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T-clamps or lopros. I just bought a 156R. I plan on building a raft frame for it but can't decide weather to use the T-clamps with set screws you can get from Frontier Play, or to go with NRS Lopros. The T-clamps are half the price but not sure which makes it easier the break down the frame, which is more sturdy and stronger. If anyone has some advice/experience with both, help would be appreciated. First frame I will have built, so any other advice would be appreciated as well.
 

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Depends a lot on how much flexibility you want going forward. If doing speed rail you might consider 1.5" pipe and I'd find 6061 at someplace that does alum pipe like Alaskan copper and brass. I often see the fittings cheap on craigslist. The nrs advantages are no setscrew marks, breakdown without clips, and ability to reposition frame on the fly
 

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Take a look at the catalog at Aluminum Railing, ADA Railing, Handrail, Infill Panels & Pipe Fittings. SpeedRail fittings are better quality than Diamond or the Chinese copies. $100 minimum order.

Look at the pipe sizing guide as well. NRS pipe is 1-1/4" ips/1.66" actual od. So for NRS pipe get 1-1/4" fittings. If you can't get sched. 40 pipe locally, you can order it from Order Aluminum 6061 Pipe in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com

But compare the price (and shipping) for NRS pipe, which is anodized (non-marking).

I've built several frames with SpeedRail fittings.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1222&step=4&showunits=inches&id=73&top_cat=60
 

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Take a look at the catalog at Aluminum Railing, ADA Railing, Handrail, Infill Panels & Pipe Fittings. SpeedRail fittings are better quality than Diamond or the Chinese copies. $100 minimum order.

Look at the pipe sizing guide as well. NRS pipe is 1-1/4" ips/1.66" actual od. So for NRS pipe get 1-1/4" fittings. If you can't get sched. 40 pipe locally, you can order it from Order Aluminum 6061 Pipe in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com

But compare the price (and shipping) for NRS pipe, which is anodized (non-marking).

I've built several frames with SpeedRail fittings.
good reason to go with 1.5" ips seems like a lot more stuff is built with the 1-1/2" pipe size. i havent called this guy lately but ad still valid and hes got a shitload. $5/coupler seems like going price and are cheap to ship

Aluminum Speed Rail Coupler Fittings
 

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I really like the 1 1/4 schedule 40 size NRS uses just for the variety of bolt and go stuff built for it. Beverage holders, oar stands,umbrellas, anchor systems, you name it. Plus you can get parts at any boat store. As for speedrail stuff, check out Nurail.com , 1-800-638-7473. No minimum order. Genuine hollaender fittings. Also might check out Wild Goose Engineering ( fellow buzzard) if you want the best stuff available. All billet aluminum goodness.
 

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Yeah but for the new hollaender pricing you might be better off with lopros if you have a drill. I think the lopro design is definitely more bomber

Given unlimited budget i'd probably do double rail wildgoose with short hollaender crossbars between the inner rails
 

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Hollaender fittings for sure. They make the best Tees and though NRS lopros are strong(I have them on my cat frame for extra strength), they are 5x the weight/cost. I second 1 1/4 IPS so you can use NRS/wild goose parts. Oh yeah, call Gary at rowframe.com. He builds quality stuff at excellent prices but I believe uses only 1 1/2 IPS...

This frame was built from NRS frame rails and galvanized steel fence posts from home cheapo...I attach NRS footbar and oar towers
 

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I have a small frame for my cat that I made w/ NRS fittings, very bomber and adjustable. However, a couple weeks ago I was with someone that had a near identical frame made from Speedrail/DRE fittings. His frame was noticeably lighter, and had seen much class V action on his little cat.

My one beef with speedrail fittings is that they use setscrews and mar the frame, on my little cat I change a couple bars nearly every trip depending if it's a day trip or an over night. The set screws made little grooves and sharpness on you frame rails that can cause cuts during high-siding and dancing.

scott
 

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Scott. Pick up a good diamond file from harbor freight tools. Does a great job of deburring those setscrew divots
 

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Buikt mine with the same ones from DRE and 4 from Gary(Rowfrme.com) for my new 156R. I have been on the Yampah and aot of local runs this yer and The frame is built. PM me and Ill get you a scale drawing of what I built

christian
 

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That little guy standing on the tubes sure makes your boat look huge
 

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Really? I thought it was a boat for giants.
 

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I built my frame from the T-clamp pipe fittings from frontier play. The pipe is galvanized steel fence posts from home depot cut to spec with a pipe cutter.

I bought the towers and locks are from NRS and once everything arrived it took me about a day to put it all together and cost roughly $200....which in my opinion is cheap for a 3-bay frame.

The frame has proven to be very strong, both on long trips with heavy loads such as cataract and small day trips such as the lake fork where the frame got a good beating and was solid.

I do carry an extra fitting and spar screws in my patch kit, however nothing has need to be replaced in 2 seasons of use. I'm very happy with this frame, yes it is a bit heavier than most frames but so is my wallet....

Here are a few pics...

 

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I decided on NRS low pro, its just a better stronger attachment, i had a Star frame for a while with the speed fittings it was a pain in the ass to move the bars, Also i found 6061 aluminum pipe at a welding shop a 20 foot stick $54 buy 2 and you have enough.
 
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