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Split it out.

Assume you still have a $5000 cap and $3500 is it’s price.

A good aluminum trailer is worth $1500, ok trailer is $1000 if it needs tires/bearings/lights. Most janky handmade trailers are steel so if it’s aluminum it was likely assembled decently.

Now the rig is worth $2,000.

Is the frame decent? $300. Nice? $5-800

Oars are likely Carlisle’s. $100/ea. They refuse to die.

What is the gear—lifejackets or full on dry boxes/etc?

So we get to the rubber. It’s a bucket. Drier in mellow water and wetter in splashy water.

It’s $1,000. Will you enjoy it until it’s time to replace it? You can always sell a non-leaking boat for $3-500...would you write off $100/year of use? I would.

If YOU like the boat, go for it. If a nagging thought tells you “no” then it probably won’t go away after the purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Or buy J Fred’s 18’ Avon setup https://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104309

It has a beauty bomber frame, nice oars, and a drybox. The rubber is practically free, and it’s a self-bailer.

Use your savings and buy a trailer. Invite your kids’ friends and parents. Go boating.
Thanks. I was looking at Fred's but it's an 18' boat. I'll wrestle and wrangle more weight than I should and then complain about my back for a week afterwards, but my wife is 5'5" and 110 and she's still learning the "you don't just drop things when you're tire or sore, you have to at least let the m'fer holding onto to the other side you're going to drop it" Lesson so I'm a bit hesitant about an 18' boat. Granted the Campways is a 17' boat so I'm within a range.

The trailer with the campways is basic flat aluminum tilt bed so that would definitely come in handy. My alternative right now is an old boat style trailer I've strapped some 3/4" plyboard on top of and it isn't titled so a trailer will be on my list sooner rather than later (this one is enough to get me to Delta CO and then to pick up at Whitewater where I'll spend a few weekends getting used to paddling again before bringing the family along).

Looks like a decent frame and does have thwarts (many of the geared out boats in my price range don't have thwarts anymore). I want to be able to take some friends just straight rafting at some point. Carlisle oars, frame sides (whatever they are that sit on the frame and you can walk on), no dry box or cooler but I have about 5 coolers I've collected. A dry box would be a must.


Fred's does have the retrofitted bailing floor which is nice, but doesn't have the aluminum tilt trailer, which for the $3500 other one is a heck of a deal (and really the main reason I'm considering it. I 'd have to look long an hard to find a similar trailer for $1500).
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Also if anyone's interested in the Cheyenne, WY Facebook marketplace there is a complete package of 12' and 15' Avon rafts with an Alumina raft trailer for $2500. Not mine, just saw it listed.
 

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I think you're looking at that package rationally and with good reasons.

And worth offering $3,000-3,200 CASH. If they don't bite, still worth $3,500.


It's a ton of fun to go out paddleboating with a crew of adults who are willing to get wet. You'll learn a lot about reading water, communicating with your crew, planning ahead, etc. go find some Class II or easy Class III and do stupid stuff...splat smooth rocks, crash easy holes, surf waves, etc.

Check raft companies for used paddles. I picked mine all up for $9-15/ea.
 

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I know I'm biased but I'd still go with the Rogue. It comes with 4 Sawyer Polecat oars,straps ,drop bags for the cooler and under the front bay. I only used the boat a couple of seasons so the decks should be in great shape still. Also has a beaver board with DRE king sling gear cover and a floor for the rowers bay. I built the frame to be pretty universal and it should fit a lot of other 16ft boats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I know I'm biased but I'd still go with the Rogue. It comes with 4 Sawyer Polecat oars,straps ,drop bags for the cooler and under the front bay. I only used the boat a couple of seasons so the decks should be in great shape still. Also has a beaver board with DRE king sling gear cover and a floor for the rowers bay. I built the frame to be pretty universal and it should fit a lot of other 16ft boats.
The only reason I haven’t jumped on it is the lack of thwarts. I’d really like a boat I can do it all in. It’s on the list I’m making pros and cons while still looking at what pops up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
AIRE 143 D just popped up with " Blown floor I-beam but floats/bails/tracks just fine." Has rack and all associated stuff with it.

Is a blown I beam bad? Can it be fixed? Does it need to be?
 

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AIRE 143 D just popped up with " Blown floor I-beam but floats/bails/tracks just fine." Has rack and all associated stuff with it.

Is a blown I beam bad? Can it be fixed? Does it need to be?
Not really.

Aires have an inner bladder, you'll just have that inner blowing your floor a little more "voluminously" than factory.


Might hold a lot more water if it's the open pocket floor. Sort of a non-issue if it's a Sealed Pocket Floor. Speaking of which, buddy of mine has a 143D with the SPF and thought it had a blown Ibeam. Aire sent a new one under warranty. Still odd floor fit. Turns out both the new and replacement floors were for a 143R and fit the 143D outer shell funny and caused the bulge. 3rd floor was the correct 143D bladder and it fit fine.


Odd that it would blow a baffle as they have a built-in pressure relief valve.


Run it as-is, or you can replace the bladder for $400-500.

143 is a fun mid-size boat. Wider than a Puma, narrower than an R-series or 14' Trib. It will be a wetter ride for passengers as an oar boat, but is a crazy fun, nimble paddleboat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Made a trip from 0530 to 1930 to pick up the raft. Full kit, boxes, PFDs, oars, etc etc with a much better trailer than my "plywood strapped onto an old boat trailer" method I was going to use for awhile.

Got home last night after spending 13 hours in the truck (1 hour to get the boat) and stripped it completely down to wash and clean it and put it back together.

Floor does have a bulge in one side, but it will do for awhile until I can source a new bladder. The pocket is new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Now we need to see some pictures!!
I'll get some once I put it back together. Took it apart for a scrub and wash. The top is pretty sun faded so I'm going to do the wearpad treatment around it. Thought of doing the System 6 but to do the whole boat would cost me another half a grand and I think that just getting some of the wear points covered will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Finally got it cleaned up and here are some pictures.

Outside on trailer is how I picked it up. Very very dirty, oxidation, etc etc etc. did a huge round of cleaning.
1: soap and water.
2: inflatable boat cleaner with scrub brush.
3: rinse.
4: MEK alternative and acetone on localized areas.
5: boat cleaner spray again to remove any chemicals
6: 303


I have a pressure gauge but I blow up the raft and it seems ver very firm but the gauge isn’t registering. It seems like it’s working. Is 2.5psi tighter than I think it should be?

Waiting on the Bimini to come in and rig it up then will figure where to put my ammo cans. Likely ditch the second dry box except for multi day trips and stick the cooler in it’s place.

Up front is a beaver tail but I have a folding table that fits there too so that worked out.

There are some cracks in the PVC and I plan to do some creative brush on wear pads on the sides under the frame and a couple spots on the bow and stern where the cracking is the worst - can you sit on the brush on wear pads or are they solely for under gear frames? I’m talking about the wear pads from Man of Rubber.
 

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