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Transition from Oar-rights -> Gilman Grips w/o Oar Rights?

4401 Views 54 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  MT4Runner
I'm interested in people's experience moving from Oar-rights to Gilman Grips w/o Oar Rights.

I'd prefer not to get into a P&C vs. Oar-rights vs. whatever discussion and would really like to hear 1st person feedback on folks that have made this transition if possible.
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A little side project for those DIY inclined. I had a old pair of Cataract oars with the steel rod counterbalance. Didn't want to spend the money on Gilman grips or shorten the oars (required on Cataract counterweights if you add Gillmans). I stripped the old handle down to the steel rods for about 5", mixed up a big batch of Bondo auto body putty, put on some latex gloves and put about a cup in my palm. Grabbed the handle and positioned everything to the right orientation and let if set up ( 10 minutes). Next cut off excess, sanded it down and sprayed with truck bed liner. Viola! instant custom fitted grips. The Bondo is bomber and easy to repair if there is any damage
 

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All that banter and neither of you came up with Douché?
Never thought of that turn of a phrase but might be my new favorite word. Douche: exclamation. Used as an acknowledgment during a discussion of a good or clever point made by a jerk. Wouldn't have applied here because we were just joking but I can think of many times I would have liked to use that exact word. Good one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Thanks all for the feedback. The question originated from moving from 10' oars to 10.5' oars for my rig (156R). Am going to sink some cash into new oars and based on this thread, will likely go with Gilman CW grips.

So - the follow on question here is....how often do people outright lose an oar (I did in a flip a House but that was due to poor rigging)? I ask because I'm thinking about not putting gilmans on my spares with the idea in a pinch I can just pull a spare with a standard grip off the side and then at some time later move my gilman to my spare oar set. Thoughts?
 

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Thanks all for the feedback. The question originated from moving from 10' oars to 10.5' oars for my rig (156R). Am going to sink some cash into new oars and based on this thread, will likely go with Gilman CW grips.

So - the follow on question here is....how often do people outright lose an oar (I did in a flip a House but that was due to poor rigging)? I ask because I'm thinking about not putting gilmans on my spares with the idea in a pinch I can just pull a spare with a standard grip off the side and then at some time later move my gilman to my spare oar set. Thoughts?
A spare without the GG can go on either side. With them, they’re committed to that one side. Plus it’ll save you some $$$.
 

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FWIW, it's only $35/oar to add a Gilman when ordering from Sawyer. An extra $10 for counter balance. I thought that was a pretty good deal!
 

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Counterweights have sunk more oars than anything else, in my opinion. I won't get into the whole leash debate (i use them) but a weighted oar is in my opinion more likely to break a leash (and your teeth if you jamb one in downstream) - just more weight and more force. Generally, a counter-weighted oar will float vertically for a little bit until the oar shaft fills with water. Grab it while you can. I lost a counter-weighted oar in a train wreck in Westwater. After that, I filled the oar shaft with spray foam. That solved the sinking problem but the best solution is to adjusted your rig so that you don't need them. Absent counterweights I'd say fairly rare to see someone with leashes loose an oar.
 

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Thanks all for the feedback. The question originated from moving from 10' oars to 10.5' oars for my rig (156R). Am going to sink some cash into new oars and based on this thread, will likely go with Gilman CW grips.

So - the follow on question here is....how often do people outright lose an oar (I did in a flip a House but that was due to poor rigging)? I ask because I'm thinking about not putting gilmans on my spares with the idea in a pinch I can just pull a spare with a standard grip off the side and then at some time later move my gilman to my spare oar set. Thoughts?
How wide is your frame? I am about 82" between the locks on my 156R and really like 10's.
10.5's will give you a "taller"/high gearing but less leverage/"low" gear. If you go longer in a given setup you do need CW's (and/or lighter blades) to have a similar P force at the handle.

If you plan to not run Gilmans on your spares, I'd recommend removing your standard grips at home and reinstall with either a screw or hot glue--something you can modify/swap in camp. A standard oar handle that is epoxied in takes significant force, heat, or impact (sometimes all three) to remove, and is best done in the shop. Talking to Gilman, some come out easy, some are a royal pain...and you never know. For sure his preference is to install them in new oars that have never had a factory handle epoxied in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
How wide is your frame? I am about 82" between the locks on my 156R and really like 10's.
10.5's will give you a "taller"/high gearing but less leverage/"low" gear. If you go longer in a given setup you do need CW's (and/or lighter blades) to have a similar P force at the handle.

If you plan to not run Gilmans on your spares, I'd recommend removing your standard grips at home and reinstall with either a screw or hot glue--something you can modify/swap in camp. A standard oar handle that is epoxied in takes significant force, heat, or impact (sometimes all three) to remove, and is best done in the shop. Talking to Gilman, some come out easy, some are a royal pain...and you never know. For sure his preference is to install them in new oars that have never had a factory handle epoxied in.
I'm about 85" between locks. Good input on the spares approach.
 
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