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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, anyone ever build a roler to attach to the back of your trailer? if so please give me some ideas would you?
 

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They sell "idlers" for conveyer belts. they come in different sizes. With a small welder they can be attached easily with a couple of brackets. I work at a rock pit so we have extras I am going to put some on my new "old" trailer. Let me scratch my brain and remember where we buy new ones.
 

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I have 3 roller and bracket sets (12 1/2") from harborfreight on the back of my trailer. They work great and are easy to install. This is only the second season I have had them on, but so far they have held up with no issues and make loading our 143D super easy.
 

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aka The Curmudgeon
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I built one (actually a series of 4). I used black iron pipe and elbows that terminate in floor flanges on each side. Over the horizontal iron pipe, I used oversized PVC tubing. I think it was 3/4" iron and 1 1/2" PVC. It works well, is relatively inexpensive, about $100 for all four rollers. I back the whole shebang into the rio at takeout time.
 

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I have 3 roller and bracket sets (12 1/2") from harborfreight on the back of my trailer. They work great and are easy to install. This is only the second season I have had them on, but so far they have held up with no issues and make loading our 143D super easy.

El Chivo,
Do you have a picture, or even better, maybe a part number. The HF website doesn't show them, but I will go into the FC store and ask.
 

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Do a search - I got great info from other posts on this exact topic, full of pics and part #'s and everything you need. This is the first time someone mentioned conveyor idlers though.
 

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I built one (actually a series of 4). I used black iron pipe and elbows that terminate in floor flanges on each side. Over the horizontal iron pipe, I used oversized PVC tubing. I think it was 3/4" iron and 1 1/2" PVC. It works well, is relatively inexpensive, about $100 for all four rollers. I back the whole shebang into the rio at takeout time.
Ditto, except I used 1" galvanized pipe with street elbows into the floor flanges, and 1-1/4" sch 40 PVC. I have one pipe going all the way across the back of my trailer, but cut the PVC into three sections to make straightening the raft easier. Works fantastic and there're no bearings to go bad. Be sure to deburr all the cut pipe ends.
 

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John,
Just did a quick search and couldn't find the big rollers I have, not sure if they discontinued them or not? I did find a smaller roller and bracket like the ones I have. The SKU for these are 30026. They also come up on the first page if you do a search for rollers. Hope this helps, I will try to get a picture up as well at some point.
Cheers
 

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aka The Curmudgeon
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Mine looks like earthNRG's except I built 4 of 'em. On 2 foot centers more or less, makes it easy to move the boat by myself
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Perfect, the pipe worked well, my trailer has metal side about 2 1/2 feet high with a gate the gate folds into the trailer. I did the 3/4 inch galvanized pipe with a PVC over it. I drilled 1 inch holes in a 2x4 baught a few connectors for my 3/4 inch galvanized pipe i used a 2inch ball for a hitch on each end screwing the ball up into the 3/4 inch pipe it made if very secure and stable with the ball. anyway it works perfect for now, next season i will have a welded peace of flat iron and the same gig minus the 2x4 clean it up some. thanks allot
 

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Good point Watermonkey on the no tools, its a snap...

Here are the rollers in action. I can easily hoist the boat on the trailer and then roll it into place.
 

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Plunk your magic twanger!
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I actually bought the Northen Tool rollers for another reason: I found out the hard way that the small, filed down lip of my trailers side rails can cut like a knife. The rollers have very smooth rounded edges and lift Supercat above the sharp corner. I was amazed at how much easier they make loading and unloading as a side benefit.
 

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I created a roller on the back of my raft trailer by using wood closet rod and PVC pipe. I used the largest diameter (1 1/4", I think) closet rod I could find, figuring it would be most durable, and bought PVC pipe to match. The PVC pipe fits over the rod and the PVC pipe rolls while the closet rod does not move. Mounting brackets made from pieces of 2" x 4" attached to the back of the trailer with lag screws. I used a hole saw to make holes for the closet rod drilled a hole in the bracket and closet rod for a set screw on each end. Total cost was about $20. I can add pictures if anyone is interested.

This system has more friction than a system that uses bearings, and probably less durability than one which uses steel instead of wood and PVC. However, it has worked well for me loading and unloading a 13' Riken raft w. NRS frame, and makes a huge difference compared to loading and unloading before I built the roller. I should probably add that my trailer is 6' wide--if I used this system on an 8' wide trailer, there might be some bowing of the closet rod when a larger raft rolls over the roller.
 
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