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Will probably be way too short. Width is much more important when determining oar length, as well as seat and oar stand height. How wide are the boat/frame/oar locks?
 

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Do you sit on the frame or up on a seat/box/cooler? How tall do you think your oar stands are? You will most likely need at least 10 foot oars, which I use on my 66" frame. I usually have three feet of oar inside my oar locks, on both my 10 ft raft oars and my 9ft cat oars. 8'' stands on raft and 6'' stands on cat
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My other boat has a 7ft. wide frame on it w/ pins & clips, I just got this udisco nova bucket boat tonight so I adjusted my oars "out" and I have about 30" of handle to the oar lock which leaves 7 & 1/2 feet out and into the water.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
These oars are 10 ft with the blades. And the seat is mounted to the frame. I scored the raft and frame for 200 bucks.
 

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Just went through this myself

I just went through this myself. I went with 10' oars. I bought a 16' Avon earlier this year and needed to pick up oars. The people at Down River Equipment were awesome about helping me figure it out even though I didn't have all of the measurements. They talked about the same things some other people have mentioned (how high you sit above the frame and interior width). They recommended having about 1/3 inside the locks and 2/3 outside the locks.
 

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Oh so you have 10 ft oars. I thought you had 8 ft oars which would have been way off. Those should work fine as long as they feel ok. A good test is blow up boat with frame on level ground. Remove blades from oars and touch oar shafts to the ground. This simulates submerged blades. If the handles are where you want them then they should work. I always reinstall blades before I'm done to make sure they aren't super heavy. If they are the balance is off and something will have to be changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
crap, I have 1/4 inside and 3/4 outside but I can't bring em in any more or I'll be hitting my knees, what should I do?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks you guys I'm going to try out your Ideas tomorrow, and I'm going to water test them on Thursday In the river. see if this boat floats!
 

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I used to hit my knees all the time until I tried sitting lower on my frame. I now sit as close as I can to the crossbars and no more knee issues.
 

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Make sure you have 3" min between handles when oars are level. This will prevent hand crushing blows

Usually you want to sore stuff under the rower (drybox or cooler). This puts you up a bit. Make sure your legs are straight enough to keep knees below your hips. If oars/seat/oarstand is all correct you should have oar handles a little below the chest during the stroke which should mean the handle can drop about 1 foot during the return stroke. With 1/3 inside and 2/3 outside this means the oars lift 2 feet. With 1/4 - 3/4 that's 3:1 so you shouldnt have problems with hitting your oars on your knees unless your geometry is all messed up
 

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yeah, long carlisles --- lots of oar outside the oar towers ... hence reason why people go with sawyers, cataracts or counterbalanced ...
 
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