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I’m throwing down on an RMR 16’ with a drop stitch floor. Can anyone give me real world rolled dimensions? I know it’s not rubber and won’t get tiny easy bla bla bla. Looking for someone with real world experience. Thanks!
 

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I can tell you that I wasn't able to get it into the bag. Didn't measure the dimensions when I got it rolled, but I wanna say 4'x3'x3'? I also didn't try hard to roll it really tight. I have the room, and figured a loose roll would be better for longevity.
Hope you love it, I am really happy with mine. The drop stitch floor is awesome.
 

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You can vary it quite a bit if you roll it up without folding the tubes to the center. I just vacuum the air out of my 12 footer and fold it rather than roll into a 6 foot by 1 foot by 2 foot package. Fits my storage shelf better. I have folded it into about a 4x2x3 foot package. I find it is easier (still really hard) to fold than roll when by myself. I think 4 x 3 x 3 Senor D stated would very close to a practical rolled size to plan for. I love my drop stitched floor. I run at 3 # and still stable when standing up and I have dry feet. Three pounds gives you a little more flex to slide over a sleeper.
 

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You can vary it quite a bit if you roll it up without folding the tubes to the center. I just vacuum the air out of my 12 footer and fold it rather than roll into a 6 foot by 1 foot by 2 foot package. Fits my storage shelf better. I have folded it into about a 4x2x3 foot package. I find it is easier (still really hard) to fold than roll when by myself. I think 4 x 3 x 3 Senor D stated would very close to a practical rolled size to plan for. I love my drop stitched floor. I run at 3 # and still stable when standing up and I have dry feet. Three pounds gives you a little more flex to slide over a sleeper.
Real world rolled up, my 12' just about fills the back of a Subaru Forester with the seats up. In my golf wagon, it fits sideways with the right side rear seats down.

Loosely rolled in pic below.


58934
 

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I have the same boat. I really enjoy it on the water. I hate dealing with rolling it so I only do it once a year at the end of the season. It's large, heavy and unwieldy. I haven't measured it, but I do sorta get it back in it's storage bag. I'd guess 4 ft x 3 ft x 2 ft?
 

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We’ve got a real world roll for you here! I’d say the roll is a rough 2 1/2’ diameter by maybe 3’ tall (or wide, depending how you place it). She’s a beast! Big tubes, we can carry a lot! That’s a big trailer spare for size reference. I will say it rolls way better in hot weather than cold. This was a pretty good roll for us because it was HoT!!
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Regarding PVC boats being transported without covers: I once had a raft repair guy tell me that half his repairs on PVC boats came from abrasion during transit or handling when the boat was rolled. I've been recommended to wrap my boat in a tarp any time when transporting it rolled. Those corners where the raft's kind of folded are the wear spots. The top photo by mtnstitchworks at about 8 O'clock on the raft shows exactly what I'm talking about, where the tire was rubbing on the corner fold. Think about rubbing against an ammo can or drybox (or a non-slip abrasive bed liner coating) for 500 miles....
 
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You are spot on Andy. Spot on that folded boat that is and your statement in general. And likewise the damage to folded corners on the bottom side of this boat rubbing the floor of the trailer.

I've seen many rafts heavily damage in transit while rolled up. Especially during transits associated with Grand Canyon shuttles when all gear is haphazardly tossed into a pile in a truck.

Several posts on this tread result in a cringe such as spare tire on top of a rolled boat and speaking of rolling a boat tighter when it is warm. Maybe my experience is old school but such things make me think back to visions of lots of destroyed boats.

Another thread showed glue in a floor of an RMR going bad. People pull their glue-up boat onto a hot trailer(180 degrees?) and glued boat floors go bad real fast. What do you expect. Wet and cool down that trailer I suggest before pulling a boat onto it.

Likewise, rolling a warm boat tighter was a recipe for pulling apart glue-up boats(old Maravia's).

Let it be said, RMR do not roll up small. Especially a 16' drop stitch floor. They are made of thick PVC and are very durable. It is a boat I would certainly consider on a budget, but owning one without a trailer to hall it inflated/deflated is difficult (to say it kindly). And, owning a trailer can be a budget/space buster.
 

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^^^ I'm the one who posted about the RMR bottom/floor issues but that had zero to do with rolling, I don't trailer my boat, and it never gets that hot in Canada.

Though I do wrap my boat in a heavy tarp for transport.
 

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Hi cupido76,

It is good to know that in your case the problem was not a hot trailer.

Actually, I admit, the bit about a hot trailer is just speculation on my part concerning issues I've seen in the past regarding floors unglueing. It is not like I've eyeballed it happening. Let's just say I've seen people pull boats onto trailers that were to hot to stand on barefoot, followed by a PRV valve releasing and tubes being tighter than a drum. The bells just went off in my head wondering what the stresses must be like when a boat is near exploding at the seams when sitting on a trailer surface approaching the release temperature of glues.

Your pictures of your floor glue release just reminded me of possible problems caused by the situation described above. And since this thread brought up damage to tubes in transit I just thought I'd mention it.
 

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Regarding PVC boats being transported without covers: I once had a raft repair guy tell me that half his repairs on PVC boats came from abrasion during transit or handling when the boat was rolled. I've been recommended to wrap my boat in a tarp any time when transporting it rolled. Those corners where the raft's kind of folded are the wear spots. The top photo by mtnstitchworks at about 8 O'clock on the raft shows exactly what I'm talking about, where the tire was rubbing on the corner fold. Think about rubbing against an ammo can or drybox (or a non-slip abrasive bed liner coating) for 500 miles....
I hear you & agree. In an ideal world that cover would on. Will consider your comments in the future. Thanks!
 

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We’ve got a real world roll for you here! I’d say the roll is a rough 2 1/2’ diameter by maybe 3’ tall (or wide, depending how you place it). She’s a beast! Big tubes, we can carry a lot! That’s a big trailer spare for size reference. I will say it rolls way better in hot weather than cold. This was a pretty good roll for us because it was HoT!!
View attachment 59143 View attachment 59144

A little off topic but.... A couple things to learn from this picture for the owner and the rest of you. This is a bad way to transport a boat. A very solid percentage of boats in the shop are from transport. The top picture shows a great example in the bottom left side of the boat. See the black crease? The material in that spot ( and others) is really stressed and very easy to abrade. That tire rubbing on it for 500 miles could have easy worn through, not just left it black. The opposite side of the boat rubbing and vibrating on the gritty/ rough floor of the trailer is a great way to get home/ to the put in with a hole in the boat. Likewise, if it wasn't on end, those same spots rubbing on a rocket box/ side of the trailer etc are also bad news. RMR's come with a bag for a reason, because I told the owner it was a great idea. I always tarp all my boats. I have put holes in plenty of tarps but not through to the raft many times. I am always amazed at how many RMR's I get that people don't use the bag they were given. I got one yesterday that has a hole that is going to be very difficult to patch and was from this exact thing. I'll post a pic here in a bit.
 

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Since we're discussing rolling and boat bags, what's your suggested method for rolling? I use my shop-vac to suck out all the air first. Then I fold the tubes to where they meet in the middle, and roll it. I haven't been able to get it to fit inside the boat bag. I also leave my chicken line on.
anything I am doing wrong?
 

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I haven't been able to get it to fit inside the boat bag. I also leave my chicken line on.
anything I am doing wrong?
The last actual "boat bag" I had was more like a big flat piece of cordura that I'd wrap around the boat and then tie up, not like some kind of oversized duffel bag with an opening at one end.

If you're sucking all the air out with the blower, rolling tight, & putting a strap on the boat but you still can't get it into the bag, then you're using too small a bag. Just get an old tarp big enough to fold over a couple of times so you have several layers wrapped around the boat and secure with a strap or two.

-AH
 
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Since we're discussing rolling and boat bags, what's your suggested method for rolling? I use my shop-vac to suck out all the air first. Then I fold the tubes to where they meet in the middle, and roll it. I haven't been able to get it to fit inside the boat bag. I also leave my chicken line on.
anything I am doing wrong?
I'm certain Senor D that you don't own an AIRE bladder boat. But I just want to confirm that sucking the air out of an AIRE is a bad idea. Can anyone confirm that?
 

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Even though I wrap my boat in a heavy PVC tarp, I experienced my first transportation wound on friday.

Had to pull over 4 times during my day float to top it up. Tear aid didn't really work because the leak is so close to a seam.

Shit can and does happen, but I'll look into a larger and/or heavier tarp to protect it better going forward.
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