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Grass Gas Carbon Auto part Metal

Plant Wood Grass Bumper Automotive exterior

Building my frame -

(1) Wondering for the oar mount base (one side has 3 set screws the other has 2), should the side with 3 set screws go on the pipe for the frame, or on the oar tower? Right now I have the 2 set screw side on the oar tower and the 3 on the pipe.

(2) Do y'all use an anti seize agent (like threadloc) on the set screws? I was thinking of using the weakest threadloc, like the blue kind.

Thanks,
Allie
 

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I would use the 3 set screws on the frame. Unless you want to be moving them a lot I wouldn't bother with the anti seize.
I just set mine to where I want them and crank down hard on the set screws.
 

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Anti-seize and thread locker are two different compounds. I don't use thread locker on my set screws but do use anti seize as you are working with a galvanized set screw and an aluminum fitting + water. I figure it can't hurt other than being a little messy to work with. I use the silver Permatex brand. I also drill my oar stands and fittings for a clinch pin so if the set screws do loosen it won't pop out of the frame fitting. I have never had a problem with cracking although others may feel differentially. I do this on all my frame fittings and think it is especially important on the frame ends as the set screws do loosen over time due to the aluminum extruding from the pressure of the set screws. Just the nature of aluminum, being soft it never stops extruding.
 

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It would appear that the mounts are not located in the same way, in the two photos.
One appears to be inside the raft frame, while the other looks to be outside.
The fitting shown on in the first image looks to be upside down.
Possibly you were trying to show the logo by rotating the fitting,
The flatter portion normally would be on the tube, or the bottom.
 

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Anti Seize never hurt anything, threadlocker like LocTite brand, well let's just say you'll regret it.
 

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Anti-seize and thread locker are two different compounds. I don't use thread locker on my set screws but do use anti seize as you are working with a galvanized set screw and an aluminum fitting + water. I figure it can't hurt other than being a little messy to work with. I use the silver Permatex brand. I also drill my oar stands and fittings for a clinch pin so if the set screws do loosen it won't pop out of the frame fitting. I have never had a problem with cracking although others may feel differentially. I do this on all my frame fittings and think it is especially important on the frame ends as the set screws do loosen over time due to the aluminum extruding from the pressure of the set screws. Just the nature of aluminum, being soft it never stops extruding.
I picked up a AAA frame with the oar tower mount drilled through both tubes. I can see how drilling the frame rail would help, but drilling the tower seems like overkill unless you didn't want to use set screws on the tower.
 

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It would appear that the mounts are not located in the same way, in the two photos.
One appears to be inside the raft frame, while the other looks to be outside.
The fitting shown on in the first image looks to be upside down.
Possibly you were trying to show the logo by rotating the fitting,
The flatter portion normally would be on the tube, or the bottom.
Looks like at least one of the cross fittings doesn't have a flat side. What are those called?
Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Gas Wood stain
 

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Something else is strange. Most people using speed rail fittings for oar mounts are using 1.5" pipe for the frame. That frame rail looks like 1.25". Is anyone making an oar tower out of 1.25" pipe?
 

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You can buy "offset cross" speed rail fittings with one cross in 1.25" and the other cross in 1.5". The problem is that it's hard to find them with the flat part on one side of the 1.5" cross to hold the oar tower. The only ones I've been able to find with the flat part are the fittings from DRE.
 

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Mark shekel who used to own AAA inflatables in Denver made in a quarter speed rail frames for years. Apparently DRE does too nowadays
 

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Asking about the tower pipe. Seems hard to confuse the fitting if the pipe diameters are different. Down River Equipment Down River Oar Tower Oar Towers at Down River Equipment
Yes, and Mark had them cast in 1.25 inch pipe. Before the castings came on the scene, most people would just machine a slug with a 5/8 inch hole in it that fit down inside of the inch and a quarter pipe, an inch and a half pipe for that matter of fact. Most people that build frames for Grand Canyon outfitters they'll do it that way to this day, and it works just fine..
 

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I picked up a AAA frame with the oar tower mount drilled through both tubes. I can see how drilling the frame rail would help, but drilling the tower seems like overkill unless you didn't want to use set screws on the tower.
If you have ever had an oar tower come out of the socket in the middle of a rapid and slide down the oar, drop off and sink you might see the benefit of pining them. I've seen it happen more than once.
 

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If you have ever had an oar tower come out of the socket in the middle of a rapid and slide down the oar, drop off and sink you might see the benefit of pining them. I've seen it happen more than once.
It's a good idea to pin things, speedrail fittings were never intended to build raft frames out of, they're intended use is for handrails.. generally using steel pipe.. building raft frames out of them put stresses on them that was never intended by the manufacturer. Do they work? Most of the time, but the problem with the set screws is getting them tight enough so they don't slip, and won't loosen, and not caving in the soft aluminum pipe underneath them at the same time. Delicate balancing act..
 

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Anti Seize never hurt anything, threadlocker like LocTite brand, well let's just say you'll regret it.

Why? Is it because of what dsrtrat referred to when he said something like aluminum doesn't stop extruding?

If anything you won't lose set screws with thread locker, think washboards with the frame on a trailer. Even bolts with red loctite applied are easy to loosen with heat as I'm sure you know...
 

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Why? Is it because of what dsrtrat referred to when he said something like aluminum doesn't stop extruding?

If anything you won't lose set screws with thread locker, think washboards with the frame on a trailer. Even bolts with red loctite applied are easy to loosen with heat as I'm sure you know...
You may not lose them, but when they loosen up and your oar tower folds flat against the side of the raft, while you're still on the water, chances are you're not going to have time to break out the propane torch next to the rubber raft to heat them up to loosen the set screw to retighten it again.. loctite, especially red loctite, is a patently bad idea in my opinion...

I'm not sure what you mean by aluminum doesn't stop extruding? To extrude is the process of forcing metal or other material through a die. Once it has been formed, that's it, it's in it's end state
 

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It's a good idea to pin things, speedrail fittings were never intended to build raft frames out of, they're intended use is for handrails.. generally using steel pipe.. building raft frames out of them put stresses on them that was never intended by the manufacturer. Do they work? Most of the time, but the problem with the set screws is getting them tight enough so they don't slip, and won't loosen, and not caving in the soft aluminum pipe underneath them at the same time. Delicate balancing act..
Seems like using 1.5" pipe would be better with speedrail fittings. Hard to see the advantage of using speedrail over an NRS oar mount with 1.25" pipe frame.
 

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Seems like using 1.5" pipe would be better with speedrail fittings. Hard to see the advantage of using speedrail over an NRS oar mount with 1.25" pipe frame.
In my opinion, both from an engineering and a boating standpoint the NRS low pro fitting is Superior in every way except one to the cast fittings in the end of a piece of pipe. The bonus to having the latter is that you can adjust the height with a hacksaw, the NRS fittings, you deal with the height you bought.. not that big of a deal at the end of the day, but it's about the only bonus that I can see.

The NRS fittings will not cave in your pipe, they don't chew it up, they are infinitely adjustable and you can take them off without disassembling the entire frame, I have seen one bent once, but never seen the casting broken, and I have seen a couple of the castings such as DRE uses break in a flip, I'm sure it encountered a rock, but nonetheless.
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