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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone out there ever tried to created a V or Z drag system with your raft that is rigged for a fishing frame? I have a Down River fishing frame with "Anchor" system already, but thought by maybe putting carabiner on the eye of the anchor, running a rope thru it back to the boat and back down to the eye where I would tie it off might work better? By doing this, it would basically create a pulley system that would be easier to pull in.

However, I worry about the multiple ropes in the water becoming twisted while anchoring or lowering and then it might be a REAL bitch to pull in. Just wondering if anyone has ever tried to do this. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is not what I am after. I have an inflatable raft with a fishing frame. I don't want a crank like that on the back of my raft, plus I don't have the room or a space for it. I am talking about simply adding a carabiner and nothing else to my system. thanks for the link though.
 

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GoBro
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For a pulley system to work with an anchor roughly half the hardware needs to be submerged. No bueno for the hardware. Also for the system to be ready and available it will necessarily be a significant entrapment hazard which you have expressed some concern about. I struggle to understand how you can stow an anchor but don't have space for a small hand winch...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I still don't think you understand my setup. I have a 14 foot inflatable raft with a frame that allows a rope to thru the frame and the over the back side over a small wheel that the anchor is suspended from. That's it. I don't have a place to drill and mount a winch. There is a seat directly above the end of the frame where the anchor simply dangles from. Quite similar to this San Juan. Now where you gonna mount that winch with plenty of room for the handle to operate and how are you gonna be able to stow it away safely while you are in whitewater as I currently can with my existing anchor system?
 

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GoBro
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Eh, I don't know what I'm talking about...

Put a water capable large diameter pulley on the anchor. Line is doubled in the water while anchored but you aren't doing that in strong current anyways right? While it's retracted the loop is too small and out of the way to do anything. You will need twice as much rope in the raft but you need to be able to manage the rope anyways right? 2 to 1 simple setup, no mess no winch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have already set it up with my boat and it works just fine in the parking lot or sitting water. The rope is simply coiled up (a small 6 mill line) next to me. I runs to a pulley first right next to the oar seat (as in the picture) then it turns back and runs the frame all the way to the back of the boat, over a small wheel, down the anchor, thru a biner, back up to the boat to a small pulley tied on to the back center d ring and then back down to the anchor. It pulls in like no ones business and is very easy to pull, even though the anchor is 35 lbs! HOWEVER< I have yet to try to deploy that in a moving water as I have in the past with the standarf factory system that works ok, but is tough to pull in. AND THAT MY FRIEND IS WHAT I am asking for any input on. ANYONE OUT THERE EVER DONE THIS? Basically what I have setup is a Z Drag system, just a Z drag for an anchor if that helps. BECAUSE I already have a 2.1 system from the factory. And YES I do anchor in current quite a bit while fishing. Not current fast enough to swamp you or anything like that, but a few knots I guess. And THAT current is WHY pulling in anchor in is more difficult. I sure as hell would not go thru this effort if I where in a lake.
 

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Is this what you are talking about? I haven't tried it, but was thinking about it. It's supposed to make the anchor easier to pull up.
 

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6 mil seems like a small diamter rope. I don't like the through-frame routing of ropes as it adds significant drag to the system as it runs over the tube bend radii, definitely more than just pulleys like on the NRS setups. Per the description above, you need a pulley at the anchor, not just a biner that the rope runs through. A 2-1 system with a 35# anchor is not a big deal (hell, a 1-1 on a 35# anchor is not that tough), so something seems wrong if you're having that much trouble pulling it - even in moving water. The lead anchor I cast myself comes in at 53#, and my wife or I can haul with a 2-1 with a little effort. Even with only the 2-1, when the anchor rolls and twists the line, it's a bitch to pull until the 2 lines unwrap from each other - you're asking for a headache with a more complicated system.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cataraftgirl, I was talking about an additional pulley (biner) at the anchor and then a pulley at the back of the boat, but I think I am going to try this 2:1 system first because I think it is less likely to tangle than 3 lines in the damn water which is what I have setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Watermonkey, my frame is not changing now. A little on the late side for that, I cant imagine that the rope drag can be that awfully much rubbing on the inside of the frame. Anyway it is what it is now. Also, I meant to say it was a 7 mill, but hell it might even be a 8 mill. Also forget to mention that my shoulder, especially the right one is extremely screwed up from arthritis and certain motions for me are VERY painful. Hence, why I am trying to get something that can pull easier. I will say in decent current, that pulling a 35 pound anchor up against maybe some loose rocks or whatever is holding onto it sometimes is not that easy at all.
 

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Cataraftgirl, I was talking about an additional pulley (biner) at the anchor and then a pulley at the back of the boat, but I think I am going to try this 2:1 system first because I think it is less likely to tangle than 3 lines in the damn water which is what I have setup.
I found that pic while reading through some old threads about anchor systems. It looks pretty simple to set up. Let us know if you try it out and how it works. When you've got a bum shoulder, you take whatever help you can get. Keep on fishing!
 

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I've been running the system you're asking about- One pulley built into the hanger off the frame, and one just above the anchor. Here's what you'll find- 1/2 the effort, but 1/2 the progress with each pull. My 30 lb anchor lifts at 15 lbs of effort- but I have to pull in twice as much rope to get the job done. You can add as many pullies as you'd like (within reason) and you'll get the same result- effort goes down, but progress does at the same rate.
 

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Does your rope rub directly on your frame? If it does I had the same problem and it creates a unbelievable amount of friction even if the angle of the rope against the frame is very slight like mine was. I had to move the pulley on the anchor tower slightly to the rear (towards the pulley that the anchor hangs from) to eliminate the rubbing. It works much better now. Keep in mind that NRS sells individual components for their anchor system. You have to call them though as it does not show this on their web site.
 

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2:1 Anchor

The basic 2 to 1 discussed in this thread is extremely common throughout the northwest. I used to laugh at folks that rigged their anchors that way as I've always believed simplest (fewest pulleys) was best for anchor systems...BUT I have gravitated towards a 45lb anchor over the years (I want to stop when I drop it) and am really tired of pulling my a// off to get it up to the bracket. I've used a few of these systems over the past few years and really like the easy up. I'm getting a new boat in the next few weeks and one of the first modifications will be to add a 2:1 to the anchor system. The other anchor mod will be a pivoting pully at the rope return. My biggest gripe about the NRS system is the fixed pulley is never in line with how I'm pulling and I wear out sheaves at the rope return (plus have to pull through all that friction, of grinding my sheave against the side plates).

Check your system and make sure all the sheaves (pulley's) are running smoothly when you lift your anchor, especially the one up front (rope return), if they are rubbing or not turning it will make things much harder. Lastly ensure that your rope isn't too big, it will also increase friction a surprising amount. You will be able to run smaller rope with a 2:1 with less hand fatigue since your pulling half the weight.

I also feel like I need to remind people not to tie their anchor to the frame or tie a knot in the end of the rope. I've seen several comments on doing this in other threads and it's really dangerous. I watched a 22' Duckworth go down in the Columbia because of this simple mistake. If you accidentaly drop your anchor in fast current you propably won't have time to cut the rope and you surely wont be able to untie the knot. Sorry for the soap box just a pet peeve.

Good luck!
 

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update

I rigged my anchor as a 2:1 over the weekend (just like in post # 8 and it worked awesome. I cannot believe my stubborn ass didn't do this years ago. It was actually faster than pulling the full weight because I could just go hand over hand.
 
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