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And so it begins!

Mine's a custom job. An old bass boat trailer stripped down, rebuilt with angle iron, treated 1x4's in the floor, and boat deck built on top with two 2x10's(not treated and need to replace). New 2500'b axle with 15in tires. No clue on weight, but pulls smoothly at up to 80-85mph. Boat deck is just high enough to slide coolers, dry box, and tubs underneath; but not too tall that I have wind drag on the top. Each deck board has rollers on the back, but they haven't been as useful as I thought.

And yes, those are trucker mudflaps. They help keep the muck out of the gear on the trailer, and prevent the rocks from ricocheting back into the car(shattered a rear window on good ole Trough Rd).

Enjoy.
 

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bring on the porn!

And yes, those are trucker mudflaps
Though it might defeat the purpose I think you should add some of those chrome "trucker ladies" to yer flaps!

here's my trailer (no good pics, never thought it necessary to take a picture of my trailer alone...till now.)
Vehicle Water transportation Boat Speedboat Watercraft


It's an old locally built utilitiy trailer built up with 2x4's so the boat sits at the same level as the wheel wells. I fabed a roller and winch stand a few years ago and it works really well. The 2x framing is now starting to come apart and I plan on replaceing it all with angle iron and plywood decking this winter. I also need to make it longer and wider (the deck) to accomodate a new bigger boat. I have lot's of ideas but can't wait to see what all the buzzards have thought up over the years!
 

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I'll play.....copying this from the other trailer thread.

I'm pretty happy with my trailer, although I'd like to add a roller bar. Mine is a 9.5 X 6.5 ECHO ATV trailer. My 14 ft. catarafts have fit really nice on it. A 14 ft. raft should work as well. With the cats, I could store stuff between the tubes on the deck. Don't think that will work with a raft. The trailer came with a metal texturized floor with gaps. The gaps allowed for quick draining when I backed into the water to unload/load. But the texture stuff was bad for the boat and the gaps make for ankle breakers when walking around on the trailer deck. I covered the deck with plywood, sealed it, and covered it with indoor/outdoor carpet. The best thing that we did with the trailer was add stake pockets all around and had metal mesh side panels made (two panels on each side, one front and back). They are two ft. high, and are super easy to put on & take off. This turns the trailer from a "flatbed" with the boat rigged & ready, into a long distance trip gear hauler. Also great for at home hauling needs. Except for a rear roller bar, I can't think of anything I'd change on my trailer.

Here's some pics of the trailer when I first got it. You can see the open deck. The sides flair out and the cats snuggle right between or on top of them. The stake pockets and side panels are around the deck, so inside of those flaired out sides. With the side panels on, I can still strap oars along the sides, between the panels and the side rails. That works really nicely. I wish I had some pictures with the sides on. All around a pretty decent small/medium trailer.
 

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I also had put something up somewhere else. I know lots of people have dis'd Harbour Freight Trailers. However, I picked up a 1800 lb capacity trailer from them for $350. (old gentleman in store said "pssst kid, wanta coupon...here's one for 20% off the sale price").

For that price I could just about throw it away if it dies. Had to put it together, and order new bearing seals since the chinese didn't bother cleaning the hubs when they greased it so had to completely redo them. Still it was a good price.

I put an exterior plywood deck on it and a 1x12 box frame braced with 2x4's at the corners. Half the box is enclosed with a locking back door, the front half is open to haul gear. (If I had this to do over, I would have reversed this arrangement and put the box in front with a side door. Would have give me better tongue weight. Painted the whole thing with Spar varnish - I am replacing this on the rails with outdoor carpeting because I don't think this is good for the raft where it rubs.

I used 3 galvanized fence posts across the box (over the 2x4 braces) to build rails and placed 2 2x6 x 8' boards on top. The raft sits perfectly on this arrangement and gives me all kinds of room to haul gear underneath.

The one caveat I have for this arrangment is that I have 12' raft so its not this monster that will overlaod the trailer. You can overload it though. We put two rafts, frames and Misc on it to go to the Salmon and found it was way too much weight. (if I ever move up in size, I will probably buy a better, heavier duty rig. Hope this helps someone trying to get by on a shoestring.

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Here is a link to information about our trailer rollers

Metal Works
Hey, I really like that PVC case you have for your sand stake. Do you sell those? Or that might be a good winter project. How do you attach the straps?
 

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The straps go through two sets of routered slots. They are easy to make your self but I'd be happy to make one for you. The shipping would make it expensive, or come out for a rogue or Illinois trip and pick it up. Contact me directly at [email protected] and I'll help you any way I can.
Thanks. I wish I was close by. I might try to make one myself first and see how it goes???
 

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Here's my converted snowmobile trailer (and 14' NRS), It has an 8' x 9' 3/4" painted plywood deck over a 6' x 8' box that lifts with the help of two gas struts. The spare is under the box, and the front box gets used for firewood, grills and other stuff that isn't used very often. It's still using leaf springs and the 10" wheels (10 ply tires) and they've never given me any problems. I thought about putting a roller on the back, but I tried using a piece of PVC over the edge of the plywood deck and I think the boat slides over it as well as it rolls on a roller.



 

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That's what I'm talking about

tomrefried,

That's the kind of ideas I've been looking for! Not that the Millennium Falcon isn't sweet...

Those struts must not hold that thing up while loaded do they? or is it somewhat balanced? What sort of hinge arrangement do you have? Your likely to see me copy some of that this winter (if you don't mind of course?). I've had similar ideas with the top opening backward but only while empty. That opens up a whole new group of ideas...
 

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tomrefried,

That's the kind of ideas I've been looking for! Not that the Millennium Falcon isn't sweet...

Those struts must not hold that thing up while loaded do they? or is it somewhat balanced? What sort of hinge arrangement do you have? Your likely to see me copy some of that this winter (if you don't mind of course?). I've had similar ideas with the top opening backward but only while empty. That opens up a whole new group of ideas...
The struts will hold the boat up with the frame, oars, and other stuff for a day trip, the loaded cooler has to ride in the back of the car but it's not that big of a deal everything else fits in the trailer. The hinges are welded to the box and deck making the deck non removable but it does have stake pockets (that I've never cut out) if I ever have to use it as a utility trailer. It still tilts if I ever wanted to use it at a ramp. I'll take some detailed pictures later today. The trailer came with my boat when I bought it, It was a pile of parts, but the guy said he'd build what I wanted. It took a couple months and trips to check on it and I finally made it towable myself and took it home (It was Tieton season so I didn't mind the drives). I think it came out pretty good.
 

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Tomrefried,

I'll take some detailed pictures later today.
I'd love to see a few details. I'm also currious as to the power of the gas struts? It seems they're rated in pounds of lift. I looked them up and there are lots of options all the way to 350 lbs of lift/cylinder. My fear if I over do it would be closing the thing with no boat on it. Is that difficult with your trailer?
 
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