[MT4Runner]

This is a fantastic intermediate solution, or a great way for rowers with two different styles or confidence levels to share the same boat.

I used oar rites to start out than made the transition to “open” locks. I still wanted the help in the “big” stuff but wanted to try feathering plus my fishing buds can’t row for shit so they need all the help they can get sooo… I just cut the effin things off. Leave about a inch and round the corners. Like this…
and you can ship, rotate 180 and, everything is as you want it. Stopper placement must be taken into consideration cause you don’t want to smash your thumbs together. A fist with plus a bit and you aren’t going to hurt yourself. I haven’t engaged the locked no feathering thing in years. Free the wrist and the mind will follow.


7 View attachment 82665

 

[MT4Runner]

The downfall of them is a learning curve on big water. The moment you get turned around you need less to think about. Rights are just right.

While I like my basic cylindrical grips, I respectfully disagree that Gilman groups have any greater learning curve than completely unfeathered.

I used oar rights for almost 2 decades, my first experience unfeathered was with Gilman’s own oars about 10 minutes before I dropped into Big Mallard at 4’.

In my opinion they fill the big void between and unfeathered.

For the record, I don’t care what anyone else uses. It doesn’t impact me. Viva la difference

 

[MT4Runner]

As a beginning rower reading the opinions about P/C v. open v. rights and wondering what the right answer really is, I saw the Gilman's and thought "hey, that's probably the ticket right there." Alas, I bought squaretops. I'm thinking about busting out my whitlin' knife and recreating the shape (jk).

Gilman can modify your square top to take the grips.

 

[MT4Runner]

 

[MT4Runner]

Ok...odd question. Any problems using gilman grips with oars used as rain fly poles? You know...the ones that have the ring that goes around the grip.

You need to add a 1’ strap to each

 

[MT4Runner]

Maybe some small loops of 7mm accessory cord or hoopie?

 

[MT4Runner]

P.S. the poles are a lot easier to carry up from the raft any way.

And if you wax your rope wraps, it's super annoying when other people drop your oars in the sand while helping take down teh fly

 

[MT4Runner]

Spins more freely if you feather a lot

Some dory drivers use waxed leather wraps with tallow on top of that.

 

[MT4Runner]

I was reading my email notifications and thought you were both being really nasty with each other.
That whooshed right over my head!
😂

 

[MT4Runner]

Thanks all for the feedback. The question originated from moving from 10' oars to 10.5' oars for my rig (156R). Am going to sink some cash into new oars and based on this thread, will likely go with Gilman CW grips.

So - the follow on question here is....how often do people outright lose an oar (I did in a flip a House but that was due to poor rigging)? I ask because I'm thinking about not putting gilmans on my spares with the idea in a pinch I can just pull a spare with a standard grip off the side and then at some time later move my gilman to my spare oar set. Thoughts?

How wide is your frame? I am about 82" between the locks on my 156R and really like 10's.
10.5's will give you a "taller"/high gearing but less leverage/"low" gear. If you go longer in a given setup you do need CW's (and/or lighter blades) to have a similar P force at the handle.

If you plan to not run Gilmans on your spares, I'd recommend removing your standard grips at home and reinstall with either a screw or hot glue--something you can modify/swap in camp. A standard oar handle that is epoxied in takes significant force, heat, or impact (sometimes all three) to remove, and is best done in the shop. Talking to Gilman, some come out easy, some are a royal pain...and you never know. For sure his preference is to install them in new oars that have never had a factory handle epoxied in.

 

[MT4Runner]

I'm about 85" between locks.

Yeah, you can get away with either 10's or 10.5's at that width, and I'd lean toward 10.5's, too.
Run your 10's for spares.