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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I'm getting a new boat and frame set up and have two questions for y'all.

1) This may be highly subjective, but where do people like their oar height? I've got 8" towers and am sitting on a cooler so I have flexibility in rigging the cooler higher or lower. Do you want to put the locks around thighs? waste? stomach?

2) What's the best way/knot to tie off the perimeter line?...just found this:http://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/f44/knots-for-perimeter-line-56733-2.html

So I guess just one question, unless someone wants to weigh in on perimeter line knot.

Cheers!
 

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1 - I don't really understand the question exactly, but the oars should be around your belt/belly button when holding parallel to the water surface/ground.

2 - Perimeter ropes are usually attached on the end points/d rings with a bowline and the inside knots are single overhand, which allows you to tighten a loosen the line without untying all the knots.
 

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Many people position oar ends to just miss each other in a power stroke position. Some people like an overlap. Do you feather oars on each stroke?Oarstand height, outboard position and angle, all play a part.I want to be pushing as though I'm doing a benchpress if going forward.I go a little lower with back,legs and arms working if rowing backwards.Oars must clear life jacket.Oarstands need to be forward enough to clear jacket and give a full stroke. Watch a few videos and see how many folks are barely full stroking when it counts.
 

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1 - I like my oars right about mid boob level. Around the same area where you'd bench press or throw a solid jab if boxing. Torso size, leg length, arm length, height of seat, and oar tower height all play a part in getting oars set up comfortably for each individual. I like about a fists width of space between my oar handles when parallel.

2. I use webbing (not nylon) as my perimeter line with a loop strap & cam buckle to make it easy to tighten the line and remove it as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks!

One issue I'm having is that the used frame has the oar towers set up really far forward. So when I'm sitting on the cooler the oars would come together at about my knees or even a little forward of my knees. I'm going to have to cut new holes in the decking to move them closer to me body.
 

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Thanks!

One issue I'm having is that the used frame has the oar towers set up really far forward. So when I'm sitting on the cooler the oars would come together at about my knees or even a little forward of my knees. I'm going to have to cut new holes in the decking to move them closer to me body.
That is where they should come together. When you sit on your seat, the oar locks should be at your knees. If not the handles will hit your pfd (life jacket).
 

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Set your boat up on the ground, grass or garage floor. Take the blades off your oars and row it just keeping the oar shafts off the ground. This will help you figure it out.
 

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I prefer to keep my oars much further apart, then is suggested here. I like my hands to be almost straight out from my shoulders. This puts much less strain on my elbows, by not "twisting" them. The other folks posting are not wrong in what they suggest, you should try out several positions and figure out what works best for you
 

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The best thing for you to do is to go out and mess around until you find the best fit. Start out on flat water then move your way into some moving water. Who else may be rowing? Get them involved too.
 

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I agree with smhoeher, best thing to do is play with the oars and see what works best for you. I can't remember what site it is (Pro?), but there is a diagram that gives you a basic starting point to set up your oars and you can adjust from there.

I have my perimeter line with one end tied to the d-ring and the other end has a prusik knot on a carabiner. This makes it adjustable, so I can get it real tight or let the tension off if I want to. I also use a prusik for my bow line, so I can bring it in or out when the water level changes.


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