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Discussion Starter #1
Any rafters tried this system out? Looks convenient but perhaps not very secure. It would suck losing a repair kit in a flip, a camera box due to snagging on something, or worst of all the tequila collection due to someone tripping!
 

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I've thought about running a lot of rocket boxes but decided against it as its a lot of weight per volume of storage. And their solution seems expensive and requires a platform and is more stuff to fail

That being said, you may try this idea out if you have an nrs frame, and want to devote a bay to ammo cans.

Adjust the crossbar spacing so the box just fits between the crossbars, but the handles wedge if you try and push it down. The box will be about half below the frame. Run a simple loop strap below the box and tension to support its weight.

Use a simple two piece loop strap with each end looped around the frame and handle and then over the box to lock it down. The loop strap when tightened will lock the handles tight to the frame, as well as tension the lower strap

To access the box, loosen the top strap but do not remove, just flip it to the side. Then open the box lid using the normal hinge method

Let me know if this works
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We do that now for the center bay with 4 to 5 large ammos. But we rest the can handles on the frame and strap them in; table goes on top. Was thinking about the RAC system for smaller ammos on the side. However, I need convincing it's worth the money and risk.
 

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I've thought about it for my drop floor (which has 2 rocket boxes strapped to it) and for my side rails which has my first aid kit, repair kit and day boxes all in ammo cans.

I really like the idea and how clean it looks, but so far straps have worked great for me and depending on how you set it up you can get in and out of the boxes without undoing the cam strap.

I may go that route when I have a ton of money to burn, for now I'm sticking to straps and wood decks.
 

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I started this project before I saw the system. I made some custom boards that fit next to my cooler, but leave enough room to pull it out. I sit on a AAA trucker flip seat over the cooler. Drilled 4 holes in the bottom of the ammo cans and bolted through the cans and wood using rubber washers and caulk. The boards attach to the frame with 2 4ft straps. Then took it a step further and made the boards out of 3/8 inch architectural polycarbonate (lexan) and had the ammo cans powder coated. Keeps things dry and it's like having multiple glove compartments right next to you with no straps. One is for personal items, ones is first aid and the other is sunblock, and random other. I'll try to find some photos of it set up.
 

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I started this project before I saw the system. I made some custom boards that fit next to my cooler, but leave enough room to pull it out. I sit on a AAA trucker flip seat over the cooler. Drilled 4 holes in the bottom of the ammo cans and bolted through the cans and wood using rubber washers and caulk. The boards attach to the frame with 2 4ft straps. Then took it a step further and made the boards out of 3/8 inch architectural polycarbonate (lexan) and had the ammo cans powder coated. Keeps things dry and it's like having multiple glove compartments right next to you with no straps. One is for personal items, ones is first aid and the other is sunblock, and random other. I'll try to find some photos of it set up.
I'd love to see photos of your setup. I have been looking into making side rails out of Starboard, Tap Plastics has it priced at $180 for two 12"x80" rails, ouch! I'm sticking to treated plywood for now for less than 1/4 the price.

I use straps to attach the rails to the frame as well, but for my new setup I am going to experiment with loom clamps similar to the ones sold by Pulse.
 

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I'd love to see photos of your setup. I have been looking into making side rails out of Starboard, Tap Plastics has it priced at $180 for two 12"x80" rails, ouch! I'm sticking to treated plywood for now for less than 1/4 the price.

I use straps to attach the rails to the frame as well, but for my new setup I am going to experiment with loom clamps similar to the ones sold by Pulse.
If you've got an NRS frame, ditch the loom straps and go this route: Pontillo Furniture Concepts - Ash And Quartersawn Oak Deck For NRS Raft Frame

The owner of the company has a source for the nuts you need and it works great - Wish I would have thought of it sooner...
 

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If you've got an NRS frame, ditch the loom straps and go this route: Pontillo Furniture Concepts - Ash And Quartersawn Oak Deck For NRS Raft Frame

The owner of the company has a source for the nuts you need and it works great - Wish I would have thought of it sooner...
That was my original plan, but the sleeve nuts are bank. The best price I found was $4 per nut and I would need 20 of them (two per U bolt, 5 crossbars for 2 rails) Then another $2 each for the U bolts. I would be looking at $100 in fasteners alone!

I could have gone with a threaded nut, but I really like the clean look of the sleeve nuts. With the loom clamp I can use carriage bolts and get the same clean look.
 

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How does this solution treat the frame straps? I think the wood needs to be milled where you expect them to go.
 

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How does this solution treat the frame straps? I think the wood needs to be milled where you expect them to go.
Currently I use two 1' straps per rail. One in the stern, one at the bow. I loop my fliplines through the frame and the side rail to hold the rail in place laterally. I drilled 1" holes everywhere I expected to put a strap, so one for stern and bow and a few others near each crossbar to run straps for ammo cans and small drybags. I took a router to the edges and all of the 1" holes to round them off. I sealed the wood with a heavy duty water seal. For the trips I've been on this has been enough to protect the wood. On my new boat I am going to go with marine grade deck seal.

I can shoot some photos later today.
 

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If you've got an NRS frame, ditch the loom straps and go this route: Pontillo Furniture Concepts - Ash And Quartersawn Oak Deck For NRS Raft Frame

Very nice looking decks. A real piece of River artwork. What's the price on those? Does the price include the U-bolts? Would work well if you never change your frame set-up. I tinker with mine every so often, so a fixed deck like that wouldn't work for me. I use 2 sets of the NRS 3 foot side rail racks on my 14 ft. cat, and run loop straps to hold stuff down. I added a metal bar to the back/side of my Pelican box that I carry my camera in so that I can secure it with 2 cam straps to the deck without interfering with my access to it on the fly. I'm not a big fan of ammo cans on my boat. Been gashed by those bad boys too many times. My repair kit & first aid are in Pelicans.
KJ
 

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I'm the same. Tinker too much to use fixed decks. I've made some custom cedar "trays" out of planed cedar fenceboard. They fit inside the rails just outside my cooler. These provide convenient strap points for my pelicans

Each ammo can weighs about 20lbs. A pelican 1550 (comparable inside dims) weighs about 10. I drilled pin mounts in the rib so the cases can be strapped down yet still opened. I use one for the lid on my ecosafe and the other holds everclear.

I have a couple of 1520's (tsa carryons) with lid organizers. A pair of these holds all the cooking gear (minus stove and pots) but organizes well as a kitchen box

I use a large popcorn tin that holds my ashes. I can set in shallow water to snuff out / cool the ashes without warping the tin. Next morning i place the tin in a 5 gallon bucket with a gamma lid

I use the ecosafe without an ammo can
 

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I have a pulse system on my nrs frame. It is very secure but anything is possible in a flip. I change my frame setup quite a bit from daytrip, fishing setup, to a 4 bay system. It makes it nice having the boxes available for easy access depending on what I am running.
 
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