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Sometime long ago in another thread on this same topic Iposted this out dated picture of my side rails. I redone them again as I now have a double rail frame. The side rails are made of recycled plastic approximately5/8 of an inch thick. They have served mewell, no maintenance easy to work with. Sorry to say the picture provided is the 1st set. My 2nd set are much better learnedfrom my mistakes. This product is meant tobe used in semi-trailer to protect the walls while loading pallets with forklifts so its tuff. My most recent trip wason the Grant 100 degrees days they held up great!
 

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Is that the grippy urethane-type stuff? How do you like it, or did you just build the decks this winter?

Hey the pictures are of a new winter project, but I had the same stuff on my old AIRE Lion. The decks on that thing where 12' Long and I really liked it. I really don't see myself going in any other direction. they can tint it several differnt colors. I think Behr deckover was the first product like this, but this seems better.

You can use a more aggressive nap roller to add more grit if you want, but i found the medium nap to be just right. you can start with an aggressive roller and then brush it down to your liking also.

Here is a picture of my old cat
 

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I have an Aire Leopard with a modified NRS frame. My frame is ~12' long and I added a 3rd yoke to stiffen it up. My decks are only 8' long and ~12-14"wide. The other 4' of frame are a bay with a drybox and 2 water jugs that lay at an angle and a table that stretches across the full width of the frame up front.

I notched around the NRS LowPros and cut many strap holes. The decks rest on the cross bars and I added a little blocking where the yokes drop down a bit. I attach the decks with three 1' straps and a few loop straps go around the frame bars and the decks. They have never moved on me, but you can loosen the straps if you need to.

I did my 1st set with less expensive with exterior grade 3/4" plywood. I sealed them up with several coast of a water based urethane with a little sand sprinkled on between some the early coats. I wanted to get it dialed before I spent a ~$120/sheet on marine plywood. These lasted 7+ years before they started to degrade. I made a new set last year with marine plywood. If you are worried about moving your bars you can make the LowPro notches a little bigger. I made the slot for my oars about 8" bigger so I can move the oar towers for a shorter/taller rower.

The decks have been great.
 

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Hi bcpnick:

Is that a sling under the rocket boxes? Are they off the floor? And are they held down by other unseen straps?

Thanks
DM
 

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It's just a narrow drop bag, not the Salmon River Sling. I put loop straps across the top of them on the river. I'm getting a new one made for my new raft that's kind of like the salmon river sling with integrated top straps, but a little different.
 

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A friend of mine has the salmon sling and he hates it. The buckles for the cam straps are right at the seam of the bag making them really hard to get to when you're rigging if it's up against other things like a dry box or your gear pile in the back. I think it would be a much better design if they positioned the buckles to rest on top of the rocket boxes. I'm also a little skeptical of having the hanging straps only on each end. I like having straps down the side like a normal drop bag. The one I'm getting made will be like a normal drop bag with a single strap over the top of each rocket box. It gets strapped down even more by stuff I put on top of it so it should be plenty secure.
 

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here's another anti skid option: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-279847-EPOXYShield-Anti-3-4-Ounce/dp/B001005ZY0/ref=asc_df_B001005ZY0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198091577722&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13288540719798852535&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020859&hvtargid=pla-348885270376&psc=1

I've used everything mentioned above, from sand, to walnut shells (was looking for fine walnut when I found this stuff) to Behr Deck-over (thumbs down, didn't stick well, peeled in a year). This oxide is just right for me, like very, very fine sand.... easy on exposed skin but has great traction. Just another option for you folks...

I intended to bolt my side decks down but strapped them temporarily... strapping works fine and is easy to remove. Perhaps someday I'll find the time to work on bolting them down.
 

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For what it's worth, I've done three sets of boards just using spar urethane and I'm totally happy with the level of traction. I've strongly considered adding something in, but I just haven't needed it. It gets wet and muddy and I've never slipped on it or felt like it was slippery enough to warrant something more. And I like the smoothness of not having traction added in when I kneel down on it.
 

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A friend of mine has the salmon sling and he hates it. [snip]I like having straps down the side like a normal drop bag. The one I'm getting made will be like a normal drop bag with a single strap over the top of each rocket box. It gets strapped down even more by stuff I put on top of it so it should be plenty secure.
All of the flaws you mentioned with the Salmon Bag make sense. Can you provide more detail about your custom bag? Is the maker a company? Cost? Do you have a pic or sketch? For me, I'd go with two straps over the top - those boxes can get heavy and in my rig I may not have anything else over the top.

Thanks
DM
 

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Has anyone had luck using 1/2" ply? I have some really pretty veneered 1/2" laying around I was hoping to make some sideboards out of, my main reservation is the span over the captians bay, I'd thought about running some aluminium under there or glueing/ screwing a strip of plywood on end to add some strength.

How much room is wise to leave between the inside of sideboards and coolers/ dry boxes?
 

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All of the flaws you mentioned with the Salmon Bag make sense. Can you provide more detail about your custom bag? Is the maker a company? Cost? Do you have a pic or sketch? For me, I'd go with two straps over the top - those boxes can get heavy and in my rig I may not have anything else over the top.

Thanks
DM
I'm going to order it through Stitches 'n Stuff. I haven't gotten a cost yet but based on the info on their website I figure it'll be around $100-$120. They made some cat floors for me last year and were really great to work with. I'll probably order it and a custom drop bag for my front bay next week once I get a few other things set. I might still do the two straps for each box, or perhaps a long strap that goes from end to end and goes over both boxes in addition to straps going side to side.
 

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How much room is wise to leave between the inside of sideboards and coolers/ dry boxes?
I think it's mostly just personal preference and how far your frame extends over the center of the tubes. I set my frame up to bet a little wider to accommodate wider boards without extending much into the inside of the raft and I think it was about perfect. I wouldn't want it to extend much further in than how I had it. That probably left 4-5" or so between side boards and cooler/drybox. You can see it pretty well in my pics on the first page of this thread.
 
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