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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting a frame built for a Hyside Pro 16xt and am trying to optimize the use of space in the rower's compartment.

The tube-to-tube dimension is 48" +/- and as of now, I have an approximate compartment size at 20.5inches with a captain's drop floor. I also plan on mounting an umbrella to the center of the kick bar at the front of the captain's bay.

I would like to rig 4 ammo cans in the captain's bay which would account for 33" (8.25x4) of the 48" leaving me with 15" space between boxes.

Would this leave enough room for my feet? Should I plan on not running a traditional kick bar and just push off the dry box in the front bay?
 

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My dories are 15"ish wide. IMHO plenty of space at the sides for my size 13.5's.

I don't use the toe bar in either dories or rafts much. I don't ever really need it to anchor me when I'm pulling or pushing on the oars, but do use it to anchor me in spicy water that may jolt me out of the seat.
 

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I have the same boat, and have run a pair of rockets on each side without difficulty. My frame is the DownRiver Colorado XD with 4 bays, that came with a kickbar, and it is not in the way with all 4 boxes in the bay. That said, I would not order a new frame with a kickbar, as I don't think I get nearly enough use out of it on my big boat. If it is that big of water, I will have my foot up higher on the crossbar to get more leverage, and if not it can push on the cooler or drybox and be fine. I have seen folks strap down an ammo can to act as a kickbar and that makes good sense to me.
 

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I have a Pro 16XT as well and size 12 feet. I run a Canyon 35L cooler on one side and similarly sized Captain's dry box on the other leaving me with a ≈17" footwell. I don't think I would even notice losing another 2". I do not use a footbar. If needed, I brace off the bar or dry box in front of me.
 

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I have a 16 XT Pro as well. I have two custom made 24x16 captain boxes in my rowers compartment, leaving 16" for my feet. I feel like I have plenty of room. I don't have a foot bar. I can reach the cross bar in front of me with my feet if I need to have leverage rowing backwards. Your front cross bar should be closer with rocket boxes in the bay. You can always strap an ammo can to your drop floor if you decide you want a foot brace.

My $.02.

PS I love my XT!
 

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My 16'8" Incept is also 48" between the tubes and I have two gynormous captain's boxes - each holds the equivalent of THREE ammos (25& 3/4" long by 17" and change wide, 15" tall) . I only have a little over 12" width for my feet and it works fine - use a small ammo (patch kit) to push off with my feet, if someone else rows and needs shorter brace no end of stuff to throw down there and push against (cut down pool noodles, throwable cushion, etc). Taller/longer legs just push against top of ammo or stuff same items against back of front drop bag - which usually has stove/griddles/milk crate of veggies so pretty solid brace - and works for them. But boat/frame is built for me, and I run 34" inseam and size 11's feet.

All frames involve compromises. More open space/room on floor is just another spot to accumulate items you are too lazy to put away (empty beverage cans, miscellaneous trash - mostly plastic, stray straps, etc.). The only thing I really want down there is my beer can crushing/sand stake hammer "Thor" (round 1/4" plate welded to 2# sledge). And that's because it gets used more than any other single piece of equipment I carry - says a lot about me and those I run with... In Lava or anyplace I feel there's even a chance of fucking up, Thor gets a strap. Open floor space attracts occupants...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a Pro 16XT as well and size 12 feet. I run a Canyon 35L cooler on one side and similarly sized Captain's dry box on the other leaving me with a ≈17" footwell. I don't think I would even notice losing another 2". I do not use a footbar. If needed, I brace off the bar or dry box in front of me.
I have a 16 XT Pro as well. I have two custom made 24x16 captain boxes in my rowers compartment, leaving 16" for my feet. I feel like I have plenty of room. I don't have a foot bar. I can reach the cross bar in front of me with my feet if I need to have leverage rowing backwards. Your front cross bar should be closer with rocket boxes in the bay. You can always strap an ammo can to your drop floor if you decide you want a foot brace.

My $.02.

PS I love my XT!

What is the overall length of your frame? I'm looking at building mine at 94" which would account for 4 bays at 20.5" with 6 crossbars (one extra for hanging the cooler).

If I extended the rowers compartment from the planned 20.5" to 24.5"+ (to fit a canyon 35) that would add 4+ inches and make my overall frame length 98"
 

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A 20.5" bay is pretty big.
Most dryboxes are 16".
Most coolers are ~18".
20" is a great size for a cooler/drop bag/table, but not exactly modular/swappable with the other two.

Rower's compartment at 20.5" is good for people with legs on the short side of average. Not average or above.

I have a ~88" frame...18-24-18-18
If you have room for 94", maybe bump it to 96, add a 5th 10" bay for rocket boxes athwartships
 

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Not going into dimensions but I really like having a kick bar to brace against and push off with if I'm in Class III or more challenging water. I also really like having a high-back DRE captains chair. YMMV
 

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I like wide open space. My frames is set up so I can run the oars seated from either the front or rear of the bay. I like to row standing, and that requires a lot of acreage, 45" to be precise. The tradeoff is an increase in angular momentum, that is, placing your mass (gear) further from the center of gravity of your boat increases the stroke force required to pivot the boat. This is most noticeable in bigwater when I'm trying to recover from forced pivots.

Another thing I like about having a symmetrical bay design is how easy it is to pass the oars off. I find this especially helpful when training new oarsmen. If they get into a bad line, simply take the oars back. No need for anybody to switch seats in the heat of a rapid.

I have a kickbar through the middle of the bay, and this doubles as a cooler frame for when I choose to bring a cooler (which is rarely).

I use this setup in a 15 Maravia Zephyr (which has the same internal width and length as a 16 XT pro). 13" drop in hatches on either end of a 45" empty rowing bay. I am considering dropping 2 inches from the rowing bay and adding another 13" hatch. Gonna play with that this winter.

I know all this is the opposite of what you are trying to do, but it's worth considering. Especially if you like the flexibility of running a full spectrum of flows with a single frame. Low water runs require light boats, and it's nice to have a frame that will skinny down to accommodate. Excellent choice of boat, btw.
 

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Since our boat (16XT) is often our one boat trip family rig, I designed my frame to be modular depending on the needs of the particular trip. I have a three bay frame with front and back trailer frames. The main frame is 72" long (20.5" front bay with split dry boxes/25" captain bay w/ Canyon 35L on one side and large-is captain box (kitchen)on the other/20.5' cooler bay. The front trailer (16.5") is a table over a drop bag. Back trailer is 15.25" with raised table over dropbag (for groover, etc.). The total length of frame + trailers is 104.5". The trailers allow for the frame to extend beyond the straight tube length without undue rubbing.
Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Technical drawing
Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Technical drawing
 

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I also have a main frame, but only one trailer frame.

The main frame has a front 24" compartment with a drop bag. The rowers compartment has the 24" captain boxes. I sit on a Canyon Prospector cooler. The rear trailer frame is 20" and fits 20mm rocket boxes with a folding table on top.

My overall frame length is 94".
 

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Oh awesome, been to his shop. My next frame is coming from him. He made me a transom mount and his craftsmanship is surreal. I have frame envy now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A 20.5" bay is pretty big.
My intention with the 20.5” bay is that I would be able to switch between a dry box or ammo cans for the first bay. Maybe if I shrink two bays down to 19” I would only have to extend the frame by 2 inches to make up for a 24” Captian’s bay.
 

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Make the ammo can bay 19", and the drybox bay 16.25"...and use a crossbar with Lopros between them so you can interchange it between the two.
You can spend a fortune building an entire NRS/Lopro frame, but only using a couple where you need to adjust between bays will be super convenient in the long run.
 

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The only reason I can think of to run split boxes instead of one big one is if you're going to put your kitchen in it and carry to camp - but please correct me!
 

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Years ago I had a frame with a kick bar, used it a couple times, but found the mechanics of pushing off the top of a dry box better suited to my rowing style. My Avon Pro has a 15 inch wide footwell, which is plenty for me. My Dories are the same for the most part.
 
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