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817 Posts
It would probably fit a 156r if you have 1-1/4” pipe. I’d rather try and sell the two as a package first, though. @BGillespie might be able to build you a transom that you could pick up on the way.
Raft Porn Needed -Let's see them rigs!!!
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245 Posts
I'm in Salt Lake, interested in transom and Merc - hit me up when you get back from the Yampa - ya lucky bastards...
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186 Posts
Cross post
![Hood Wood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Naval architecture]()
![Naval architecture Wood Watercraft Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Automotive exterior]()
Ladies, Gentlemen, and River rats, I present to you my dream boat: The Sockdolager:
![Sky Watercraft Boat Water White]()
This boat is a raft guide’s dream build. The dream began when I was recovering from ACL surgery in the Winter of 2017. It started with the rubber. I wanted a super light boat for Alaskan fly-out trips. I wanted a boat that was big enough for month-long trips and gear hauling, but small enough to fit in the tail of a super-cub. It also needed to be tough enough for harsh, remote conditions. I decided on a urethane boat from SOTAR, a custom frame fabricated by my local rafting guru, and accessories from NRS, DRE, Stitches-n-stuff, plus a few DIY items.
The raft being born on the factory floor in Merlin, OR.
The DIY Front hatch/table, Captain's Bay featuring DIY floor and converted 20mm ammo cans, and the cooler/seat bay.
Captain's Bay with a view of the custom floor and Captain's boxes.
The stern, showing the cargo floor and the 4th bay. The zippered drop bag by Nan is perfect as a day-trip catch-all bag, or for camp gear on multi-days. Long, bulky items (chairs, tents, etc.) and pacos strap down over the drop bag.
-14’ Self-bailing urethane SOTAR Classic ST
-custom dark/light blue color scheme
-custom 2 additional handle/D-Rings dead center on each long tube, and 3 d-rings on the inboard stern tubes for cargo and transom rigging
The Sticks:
-2 – Cataract SGX 10’ oars with Dynelite blades
-2 – Cataract SGG 9’ oars with Duramax blades (spares and for tight rocky stuff)
The Frame:
-Alaska Raft Connection custom 4-bay frame with foot-bar (using NRS lo-pros)
-10” NRS Oar Towers
-Sawyer Cobra Oarlocks
-Engel 123 Deep Blue Cooler in Arctic Blue
The Accessories:
-Custom Jack’s Plastic paco pad sized for the cooler
-Custom Jack’s Plastic paco pad sized for the front hatch
-XL Drop Bag from DRE
-Custom zip-top Drop-Bag from Stitches-N-Stuff
-NRS throw-bag
-NRS bow-line, bag, and perimeter line
-NRS oar leashes
-NRS cargo floor
-many, many cam straps of all sorts
The Motor:
Tohatsu 5hp Sail-Pro Propane powered outboard with 25" long shaft
Custom DIY Accessories:
-20mm Ammo Can Captain’s boxes (excess metal removed for weight savings and ease of access)
-Quick-draw spare oar rings and color-coded spare strap
-Rower’s bay floor with Seadek foam, rigging slots, and two 20mm ammo can spots (¾” marine plywood, spar urethaned, and painted with Petit EZ-Poxy topside paint)
-Twin side panels with Seadek foam and rigging slots (¾” marine plywood, spar urethaned, and painted with Petit EZ-Poxy topside paint)
-Camp Table/Front Hatch cover with collapsible legs and rigging slots (table legs cannabilized from old folding cot and modified, ¾” marine plywood, spar urethaned, and painted with Petit EZ-Poxy topside paint)
The side panels and camp table/hatch cover after initial spar urethane treatment.
Side panels, nice for stepping on or strapping gear to.
The camp table in action.
The Sockdolager sporting her vinyl logo, laden with gear for fall moose hunting/rainbow fishing.
A boy and a boat in their happy place.
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62 Posts
Hahaha, just saw this…I actually work for a craft brewery, sometimes you just have to keep it light on the river, especially when you drink plenty of beer at work! Ha
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107 Posts
I love this! It's different than I would do, but so well thought out and executed for you and your needs! This is exactly the way it should be.
Do you have any more photos/info on how you modified the rocket boxes for captains boxes? Some reduced-weight and easier access boxes sound quite nice.
The one on the left is a normal 20mm can, the one on the right I modified. I used an angle grinder to trim off the locking hinge and trim some metal from the handles.
I added a lid "hinge" by putting two bolts in the lid and running cordelette through a channel on the can. I also trimmed the lid side flanges down, as illustrated above.
Now, the lid is easy to open, the rower just has to loosen two cam buckles to access the contents (I am sure someone will howl about chopping up perfectly good rocket boxes...but you gotta crack some eggs to make an omelette). The goal was to shaved a few pounds (I do a lot of fly-out trips, so every ounce counts) and make the boxes quick and easy to open while rowing.
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1,908 Posts
I like the one sided hinge too! I may try my luck cause I hate having to use two hands and wriggle and blah lol!
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59 Posts
@skiakbc49 If folks are making requests, can you post about the table?
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107 Posts
Thank you!
Sure thing!
I made the table out of 3/4" marine ply, and cut it to fit as a hatch over my front drop bag. I rounded over all the edges with a router and cut out rigging slots. The wood was sanded, treated with spar varnish, then top-coat paint. I found an old cot at the dump and used the aluminum tubing to make nice long legs for the table. A little tinkering and some cotter pins get them to fold up nicely. The fabric from the cot got repurposed into a bag for the pump.
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339 Posts
15’ Maravia Zepher. Recretec frame.
Front dry box is kitchen with Recretec table on top. Canyon 150qt cooler. Between the from dry box and cooler, Recretec left me a big enough gap to slide my fit pan in on edge.
Diamond plate floor.
Back dry box because it is latched in has the bar and personal day use gear.
I’ve since mounted footman’s loops on the yellow Pelican so it can be accessed without removing straps. Both dry boxes are covered with Seadeck now.
Pacific bag in the back.
every strap is either a loop strap or is hitched.
Always the last to start loading, with the kitchen, but always the first done. Fire pan toward the front makes for a well balanced boat.
Front dry box is kitchen with Recretec table on top. Canyon 150qt cooler. Between the from dry box and cooler, Recretec left me a big enough gap to slide my fit pan in on edge.
Diamond plate floor.
Back dry box because it is latched in has the bar and personal day use gear.
I’ve since mounted footman’s loops on the yellow Pelican so it can be accessed without removing straps. Both dry boxes are covered with Seadeck now.
Pacific bag in the back.
every strap is either a loop strap or is hitched.
Always the last to start loading, with the kitchen, but always the first done. Fire pan toward the front makes for a well balanced boat.
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35 Posts
Is there any concern for your legs smashing into the dry boxes?
is that a Jag?
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2,671 Posts
I personally hate having side boxes sitting on the floor next to my legs. I ended up getting the Frontierplay "Personal" sized drybox which is 14x14 and 6" tall and they go next to my cooler on the frame. That leaves plenty of space for my legs and knees and I don't have to worry about banging my knees up. It also makes that spot wider and it makes for a nice place to take a nap under my shade umbrella once you get to camp.
14x24 wave destroyers
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