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I've used duraslat for beaver tails and in drop bags. Works great and is cheap. Not sure how solid it would be in a cockpit, might have to run webbing under the middle of it to help support it. Dunno, for $20 you can experiment. Use a circular saw, cuts like butter. Murdochs usually has it.
 

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I've used duraslat for beaver tails and in drop bags. Works great and is cheap. Not sure how solid it would be in a cockpit, might have to run webbing under the middle of it to help support it. Dunno, for $20 you can experiment. Use a circular saw, cuts like butter. Murdochs usually has it.
Good point. It's so cheap it can't hurt to give it a try I suppose. I might use a butane torch to melt the edges a bit and make them less pokey.
 

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They’re pretty smooth when you cut them. I didn’t find the need but no harm in trying. I’ve been running It in the bottom of my everything and drop bags for probably 1k miles and haven’t seen any issues.
 

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For those contemplating marine vs cdx vs underlayment.
Cdx is the bottom of the barrel grade. Inner cores have a lot of edge and inner voids to trap water. C face, D back and X core. If it's 5 ply it may have 1 D center and 2 X cores. You'd be surprised at the crap cores that get layed up in CDX.
Underlayment has fewer voids. May have solid knots in the core. Allowable edge voids are much less than CDX. The voids are usually removed from the face by plugging. I don't recall the number but your limited to the number of plugs that can be on a face. Keeps high heeled shoes from poking a hole through a knot. Not a big worry on a raft.
Marine grade usually has more but thinner layers and a clear face and back. Very few if any edge voids.
Bottom line it is the number of voids and not the strength that makes marine better for wet applications. Although more thinner layers are stronger.
I wouldn't use CDX on anything exposed to elements. Underlayment is fine if you seal all the edges and exterior voids. Marine grade still needs sealed but it is prettier look if you care about that. Overall I'd choose a good 5-7 ply underlayment and seal any voids and the cheapest and most durable material for a raft.
 

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For those contemplating marine vs cdx vs underlayment.
Cdx is the bottom of the barrel grade. Inner cores have a lot of edge and inner voids to trap water. C face, D back and X core. If it's 5 ply it may have 1 D center and 2 X cores. You'd be surprised at the crap cores that get layed up in CDX.
Underlayment has fewer voids. May have solid knots in the core. Allowable edge voids are much less than CDX. The voids are usually removed from the face by plugging. I don't recall the number but your limited to the number of plugs that can be on a face. Keeps high heeled shoes from poking a hole through a knot. Not a big worry on a raft.
Marine grade usually has more but thinner layers and a clear face and back. Very few if any edge voids.
Bottom line it is the number of voids and not the strength that makes marine better for wet applications. Although more thinner layers are stronger.
I wouldn't use CDX on anything exposed to elements. Underlayment is fine if you seal all the edges and exterior voids. Marine grade still needs sealed but it is prettier look if you care about that. Overall I'd choose a good 5-7 ply underlayment and seal any voids and the cheapest and most durable material for a raft.

That is some very good info to know. Thanks. When you say underlayment, are you referring to something like AdvanTech?
 

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That is some very good info to know. Thanks. When you say underlayment, are you referring to something like AdvanTech?
That stuff looks like strand board. You'd want plywood graded for subfloors or underlayment. B grade faced plywood would work great but it's usually hard to find. AC grades should have C cores and the edge and back voids should be easy to seal.
 
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