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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The gunwales are laminated from 1/4 inch plywood strips 1.5 inches tall inner and 2 inches outer. The outer and inner gunwales each have three layers of plywood and the hull for a total thickness of 1.75 inches. The seams are off-set at each lamination by at least 12 inches and butt-jointed. The assembly is first wet out with straight epoxy and then laminated with epoxy and 406 thickener. I typically wait two days to pull off the clamps and do the other side. Next step is to sand, round over the edges, and apply 6oz cloth over the lamination. For attachment points, I oversize drill through the gunwale, fill with thick epoxy and re-drill the hole for 1/4 inch rope tie downs.

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good to see you over here. WBP is good peeps but quieter

I agree on the rocker. Mine has about 6.5 inches bow and stern, and with the short waterline I don’t wish I had more. That 10’ Lil Bastard decked Grand Banks style dory I had for awhile had about 2 inches rocker and was still plenty maneuverable.

your craftsmanship is gorgeous.
I find the '2 strips with spacers' style gunnel on my boat useful for lash points.
I’m a sucker for that style of scuppered gunnels but for me it’s as much about aesthetics anything. They are useful for lash points as well. Laminated are stronger than solid steam bent wood.

It’s my understanding the style started with cedar canvas canoes and there was a gap left at the top where the ribs terminated at the gunnels. When people started building cedar strip canoes, they kept the aesthetic but also for lashpoints or for water to drain out when the boat was inverted for storage boat…or similar when ribbed dories were translated to S&G

I understand that these sell for $6k-9k
 

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The gunwales are laminated from 1/4 inch plywood strips 1.5 inches tall inner and 2 inches outer. The outer and inner gunwales each have three layers of plywood and the hull for a total thickness of 1.75 inches. The seams are off-set at each lamination by at least 12 inches and butt-jointed. The assembly is first wet out with straight epoxy and then laminated with epoxy and 406 thickener. I typically wait two days to pull off the clamps and do the other side. Next step is to sand, round over the edges, and apply 6oz cloth over the lamination. For attachment points, I oversize drill through the gunwale, fill with thick epoxy and re-drill the hole for 1/4 inch rope tie downs.

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Hmmmm… Clamp envy
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hi Shawn,
I also prefer the look of the traditional openings at the gunwale but I sure hate to sand and varnish those areas over the years. It does provide great grab handles and attachment points though. Certainly a lot of trade-offs with the two design strategies. How has the bottom of your small dory been holding up with the 1/4 inch plywood and the cedar bulkheads?
 

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I think gunnel slots as grab handles are dangerous (finger entrapment possibility unless you go LARGE) and will consider narrower slots next time!

The Black Eagle is so lightweight, I’ve taken bumps with it that only scratched and would have gouged the big boat.

will do cedar bulkheads again, no question
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Both gunwales have been laminated and all edges rounded over. Next big process is to fair the deck fiberglass and prep for paint. I also have to order hatch hardware, finish oar lock holders, and build the foot brace. I have not decided on a floor drain or side drain system yet in the foot well. Has anyone experimented with bottom drains recently? Structurally, she is all done!
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She'll draw ~4" empty and 6" with a good overnight load. IMHO floor drains won't work all that great without a raised floor.

I'm half tempted to put a raised floor in mine that is high enough to hold a beer can standing up. I'm 6'-5" and have proportionally long legs and my footwell is almost too deep. (I think I'm right around 18" from floor to deck).

I'd go for side drains...slope to the outside...say 7" at the footwell and 5" up from the chine? You'll be left with 6-7 gal of water to bail.
 

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I like the standard Southcos C5’s but they stick up when unlatched (painful to jam one between your toes) and can get jammed from stuff shifting inside

I think it would be worth considering the rotary draw Southcos
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I like the look of the Perko latches. $32 each but I think they will work well with my gutters. Always hate to drill holes in a perfectly good boat but today was step one of the drain tube install. I started by wrapping a 2.5 inch PVC pipe with 4 layers of 12 oz biax and wrapped that with peel ply. Sanded the PVC with 40 grit first. The pipe acts as a permanent mold for this job. Then I drilled holes and centered the pipe in the cutout with plastic spacers and tacked it in. Next step is to fill in the remaining gaps with 406 thickener and lay up glass on the inside around the pipe. The outside gets a heavy bead of thickened epoxy and then sanded smooth with the hull once all is cured.
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Looked at the Perko web site. Not many details there. Does the cam arm on the back rotate with the outside ring? If so I’d be concerned it will get blocked (even more so than Southco’s) by stuff shifting inside. To build a piece inside, as some of have done with Southco’s, to prevent this would mean something at least a little larger than the diameter of the cam arm arc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I used to glue pvc directly to the hull but had a small leak develop on a powerboat around the joint. The fiberglass bond to the hull is better than the pvc bond so I wrap the pipe first. The final assembly will not allow water intrusion even if the pvc bond fails. One disadvantage is that the pipe is heavy but it can take a beating.

The cam arm does rotate with the ring. The corners of my hatch gutters have the most glass so that is were the latch cams will be placed. I plan to build fiberglass covers to prevent any snags from the interior.

How is your boat coming along? I have not seen any recent posts on your site.
 

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Your side hatches aren't huge. I'd highly recommend a single center latch.

My big boat (32" wide side hatches) have two latches and opening two and closing two each time I grab my camera or a beer is annoying.
I vastly prefer the little boat with a single latch on each side hatch (24" long for reference)
 

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I used to glue pvc directly to the hull but had a small leak develop on a powerboat around the joint. The fiberglass bond to the hull is better than the pvc bond so I wrap the pipe first. The final assembly will not allow water intrusion even if the pvc bond fails. One disadvantage is that the pipe is heavy but it can take a beating.

The cam arm does rotate with the ring. The corners of my hatch gutters have the most glass so that is were the latch cams will be placed. I plan to build fiberglass covers to prevent any snags from the interior.

How is your boat coming along? I have not seen any recent posts on your site.
I'd tend to agree. Epoxy to PVC is good but not completely bombproof. I epoxy my umbrella tubes to the hull, but they're not keeping out water.

I did straight epoxy/glass for my drainage slots. They work great. Wish they were larger volume on my big boat; when I rebuild it, will go more ~1.5" x 3" but will use the same technique.
I used the hockey stick as a form, but didn't leave it in the boat.
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I REALLY like it narrow and slammed up against the bulkhead.
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