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Thinking about picking up a motor and would like to see how people mounted there motors and transoms. Its going on a DRE style frame on a 16ft cat but any images will help. Just getting ideas for right know.
 

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If your drop rails go to the back of your frame you can have a plate welded between top and bottom bars. Then there are two way to deal with adjusting the motor height. The cheap is to adjust the tube pressure and shift the load to make it right. This will take some trial and error but will work if you put in some do diligence to figure out the right combination ahead of time. The less than cheap is to use one of these...

Seasense Motor Brackets

There are a lot of different versions but don't get the cheap one's the only have a single linkage in the middle. I have seen the cheap ones twist with just a 5hp motor when you turn the motor sharply and apply a side load to the linkage.
 

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As oarboatman posted, I have used this type folding motor mount on sail boats. up to a 22 ft Catalina. Never a bit of a problem with a big Evenrude 6 hp on the back and several times pulling similar sized 22 Catalinas off shore in big winds that pushed them into and put me as well in serious trouble. My motor and mount never even hinted at failure.

Again, as oarboatman posted, my advice is do not attempt to save money on cheap designs. Lots of torque on these mounts especially if you do emergency rescue tows as I have. Make sure every thing on the mount is stainless and strong.
 

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Thinking about picking up a motor and would like to see how people mounted there motors and transoms. Its going on a DRE style frame on a 16ft cat but any images will help. Just getting ideas for right know.
RE: Motor mounts, one cam u-bolt a 2x12 to the cat yoke, Atop the 2x12, laminate a sheet of 1/2" ply on either side in case of grain separation in the 2x12. That leaves you with a 2.5" thick slightly compressable surface to clamp to. A motor on Lake Powell: Priceless
 

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If you're going to rig up a removable transom system, don't forget that the bow can become the stern and you can push your boat backwards if that makes your motor mount/ seating configuration any easier to rig.
 

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Here's one I put together on a welded frame that breaks down. The mount can be removed and a regular bar put in its place when the mount isn't needed. ImageUploadedByMountain Buzz1418761583.573896.jpg ImageUploadedByMountain Buzz1418761630.059323.jpg
 

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Hi,

I've successfully used a transom on the rear of my NRS cat frame, made of two pieces of 3/4" plywood, u-bolted to the upper frame crossmember. With a long shaft motor, it's a quick and easy installation, and you don't need a "jackass" or other type of motor lift device. Might work with a short shaft -- I just never tried.

On my larger Jack's El Tigre Grande 20'/30" tube boat, the frame sits so much higher that I did go to a jackass. I had a small welded adapter made from heavy aluminum angle, which dropped down over the rear yoke crossbars. [See attached pictures]

Interestingly, on my Grand Canyon trips with that boat, I found that a stainless steel jackass (the one in the picture) flexed quite a bit. In contrast, one that my buddy on that trip (with the almost identical boat and motor) had a jackass made of heavy aluminum angle material did not flex. Sold my stainless model on Craigslist, found a used aluminum one on eBay, and the next Grand trip I had no flex at all. But that was with an 18 HP four stroke -- if you are using smaller, lighter motors in less aggressive water, then flex may not be an issue.

Hope this helps.

Rich Phillips
 

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