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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Buzzards:

We want to replace the Alfons Haar valves on an older Avon (see: http://www.alfonshaar.co.uk/pdf/brochure_dinghey_valve.PDF) with Leafield B7 or C7s. The AH valves are similar to Leafield B7 and C7 in that they are flush mount and screw together against the inside and outside of the fabric without the need for a recessed rubber-boot.

My question: Assuming the diameter of the hole (after the AH valve is removed) is the same or can be cut to the correct diameter for a B7 or C7, can the bottom half of the B7 or C7 valve be squeezed through the hole by folding/pinching/stretching the fabric? The goal of course is to do a simple replacement without any cutting or glueing.

Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks.

BCJ
 

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Another Option

The female part of the AH valve looks very similar to the A7 or B7, you might want to try and see if they are compatible. However they do not sit as flush as a C7 valve. If you are looking for more of that low profile then there isn't anyway to stretch the fabric without cutting it to fit the female part in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Muchas gracias! (Many thanks!)

I was pretty much skeptical already but Man! If we can figure out how to keep this boat going in style! That is my goal!

Hasta luego

PS There is one dealership in England who still carries "replacemeng kits" for the Alfons Haar valve. The kits for the ancient AH valves like Uhler has on his old AV boat look exactly Leafield stuff . . . .

HASTA LA SEEYA LAYTER ...
 

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Old Guy in a PFD
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Dude!
Do you not recall replacing the cheap plastic valves on Udisco boats right out of the box?
1) Remove old valve
2) Use reinforcing brass plate of new Brass Valve to mark inside and outside circle
3) Cut inside circle. Carefully. Very carefully.
4) CAREFULLY work base of new valve into boat; In every circumstance is it unacceptable to cut or tear the hole larger than the base. As Bonzo said once; slow and easy gets er done, rammin and jammin is for amateurs.
5) Using liberal amounts of glue etc. create and install a circle patch to reinforce cheap Udisco Hypalon area around new valve.
6) Install outside reinforcing brass plate.
7) Crank the F^*[email protected]* down using really big Vice Grips (note; you are not allowed to scratch or dent the brass nut, base plate, or valve body).
8) Blow up boat; check for leaks
9) Drink celebratory beer.
 

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Think if you really want the valves in the same place. Many of the older boats put the valves in places that are tough to get at when loaded or just in general. If the answer is yes, as pinned said, you will have to decide whether to cut the existing hole to get the c-7 female in and then donut it, or make a small slice somewhere else, put it in, inside/outside patch the slice.. If you dont want the valves in the same place you can remove the old valves and make a small slice there to get the inner piece in. Then you can inside/outside patch that and install the c-7's wherever you want. The guts of the b-7 are in the boat so I dont see how you are going to get it to work with the old valves. It wont feel like much of an upgrade when it comes time to service them. Go with the c-7 or d-7.
 

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$26.50 us$ + shipping for Alfons Haar valve or use a D7 or C7 Leafield about $20. Cut a small slit the edge of the hole, remove the backing plate and use a new doughnut patch with the Leafield installed over the hole.

PW
 

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$26.50 us$ + shipping for Alfons Haar valve or use a D7 or C7 Leafield about $20. Cut a small slit the edge of the hole, remove the backing plate and use a new doughnut patch with the Leafield installed over the hole.

PW
You can also try to clean the valve before trying a replacement.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...SF1-inflation-valve.pdf?11349417348587889597d

I have an old Avon Expedition with these valves and cleaned the stem and diaphram and put some 303 on the diaphram rubber and the valves are holding air much better now. A rebuild kit or leafield replacement may not be needed.

PW
 

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Price may have gone up since then....
 
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