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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have officially googled the crap out of this. I'm looking for a way to put a frame on my Super Puma that will also fit on a 14' Rogue raft. The Rogue needs to be 66" to 72" wide. Can I put a 66" NRS frame on a Super Puma, or is that just ridiculously big? What size or width of frame do you have on your Super Pumas? Pictures please. Thank you!


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I have a 72" wide frame that I use for my 14' long 7' wide raft. I also strap it to my shredder - which is only 60" wide (8" narrower than your super puma). It isn't elegant - but it works. The frame hangs over both sides by a good 6". On the plus side my oars work for both boats without any modification. I have rowed the Royal Gorge, Clear Creek from Lawson to 119 and Shoshone with this setup. It works great (as long as I remember to tighten all of the set screws - why is my oar tower under water?! I should of checked all the set screws).

You could also design the frame to be variable width and then have two sets of oars (or change the position of your oar stops/clips/oar rights). To make a variable width frame you could swap out smaller/larger cross and seat bars with existing side rails.

You could also get fancy and design the frame to add side bars to increase the width when running your larger boat. Basically make a double rail transformer frame from a single rail for use on the larger boat. Although this might require you to move the oar towers to the outside rails so that the frame doesn't interfere with the oar shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I'm thinking a 66" NRS compact outfitter frame with 8'6" full length oars that have 1'6" extensions so it makes 10' over all length oars for big open flat water that can work on both rafts with the same frame.

I did the math with the Aire websites info on it. It says the super puma is 5'8" wide so 68" and baffles are 18.5" diameter. So I rounded it off to 18" and got a center to center baffle measurement or frame width of 50". So a 60" wide frame would be almost as wide as my boat and a 66" wide frame would be 2" short of the full width of my boat, but allow lots of gear and torque on the wide oars. I'm kind of thinking a 66" wide NRS compact outfitter frame. What do you think?


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a 72" wide frame that I use for my 14' long 7' wide raft. I also strap it to my shredder - which is only 60" wide (8" narrower than your super puma). It isn't elegant - but it works. The frame hangs over both sides by a good 6". On the plus side my oars work for both boats without any modification. I have rowed the Royal Gorge, Clear Creek from Lawson to 119 and Shoshone with this setup. It works great (as long as I remember to tighten all of the set screws - why is my oar tower under water?! I should of checked all the set screws).

You could also design the frame to be variable width and then have two sets of oars (or change the position of your oar stops/clips/oar rights). To make a variable width frame you could swap out smaller/larger cross and seat bars with existing side rails.

You could also get fancy and design the frame to add side bars to increase the width when running your larger boat. Basically make a double rail transformer frame from a single rail for use on the larger boat. Although this might require you to move the oar towers to the outside rails so that the frame doesn't interfere with the oar shaft.

Pictures? I like ugly so it's ok!


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shredder w: frame.jpg
Here is a pic of my setup.

Atomicrider - that is a really nice looking frame. Is it stainless? Polished?

66" frame width sounds like a good compromise to me.

As for oar lengths - those are determined by the oarlock to oarlock distance, seat height, tube size, oar spacing (overlap or gap of "x" size) and rowers height. Boat width doesn't really matter.

Shorter oars on a setup that is otherwise identical (based on the variables listed above) results in a higher engagement point (how high your hands are when you take a stroke). Longer oars result in a lower point of engagement (and less mechanical advantage).

Oar length should be the last variable you solve in your setup. Determine your preferred seat (cooler/drybox/flip seat/seat mounted on cross bar/etc) and how high that makes you above the waterline on your boat. Then determine the oar tower height you need to clear your knees. Next decide on the oar overlap or lack thereof you prefer - I recommend a gap of about 2-3" (this prevents banging your hands/thumbs together and allows for your oars to not knock you out of the boat as often). With that info in hand you have two choices - do some trigonometry to determine ideal oar length - or call a raft shop and get some advice.
 

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One more thing - if possible set your frame on the small boat so that your weight (seat bar, not oar towers) is centered or slightly ahead of center. You will punch holes much better with your weight centered or biased forward (assuming you prefer to push into waves). You can also achieve even weight distribution using a water jug or a cooler full of water or rocks in front).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That looks great and I like it! My boat evidently is a bit wider than you black boat there and the frame I'm looking at a bit narrower so that's my plan then as long as I can get my boat sold I'm going with the 66"er! As for oars I usually just put them in the oar locks and see where it feels right Thanks for the reply!


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think I'll use water jugs for now since I'll be carrying a bit of gear in it.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was going to make my own oar leashes. I'm glad to see you have done that. It gives me am idea! Thanks Raftus!


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