a nylon t-shirt when it's not too cold (you can get cheap ones at REI), some more layering including a long sleeve Stolquist fleece when it's cold. For really cold water you can buy a waterheater top. Think of how you layer for skiing... i.e. no cotton.
Smells like.....victory. Man you think that smells try smelling hockey gear, no comparison. I talked to Stohlquist at one point and they said when it gets nasty wash it in a 5 gallon bucket with a cap full of bleach. I always hang my gear in the garage till it dries and that prevents 90% of the smell.
Options for layering. You got a few great ones from above. Think about basic layering.
1) Base layer- quick drying, light, and moves with the body.
2) Mid-layer- heavier weight, adds distance from the shell, and works when wet.
3) Shell (your Drytop).
In paddling most people use a single base layer under their drytops. A wetsuit style top (Hydroskin- NRS= Great choice) or a thiner fleece style works best. In really cold weather people tend to add on layers. This is a great option because you can layer based on the weather, length of run, or any special needs.
As far as the stink goes... wash your stuff more often. Once a season may not cut it for your needs. Let you paddling gear dry before packing it away. And, NEVER throw wet gear in the trunk- where it can fester in the heat. The stink is really coming from you. Meaning that it's really your own skin cells that have been scrapped off by the inside of the shell. Those skin cells grow bacteria and that's what makes the smell. If you're wearing some kind of base layer- most smell can be removed in a regular wash. If you have not been wearing a base layer- the smell goes directly into the shell. You'll need to wash the jacket. Buy some "Sink the Stink". It is super strong stuff, and a little goes a long way. One ounce per 20 gallons of water.
I have found that basic cooking vinegar used in the washing machine will eliminate just about any smell, use about 1/2 cup per load and regular detergent and anything will come out smelling just fine. sure its cheap but it still makes my old, old base layers come out smelling just fine
Unless its winter or I am spending a LOT of time upside down, i am almost always too hot. I wear the thinnest sythetic shirt I can find. If its cold out I wear two and usually widh I hadn't.
If it is nice out I take my gear off streamside and go right back in with the shirt to rinse it and to cool off. Most people think I am nuts getting back in the thirty something degree water, but I find it refreshing and odor saving. I wash my poky pro every so often, but my dry top rarely goes in the washer. As stated earlier, letting your stuff dry is key. Coat hangers goa long way to facilitate that and you can hang is right in your pick up if you leave a little venting.
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