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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Single person dory. This is a project that Brad and Andy got me interested in exploring. There are also some other excellent examples being built on this forum. My goal was to put together a dory that would not kill the budget and be fun to run in a variety of conditions from whitewater to fishing in shallow streams, and camping. It was developed using CAD and cut on a CNC router for efficiency and ease of adaptation when I find out how the design can be improved. It is really a long term challenge to dial in a solo dory design with a few parameters. I am at the extreme for rocker (10 inches bow and stern) with this design and will likely decrease that on the next iteration. Sides are 1/4 inch ply and the bottom, bulkheads and decks are 3/8th inch ply. This is a monocoque design with no fasteners. Hopefully this will provide some information for interested builders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Big Splash. I custom made 2 molds for the gutters to fit the boat. The bow and stern hatches are the same and the side hatches are the same size. Fairly simple process to make molds. Trimming the fiberglass hatch is a bit messy but just takes patience and time. The hinges will be gemlux friction hinges and the hatch fasteners will be old school window latches in stainless steel. The deck and hatches will also be covered in SeaDek.
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That is a very common question about the cost to put a boat together. Shawn wrote about this extensively on the forum. I can make an attempt at an answer considering additional variables. It all depends! In my experience, a good percentage of boats that get started are never completed for a variety of reasons. It is human nature to think a job will take a short amount of time. The original estimate typically needs to be doubled or tripled. Remember that bathroom you started to remodel 2 years ago. A fun boat project soon turns into a marathon that takes up valuable space in your garage and may upset your significant other. My point here, your time is valuable. It is often cheaper and less frustrating to purchase a boat from an established builder like Brad or Andy. You may also need to purchase tools and these can add up rapidly. A quality vacuum is essential. Another variable is a collection of boat building materials. For a dory of this size, the materials are not that expensive. I used four sheets of meranti marine 1/4 inch ply, and four sheets of 3/8 inch ply, 5 gallons of epoxy, fiberglass tape and cloth, sandpaper, rollers, mixing cups, chip brushes, paint, hinges, latches, oarlocks, etc. This is by no means an extensive supply list but you get the point. These items can be priced out in your local area for a decently close estimate. You need to go into the process aware of the “other” costs of boatbuilding. However, rowing a boat that you built is very rewarding and a lovely way to spend your time. One boat frequently turns into 3 more after you get the boat building virus. Good luck! I can suggest a few good books if you are interested.
 

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Just out of curiosity, what would a turn key dory from the reputable builders cost? It isn’t as if guys don’t buy other expensive things lol! In fact I’d be willing to buy your little dory ! Lol! On second thought maybe a wooden boats not good for a guy who hits lots of stuff lol
Charlie has been banned from buying any more boats until he proves that he can run one without destroying it…and himself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This group has a nice sense of humor.

The hatch drains have a 1.5 inch bonding area all around the gutter to attach under the deck with epoxy and 406 filler. I have yet to have one delaminate ( I like the nice work you do on your boats Duct Tape).
The PVC pipe holes at the bow and stern are for ropes to go through and create a loop in place of a steel bow eye. I saw this design from an Alaskan builder (Renn Tolman) that put together commercial boats and found that over time, the steel bow eyes would bend and leak with heavy use. I adopted the strategy from him. Essentially a PVC horseshoe that is bonded into the bow and covered with thickened epoxy and glass. The PVC acts as a permanent mold until everything cures and then you snake the rope through the tube and tie it off. Cheap, strong, and simple.

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iam sure it’s obvious to everyone (but me) but this style has no bow post and no frames at all. So the zip ties and pvc pipe just hold it where you want it and the filletts and glass are enough to keep her together?! Is it somewhat flexible or after all the compartment menus and decking is on it stiffens right up? Sorry iam not much of a wood worker!!
 

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This group has a nice sense of humor.

The hatch drains have a 1.5 inch bonding area all around the gutter to attach under the deck with epoxy and 406 filler. I have yet to have one delaminate ( I like the nice work you do on your boats Duct Tape).
The PVC pipe holes at the bow and stern are for ropes to go through and create a loop in place of a steel bow eye. I saw this design from an Alaskan builder (Renn Tolman) that put together commercial boats and found that over time, the steel bow eyes would bend and leak with heavy use. I adopted the strategy from him. Essentially a PVC horseshoe that is bonded into the bow and covered with thickened epoxy and glass. The PVC acts as a permanent mold until everything cures and then you snake the rope through the tube and tie it off. Cheap, strong, and simple.

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Really like your innovation and ingenuity. I love to see and learn new things here and on the Dory FB page. The level of talent is humbling.
jon
 

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I love the lines on that little dory. Bet it floats and bobs like a cork with all that rocker. Will you be adding more to the gunnel? I find the '2 strips with spacers' style gunnel on my boat useful for lash points. A place to store a rod might be useful, is that on the menu? I would love to see it on the water, please send pics.
 
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