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I'm interested in people's experience moving from Oar-rights to Gilman Grips w/o Oar Rights.

I'd prefer not to get into a P&C vs. Oar-rights vs. whatever discussion and would really like to hear 1st person feedback on folks that have made this transition if possible.
 

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Haven't tried Gilmans and have heard they're cool and I'm not saying they're unnecessary with the following. I think once you start rowing open more, you'll learn a natural feel when you have purchase so you may not need the indexing that Gilmans provide.
 

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I went from convertible oar rights, which I mostly rowed as spinnies anyway, to Gilman grips, on a Grand trip. I found them to orient very well, with it being easy to feather both forwards and back. Then easy to return to a normal vertical orientation. They’re worth trying.
 

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I used oar rites to start out than made the transition to “open” locks. I still wanted the help in the “big” stuff but wanted to try feathering plus my fishing buds can’t row for shit so they need all the help they can get sooo… I just cut the effin things off. Leave about a inch and round the corners. Like this…
and you can ship, rotate 180 and, everything is as you want it. Stopper placement must be taken into consideration cause you don’t want to smash your thumbs together. A fist with plus a bit and you aren’t going to hurt yourself. I haven’t engaged the locked no feathering thing in years. Free the wrist and the mind will follow.


7
Wood Line Gas Tints and shades Trigger
 

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I have two sets of OG cataracts pre thumb notch. I ran them for a while with oarrights, and was too chicken to run anything else. At some point I started to get tendonitis, and started looking for other options. Gilman grips remind me of ergon grips for mountain biking, and I like them so I tried them, and I really like them with just a ring over rope wrap. Feathering is fun, and the tendonitis is gone too. I am not sure I like the counterweighted ones (running 8.5 foot oars) but the grips are great for me.
 

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I tried Gilman grips (coming from open oar locks). They made my wrists numb and I scrapped them after I got home. I'm sure the orientation could have been adjusted and optimized but I personally didn't see enough benefit to futz with them. Back to open oarlocks for me. Other people love them.
 

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I have two sets of OG cataracts pre thumb notch. I ran them for a while with oarrights, and was too chicken to run anything else. At some point I started to get tendonitis, and started looking for other options. Gilman grips remind me of ergon grips for mountain biking, and I like them so I tried them, and I really like them with just a ring over rope wrap. Feathering is fun, and the tendonitis is gone too. I am not sure I like the counterweighted ones (running 8.5 foot oars) but the grips are great for me.
GG bought me extra years of rowing on old arthritic wrists. The value for me is comfort, not primarily indexing. While I do find extra ease and subtlety in feathering, a Cataract or DIY handle notch solves blade orientation just fine. What’s great about the GG is the ability to palm them instead of grip 24/7. Makes a big difference in fatigue over time.

GG just a slight variation of indexing with open locks, not an oar right substitute or some new category. They will make for an easier transition from fixed blades. People seem to like them or hate them. You don’t necessarily need to try them on the water to know the answer.
 

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This is a fantastic intermediate solution, or a great way for rowers with two different styles or confidence levels to share the same boat.
I used oar rites to start out than made the transition to “open” locks. I still wanted the help in the “big” stuff but wanted to try feathering plus my fishing buds can’t row for shit so they need all the help they can get sooo… I just cut the effin things off. Leave about a inch and round the corners. Like this…
and you can ship, rotate 180 and, everything is as you want it. Stopper placement must be taken into consideration cause you don’t want to smash your thumbs together. A fist with plus a bit and you aren’t going to hurt yourself. I haven’t engaged the locked no feathering thing in years. Free the wrist and the mind will follow.


7 View attachment 82665
 

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It seems to me that the grips would be redundant with the OR's. If you were transitioning from OR to just open locks I think that would be helpful potentially.
The benefit of Gilman grips from an ergonomics perspective is how well the protect against carpal tunnel syndrome and really spare your palms.

The downfall of them is a learning curve on big water. The moment you get turned around you need less to think about. Rights are just right.
 

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When I see someone with oar rights, I automatically assume they are a kook that doesn’t know how to row.
When I see someone make a comment like that I automatically assume they are a doucebag who nobody want to raft with anyway. Having said that, I love the Gilman grips. At 66 I'm starting to feel arthritis in my wrists and these help that significantly.
 

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The downfall of them is a learning curve on big water. The moment you get turned around you need less to think about. Rights are just right.
While I like my basic cylindrical grips, I respectfully disagree that Gilman groups have any greater learning curve than completely unfeathered.

I used oar rights for almost 2 decades, my first experience unfeathered was with Gilman’s own oars about 10 minutes before I dropped into Big Mallard at 4’.

In my opinion they fill the big void between and unfeathered.

For the record, I don’t care what anyone else uses. It doesn’t impact me. Viva la difference
 

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As a beginning rower reading the opinions about P/C v. open v. rights and wondering what the right answer really is, I saw the Gilman's and thought "hey, that's probably the ticket right there." Alas, I bought squaretops. I'm thinking about busting out my whitlin' knife and recreating the shape (jk).
 
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