes? I would not want to mess with removing Line X or whatever bedliner to grind and weld or sand down to get fittings to fit. Plus, seems like it would be abrasive against the raft.

 

I've used tintable truck bed liner on lots of stuff - cat side boards, inside of my dory, bottom of my drift boat, etc. I think it's a great product for the river. Tough, durable water proof and has a good grip. Line-x from a dealer is much tougher than the home applied stuff (I use Raptor tintable) but either are pretty bomber. As mentioned it would be tough to remove om a frame clean enough for welding but I'm pretty sure you could do it. Get the gun - it does a much better job than trying to roll on

 

I wouldn't like something that rubberized/tacky. I think it's either going to tear up your straps or your straps will tear it up....but that's my personal preference. I haven't seen it used to coat a frame, but if you do it, please do report back and let everyone know how it works.


That said, a wire wheel should take it off fairly efficiently if you do want to make changes. A friend of mine had a hitch mount spare tire/kayak rack on his 5th wheel and the previous builder had used spray-on bed liner. I made some changes for him and it wasn't an impediment to making new welds.




I like POR-15 primer, POR HardNose Paint, and GlistenPC clearcoat. I did my frame 6 or 7 years ago, and it's held up really well. It does need a recoat where the frame rubbed the tubes over time (and road dust didn't help). There are two dings where either a rock or a drybox chipped the paint, but otherwise, it is all super glossy and straps slide great on it. It also has barely marked the boat--really only in the corners with the aforementioned dust/rubbing.

If your base metal was galvanized, do a quick wipe with muriatic (swimming pool) acid. It will etch the galvanized, cut the shine, and give paint a much better surface area to bond to.

 

POR-15 primer, yellow HardNose paint, and gold pearl mixed into the clearcoat.


This was brushed on.