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Trailer Porn

352766 Views 526 Replies 149 Participants Last post by  MT4Runner
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And so it begins!

Mine's a custom job. An old bass boat trailer stripped down, rebuilt with angle iron, treated 1x4's in the floor, and boat deck built on top with two 2x10's(not treated and need to replace). New 2500'b axle with 15in tires. No clue on weight, but pulls smoothly at up to 80-85mph. Boat deck is just high enough to slide coolers, dry box, and tubs underneath; but not too tall that I have wind drag on the top. Each deck board has rollers on the back, but they haven't been as useful as I thought.

And yes, those are trucker mudflaps. They help keep the muck out of the gear on the trailer, and prevent the rocks from ricocheting back into the car(shattered a rear window on good ole Trough Rd).

Enjoy.

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I would love to move the axle back a bit or extend the tongue and get tail lights with backup lights, but I’m stoked on being able to load and unload solo. Not really using the under deck storage. 14" long ball mount so the tailgate will clear the winch. 3500 lb ez-lube axles and fresh tires.

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Clearing the tailgate with the winch/jack handle is a game changer.

Current taillights LED's? If not, then replace with the integral lights. If so, just buy white LED ovals and cut them in next to the ones you already have. Single color are a lot less $ than the combos.
I plan to add a single white LED backup light in each of my trailers...on the left side only; right side "can't see for shit because objects are closer than they are" mirror is useless.
Current tail lights are standard square incandescent with the 2" centered studs. They are a little hidden by the decking so I was thinking about rewiring and moving them to the back-most part of the trailer. There isn't really space to cut integral ones into the current framing, but I could get some thin plate steel, weld it onto the back, cut holes, and drop them in.

I was looking at these combos, but at $40 per side, yeesh.
Gotta change the pigtail from 4 wire to 7 blade, too.

Edit to add: these don't mention IP67 or being submersible, but the price is considerably better.
No trailer brakes and I don't want a hot 12v pigtail beyond the tow vehicle connection so I'm going to go with 14/5 if I can find it. Otherwise I'll get the 14/6 and leave one without a terminal.

The decking blocks the tail lights if you're closer than 30 feet or so to the back of the trailer. I'd really like to do it, but, you know, time & money.

What're y'all using for waterproof tap splices? Dielectric grease and call it good? Any reason to go with a junction box if I'm really only tapping 3x for marker lights and 1x for reverse lights?
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Put flares from the main part of the trailer to the fender covers, installed clearance lights, move the tail lights back so they're recessed maybe an inch now. New lights are taller and don't fit a full sized license plate well. New conductors all around and a 7 blade pigtail with a junction box. I'm not thrilled with the regular tap splices to link in all the running lights.

Not enough chain for a 14" ball mount so I replaced those with longer ones that have spring latches.

First time really welding. Some turned out alright. Some were terrible.

Can't say you didn't see me now. They're borderline too bright.
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Anti-porn.

Got a few trips coming up, I sat this weekend out and gave the boat and trailer a quick look.

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Really bummed that the tire is only a year old and now ruined. Really glad I found it at home and not on the way into Sand Wash. Gonna do both sides, as it appears the lower two springs were broken long before the final one.
I was told this is a good time to add trailer brakes. Break Out Another Thousand.
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Im generally getting to the boat ramp at night after work to rig then finding a campsite or parking spot for launch the following morning. I find the reverse lights very useful.
Spare $4,000, spare $40,000, what’s the difference? I maintain, y’all are always trying to get me to spend more money.
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Got a few birds stoned this weekend.. and it’s hardly even the weekend!

I was always tripping over my spare tire and having some tongue weight issues. Also the winch I had (1200# Reese) felt a little underpowered. Turns out they’re rated by empty drum and full drum, and always advertised at empty capacity. Full drum rating is 750#.

I welded a 1/4” x 1-1/2” flat bar across the winch mount and some all thread to that. Made a spare tire carrier and moved that weight forward to help the tongue weight issue.

Also got a 3200# 2 speed Fulton winch to replace the Reese. My Reese winch handle would interfere with the winch tower braces as well and this solved that issue.

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Tell me more about your roller system?
20 poly rollers on a steel axle bough from a buzz ad.
Two bigger metal rollers behind those
A smaller diameter full width roller across the back.

They work well.
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Driving to Lodore last week I got stuck on an icy hill. Rather than taking an out of control Subaru into my driver door, I slammed it in reverse and jackknifed the trailer off the road. That guy missed me by a couple inches at best. The trucker who slid off the road next to me said “hey I’m hauling toilet paper if you need any”.

The RAV4 chains didn’t quite work for my truck - the cam straps were rubbing on my brake lines. Abort.

Not sure if it was that or the driving like an asshole to the put in now that I was two hours off the back that blew my leaf pack again. Sorry & thanks to your crew @melmorr for limping me to the takeout.

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Thanks to RiverBetty for the tools and spare bits in Jensen to get us back to SLC in a slightly safer manner.

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anyways..

upon further inspection, 10/14 of the uprights holding the top rail onto the deck had significant cracking in them.

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Two years ago I rolled over a Boulder on the Rainbow Park boat ramp and bent some frame members..

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Time for an overhaul. Except the ski area is going to winter schedule tomorrow so I had exactly 72 hours before I lose access to shop space until May.

Pull the upper deck.
Pull the lower deckboards
Cut out the bent frame members
Sister up some 1/4” angle to the cracking uprights
Paint the frame
New lower deckboards, stained.
New conduit and conductors.
Oh an new suspension. Went with the 2400# leafs instead of the 1750# even tho it’s a 3500# axle. New shackle links, too, bc the old ones were so wallered out. Friday worked 8a-1a, Saturday 8a-4a, Sunday 10a-10p.
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Tucked away and ready to hibernate until May.

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I should start tracking mileage of my trailer. I bet I did 10k miles minimum since I broke my last spring pack.

I got 44 days on the water this year. Call it an average of 2.5 days/trip and 600 miles per trip.. yeah that’s just over 10k miles.

@Electric-Mayhem I’m glad I didn’t have to text InReach-Zoleo to tell you I was headed to the hospital and bailing on the trip.
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Hopefully the wings were off because it was cheaper than the ferry flight.
Luckily the Alder bush kept it out of the Minam River. This one got the engine flown out, rebuilt, reinstalled on site, and was able to fly out without any airframe work.



This one wasn't so lucky.





I had another buddy with an engine failure, landed back on the lake with skis, had a couple icefisherman tow him to the marina with their quads, and he got to trailer home. He now owns the first outfitter I worked for.

I think this thread is starting to drift..
Anyways.. 30-40" expected here in the next 4 days.
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Just repacked my bearings.
Follow me for more rafting tips!

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I've always wondered how to pack bearings. Thanks for the tip.
I’ll be up in the Alta cat shop doing another set tonight. Stop by.
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MLK weekend is a hopeful but realistic time.
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