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Rod tubes quick n EZ

26341 Views 10 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  chiapet74
Looking to quickly make a couple rod tube holders for the new rig. Any one got some simple step by steps for this?

My mind has an idea but as I've looked deeper into the abyss of the internet people love to make things more complicated.

So far I'm thinking:

10ft 1.5" PVC
Cut a line down 3/4 of it.
Double wide cut down 1-2ft of it
Bungee around the reel via holes (somewhere)
Strap it on and go.

Does it get more in depth than this- eventually I guess I can heat and bend to avoid snags but as far as a trip 2 days days from now goes this will work and I can just detach and bend it later... Right?


Thanks. Y'all never fail to let me down!

I'd like to post a pic of the new rig on the other threads I started (to give the kind folks that helped out some instant gratification-and to brag about my first "real" boat) but I can't figure out how to post pix.

I sure can use the search function though- as a few of you know and have stated. Although no matter what you search "raft porn" always shows up. Oh well, no complaints there.

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I used 1.5", but if I had it to do over I'd use 2". Easier to get 2 rods in it if it's 2 inch, one rod on each end. I used para-cord, bungee cord, and carabiners, with holes drilled in the PVC on each end, to hold the rods in place. I'm sure you can figure out some variation on this theme, but if you want i can try and upload pics. Also, I imagine there are better designs out there, but mine works and was under $15 for all the materials.

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I use the gray pvc elections conduit. It is flared on on end. I use 1.5 or 2. I think 1.5. Then I tape on a length of surgical tubing on the flared end to make a loop that will go around the reel and hold the rod snug. The gray conduit comes in 10' lengths and is cheap. Surgical tube can be found at the same store.
Couple things to keep in mind, the diameter needs to be large enough for the stripping guide on your biggest rod and it isn't easy to take the rod out or put back in while in the boat. But it will bend nicely with the shape of your raft. And you can leave the rod in while driving as it is fully protected.

Steve, I found some links to other forums that might be useful.

Raft rod storage ideas | Washington Fly Fishing

Custom made raft rod holder | Washington Fly Fishing

Rafts and rod tubes |

Fly Rod Tube For Raft | Nate O Taylor

As for pictures, best to upload them to a host site like dropbox or flickr and the use the image url here. The button is in the text editor as you create a post. It looks like a yellow square with a mountain.
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You should be well on your way with the info above, the only thing I'll add is I use poly pipe instead of pvc. Black HDPE irrigation pipe, 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" depending on how thick (it's rated by PSI, 300 psi is roughly equivalent to sch 40 pvc and is way over kill...100 psi will work perfectly) You can get it at irrigation supply shops, The box stores usually carry it but not always the bigger stuff (sometimes just 3/4 and 1") It's a bit more expensive and comes in rolls (usually in 100' increments), but it's more flexible and doesn't get brittle when cold or old. I've never seen a pvc rod tube break, but if it did it would be a sharp boat and person poking mess, so I stick with poly pipe.
as for attaching images, here's the FAQ page on the subject: Mountain Buzz - FAQ
I'm sure you can do what you need with their ^ recommendations but I do it differently and though I might offer a different idea.

I was going to build with pvc/poly as well until one day I was sitting in my office and I started thinking about using map tubes like these:
Telescoping Drawing Tubes

#1 I wanted one big enough to hold multiple rods so I wanted a 3" diam. 3" pvc is starts to get a little heavy/ unweildy at that point.

#2 I wanted to make sure I could easily travel on a plane with them. Some airlines have different dimension something adjustable- like a telescoping tube- would allow me to change size based on rod size and carry-on limits.

The only modification I did was to glue a couple tiny plastic stops along the sides to keep it from collapsing past a certain point so it won't crush the rod tips.

Cons: It's not completely rigid, but it still protects well enough so that it won't damage anything (I wouldn't drive a truck over it)....and I strap it down hard against my gear pile. It also won't hold rods with reels on them.

Pros: Lightweight, adjustable, can fit up to 5 rods in it, comes with a shoulder strap...and it cost me $5 and didn't have to do any work

Some thoughts as to why I didn't cut slots in the side for the reels:
-I decided it was more important to keep the elements out. I didn't want water (or dirt, leaves) getting in there and staying there.
-With the reels left on it's an awkward shape that is hard to pack.
-It takes away from the protection (could technically rip a reel off it's bed)
-If you are fishing, it will be out and rigged right? so unless you are doing like an 8ft+ tube, you'll still have to assemble the rod anyways.
-Cutting a slot limits you to one rod and reel
-and maybe most importantly, because I've done it before for fishing rod holders on my boat and inevitably some rods and reels just won't fit that well. I don't know about you but sometimes I spin fish, mostly I fly fish and sometimes someone has a baitcaster and my GF uses a spin caster. All of these have different reel seats and dimensions and no single cut will cover them all....You may say "well I only spin fish" (or something). And I can tell you that all of my spinning combos would require different slots (diff; handles len/shape, spool clearance, neck width, spool shape etc.). Same with the fly rods. If you buy a new rod or reel, it won't fit the same, seriously it's just easier to not have a slot.

I say make it fully enclosed and all about the safe transport....just put the reel on when you are about to fish.
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Here are mine.. kinda like what you described... you want to notch the back so the real can wedge in and not flop side to side..

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I used 2" electrical Conduit and worked with an electrician friend that has conduit heater to soften and bend it. I then cut a slot down the one end (leaving a 2" section to support the reel and bungie holder. Works great and if you are very careful, you can get 2 rods into it.

I bent it to basically fit the curve of my boat to the rear and zip tied it to the tubes.


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get 2", you can fit 2 rods or spey rods. If your notch it correctly theres no need for bungees, tubing, etc, the rods will be held in place. Notch it so its as wide as your reel.
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