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Welding it is something I've considered but rates will likely be more up here in the great white north. If I go that route, do I need to disconnect the grounds on my trailer lights? For some reason I worry I'll fry them if I don't.

Is a lock washer on both sides a thing? I honestly don't know. I assumed 1 lock nut would keep it tight?
Yes, lock washers on both sides is a thing but I doubt it will prevent problems for you. Plus, for another little bit of work, you could avoid major troubles. Not saying they will happen but I personally wouldn’t make that my raft trailer long term solution.

Road vibration will cause the nuts to back off over time. Could locktite, nylock, or even drill longer bolts and cotter pin. Problem is, once there’s even just a little flex, that side to side flex will exacerbate the problem. You don’t need to disconnect anything to weld. Don’t have it hooked to your vehicle when welding though.
 

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Welding it is something I've considered but rates will likely be more up here in the great white north. If I go that route, do I need to disconnect the grounds on my trailer lights? For some reason I worry I'll fry them if I don't.

Is a lock washer on both sides a thing? I honestly don't know. I assumed 1 lock nut would keep it tight?
That could be...but running a bead up each side of those angle iron pieces would maybe take 5-10 minutes. Might be worth finding a welder around there, bring him a 12 pack, and hit them up at the end of the day. Feels like there is enough industry stuff in your area that welders should be fairly abundant.

A single lock washer on the nut side should be sufficient but split washers aren't that great at holding torque especially in this application where they will see a lot of vibration. If you are really concerned...order some Nordlock washers. Sort of expensive compared to a traditional split washer but they are super good at holding torque in high vibration applications. You could also do Nylock nuts or some good threadlocker fluid if you don't wanna do Nordlocks.


Looked on Amazon.ca and a 20 pack of the Nordlock washers ranges from $15-27 depending on the size and vendor.
 

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That could be...but running a bead up each side of those angle iron pieces would maybe take 5-10 minutes. Might be worth finding a welder around there, bring him a 12 pack, and hit them up at the end of the day. Feels like there is enough industry stuff in your area that welders should be fairly abundant.

A single lock washer on the nut side should be sufficient but split washers aren't that great at holding torque especially in this application where they will see a lot of vibration. If you are really concerned...order some Nordlock washers. Sort of expensive compared to a traditional split washer but they are super good at holding torque in high vibration applications. You could also do Nylock nuts or some good threadlocker fluid if you don't wanna do Nordlocks.


Looked on Amazon.ca and a 20 pack of the Nordlock washers ranges from $15-27 depending on the size and vendor.
You are not the first person to recommend nordlocks, and the other is a friend who is a machinist.... but he also suggested split rings would probably be OK and would be better than nylocks.

I'll look into the nordlocks.

The other thing I will say is that if you saw how the rest of this bolt together trailer was put together, you might not care about these fasteners.
 

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Yes, lock washers on both sides is a thing but I doubt it will prevent problems for you. Plus, for another little bit of work, you could avoid major troubles. Not saying they will happen but I personally wouldn’t make that my raft trailer long term solution.

Road vibration will cause the nuts to back off over time. Could locktite, nylock, or even drill longer bolts and cotter pin. Problem is, once there’s even just a little flex, that side to side flex will exacerbate the problem. You don’t need to disconnect anything to weld. Don’t have it hooked to your vehicle when welding though.
Thanks for the feedback.

I'll probably look into welding it at some point. And I'll likely look into nordlocks for the other frame fasteners.

Edit to add: should I weld the fasteners in place as well or are they window dressings after the main welding is done?
 

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Nordlocks look rad. Those are new to me. But I stand by welding. You will be going and stopping on bolts. The tongue holes will ovalize. The joint will flex. It will get worse over time. Maybe nothing happens. Maybe your trailer tongue folds on the way to a trip.
 

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Right on. I'll try to figure out a local welding solution.

In the mean time I'll keep checking the torque on the nuts.
 

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That could be...but running a bead up each side of those angle iron pieces would maybe take 5-10 minutes. Might be worth finding a welder around there, bring him a 12 pack, and hit them up at the end of the day. Feels like there is enough industry stuff in your area that welders should be fairly abundant.

A single lock washer on the nut side should be sufficient but split washers aren't that great at holding torque especially in this application where they will see a lot of vibration. If you are really concerned...order some Nordlock washers. Sort of expensive compared to a traditional split washer but they are super good at holding torque in high vibration applications. You could also do Nylock nuts or some good threadlocker fluid if you don't wanna do Nordlocks.


Looked on Amazon.ca and a 20 pack of the Nordlock washers ranges from $15-27 depending on the size and vendor.
Not finding them on Amazon.ca but I'll look more locally... think I need to do more on the rest of my bolt together frame as well.

Thanks.
 
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Just finished this conversion. Materials continue to skyrocket so prices will continue to climb at an alarming rate. Order soon or pay more later.
 

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Got this baby a few years back. Drove it for a couple thousand miles before knowing that it was straight welded to the rear hangers and essentially had zero suspensions.

I cleaned it up a little, replaced the deck, modified some steel and added a roller and winch. She tows a lot better now and the winch/roller combo really made loading and unloading way easier
65328
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This is the classic Harbor Freight 4x8 budget utility trailer kit.
It's a flatbed! It's a wagon! It's a raft trailer! It's a camping trailer with a rooftop tent!
For easier condo storage, it is totally modular.
I added stabilizers, a spare tire mount, light guard housings, upgraded bearings, high speed radial tires, coated wooden deck and side rails, raft platform, cross bars, and a trailer jack.
Not bad for around $800 into it. Unless you count my labor... which would then make it $3,700. :)
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Picked up 12x8 utility trailer for a steal and took off the rear gate. Counter sunk and thru bolted 2"x10" PT boards on each side (x2) and lag bolted 2x4 on back all using 3/8" bolts. Used galvanized bolts/split lock washers on the bottom, since I couldn't find the Nylocks at Depot. Will probably upgrade to nordlocks or nylocks eventually.

Found these conveyor rollers on amazon since Northern Tool is backordered. Thru bolted them on with 1/4" bolts. The conveyors make loading up the boat a cinch. 250lb capacity on each...will update if I have any capacity issues, but so far so good.

Any ideas on closing off the front/sides/back?
 

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Anti-porn.

Got a few trips coming up, I sat this weekend out and gave the boat and trailer a quick look.

67667


Really bummed that the tire is only a year old and now ruined. Really glad I found it at home and not on the way into Sand Wash. Gonna do both sides, as it appears the lower two springs were broken long before the final one.
I was told this is a good time to add trailer brakes. Break Out Another Thousand.
 

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Added a winch to the front of my trailer. Not sure why I didn't already do that LONG ago (raft wasn't that awful to load with a roller but without a winch...dory was definitely a pain). Have had the trailer for 10 years, the winch has been on my shop floor at least 3 years. Bought a new strap for it, cut up and burned in some scrap steel Friday, used it Saturday.

68270


Added a backup light and LED bullet corner marker lights a couple weeks ago. Those LED corner lights are about $1/ea on Amazon...cheaper than replacing your incandescent bulbs!
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Figured I would show this bad boy off... rollers are whitewater worthy but I built my own inserts for the stake bed pockets.

Trailer is a big tex 24' 14OT has full hydraulic tilt, 13k winch

Kinda fancy....
 

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That's sick. I could imagine not wanting to hand load a snout like that!!!

How's the line speed on that winch? the synthetic cable is a great idea.
What's the reason for the truncated cones on the tubes?
 
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Figured I would show this bad boy off... rollers are whitewater worthy but I built my own inserts for the stake bed pockets.

Trailer is a big tex 24' 14OT has full hydraulic tilt, 13k winch

Kinda fancy....
Well done sir!!! Nice build. Now we want to see launch vids.
 
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That's sick. I could imagine not wanting to hand load a snout like that!!!

How's the line speed on that winch? the synthetic cable is a great idea.
What's the reason for the truncated cones on the tubes?
the line speed is pretty quick at lower loads its specs are on harbor freight website, its actually a 12k lb not 13k

the nose cones are just for rub protection, these pontoons were designed to be tied to the wall in Glenn Canyon, so the goofy caps are just sacrificial material. they don't normally look like the tube is stuffed in there.


Well done sir!!! Nice build. Now we want to see launch vids.
it loaded onto the trailer really nice, cant wait to get it on the water myself... will probably be ordering 3 more sets of roller inserts from you this winter. really are an awesome product

to anyone who is thinking of doing rollers, the whitewater worthy rollers are by far the best thing out there and are reasonably priced for a DIY job
 
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