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Tomrefried,



I'd love to see a few details. I'm also currious as to the power of the gas struts? It seems they're rated in pounds of lift. I looked them up and there are lots of options all the way to 350 lbs of lift/cylinder. My fear if I over do it would be closing the thing with no boat on it. Is that difficult with your trailer?
Or.....if you lift so much weight I could actually see the trailer flipping over. Even if it was still hitched, the ball is not intended to take torque in that direction.
 

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Or.....if you lift so much weight I could actually see the trailer flipping over. Even if it was still hitched, the ball is not intended to take torque in that direction.
Only the deck lifts to the side, the box stays flat so it's only lifting the boat (150 lbs. + frame) and the deck (very heavy). If I want to tilt the trailer to use it at a launching ramp, I pull a pin and it tilts at the axle to the back (the box and deck together). I have a winch and stand but don't keep it on the trailer, it weighs enough.
I don't remember what struts I used, but they were pretty heavy. I do have to pull the deck down without the boat on it, but it's never opened by itself. I do keep it locked just in case it does try to bounce open on bad roads.
I thought about using a roller on the back, but I've been known to use the braille method backing into my driveways (big trees and poorly placed utility boxes). I think several smaller rollers would work better than one that could bend if hit, or just a PVC pipe over an Iron pipe, cheap and easily replaceable.
 

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Only the deck lifts to the side, the box stays flat so it's only lifting the boat (150 lbs. + frame) and the deck (very heavy). If I want to tilt the trailer to use it at a launching ramp, I pull a pin and it tilts at the axle to the back (the box and deck together). I have a winch and stand but don't keep it on the trailer, it weighs enough.
I don't remember what struts I used, but they were pretty heavy. I do have to pull the deck down without the boat on it, but it's never opened by itself. I do keep it locked just in case it does try to bounce open on bad roads.
I thought about using a roller on the back, but I've been known to use the braille method backing into my driveways (big trees and poorly placed utility boxes). I think several smaller rollers would work better than one that could bend if hit, or just a PVC pipe over an Iron pipe, cheap and easily replaceable.
Right - I completely get that. But there was discussion about how big of a strut you can use and how much weight /could/ be lifted to the side. I just imagine some wahoo making this rig with some overkill struts so it could lift a 16' fully loaded rig...and when they do the whole think flips up on the side :)
 

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interesting...

I just imagine some wahoo making this rig with some overkill struts so it could lift a 16' fully loaded rig...and when they do the whole think flips up on the side
You callin' me a wahoo!!

Just kiddin' and you'd be right too - my main concern is getting it set up to hold the day rigged boat up, but not having to jump up and down on it to get it to close when empty! I figure my raft and frame weigh about 250 - 300 lbs plus the trailer deck at another hundred at least...

So my main question here (not asking anyone in particular, maybe even just myself) is thinking about this as a pivot and the hinges are supporting some of the weight (an ever increasing amount I'd think); how much weight will I need to hold up (how heavy of strut)? or I guess I could build the thing and pick it up, weigh it when it's tipped to where I want it. But I think it'll be much more fun to figure it out...

any ideas, would I need to hold half the weight? Maybe 3/4? I suppose that will all depend on where the strut is mounted too?
 

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Here's a few more pictures of my trailer.
This is the front hinge, they are about 3" long and welded to the deck and box.


This is the tongue and the tilt pin, The box pivots at the axle when the pin is removed.

It also shows the spare mounted under the box.


The struts are mounted in the center of the box.


I used fender washers on the outside of the box


 

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Thanks! That's very helpfull! I'll give it a go this winter.
 

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My trailer is an old Triton 16 foot V nose snowmobile hauler I converted to carry rafts and cats. It weighs 500 lbs. empty, 905 with cat and frame and no gear. I put on rollers from Northern Tool Company #11295, $63. I switched out the old plywood for 2 x 6 boards and installed Led lighting. It is rated for 2200#’s total weight leaving me with 1300 more pounds of carrying capacity for gear and has a recommended towing tongue weight of 7-10%. I am going to add a hand crank winch this winter so I can load a rigged boat alone. I always travel with my boat rigged and packed with all my gear so additional storage for me is not an issue. If I have the tongue weight correct, you cannot even tell it’s behind you when towing. I have traveled with 2 boats, gear, four people in an extended cab truck for a Salmon River trip without being overloaded.
 

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I saw your post on the other trailer thread. Interesting oar placement. Do you ever have road dust/dirt/funk issues thru the openings in the middle?
Never had a problem, no dirtier or cleaner than anything else on the trailer.
 

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Osprey

It looks like you have some metal cross bars on top of what started as an atv trailer?? How did you attach bars and are they removable?

I like the atv type trailer with room for storage below but also can still be used for dirt bikes and general hauling. Plus bigger tires are nice, I'm a little concerned about longevity of 13" tires on some dedicated raft trailers.
 

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I don’t have any pictures of it opened, but the top is two grids that dissect the trailer lengthwise and are on hinges to open.** The Rapid Rig concept, back it up, dump the boat, move up a couple feet, drop the tailgate and open the two wings to walk in and out of the trailer and load the boat.* Reverse on the way out, it’s slick.** On mine some basic fence gate hardware holds the wings open while loading/unloading. *The wings are removable, the pegs on the wing slide into the hinge holes on the trailer with an opposing peg at the end to hold it in, if that makes sense.*** Or it comes with a crossbar that fixes the wings in an upright position if I needed a tall trailer to haul a bunch of boxes or something.** It’s kind of a jack of all trades.****

*

Mine was built by a fishing guide that came up with the design, he has since sold it to Mirage and they sell them through Cascade.** They probably have more pictures.***
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Mine was built by a fishing guide that came up with the design, he has since sold it to Mirage and they sell them through Cascade.** They probably have more pictures.***
And that's why it looks vaguely familiar to me. I've stared at Cascade's catalog enough I should've seen it sooner. I think their newer ones have rounded corners and some diamond plate.
 

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Yeah, seems like they put them on sale once a year but still. When i saw mine pop up used a few years ago i knew i had to jump on it. I still can't believe the new ones don't have a winch.
 

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trailer porn

.

three sections of motorized conveyor, bobbed one on an angle and welded it to the back end of the other two. Removed about 70% of the rollers for weight saving. bolted it right on top of my drift boat trailer and away we go. last to arrive at the launch- first one ready. one man loading at the take out. Civilized....
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
three sections of motorized conveyor, bobbed one on an angle and welded it to the back end of the other two. Removed about 70% of the rollers for weight saving. bolted it right on top of my drift boat trailer and away we go. last to arrive at the launch- first one ready. one man loading at the take out. Civilized....
Very nice! What kind of bag(s) are on the front of your boat? Look very appealing.
 

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Barney Bag- made somewhere near Portland, OR- they are the bomb, throw it in, zip it shut and the whole enchilada straps down. nets are for fishin!
 
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