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Discussion Starter #1
Input from someone more experienced than myself.
Looking to get oars for my new Aire143R
Frame center to center is 60”, oar lock to oar lock is 73” boat is 6’6” wide. Upon internet search I have determined that a 9’ oar would be sufficient but not sure if I should just go for the 10’ oars. I will be floating the green from flaming dam on hope to get into others soon.
Thanks for your input
 

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I was told this trick awhile back and it's served me well thus far:
Measure the distance between your oar locks. Take that number times 1.5 add 6 divide by 12. Long mutiday gear boat go longer. Fishing go shorter for those tight spots.



73*1.5 = 109.5
109.5+6= 115.5
115.5/12
9.625
I'd go 10 foot on those unless you'll be doing lots of smaller rivers.
I'm 6'4, so prefer longer oars when given the choice. Seem to have more leverage and I like feeling the pull of a full stroke with lots of leverage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That’s an interesting formula and makes sense to go for the 10’. Would be interesting to find out how that formula was brought about.
Thanks
 

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Where are you located, I may have a set of 10’ sawyer mxg that need a home, loaned to a buddy who just bought a drift boat and reminded me of my oars.
Good luck
 

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My frame is 60.5" centre to centre, oarlocks are 71.5" currently, and 9' oars are plenty for me on my 13' x 6'3" RMR.

I couldn't imagine 10's on my boat as my 9's are already counterbalanced, and sometimes wonder if 8.5's might be better and I could skip the counterbalance.
 

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Personally I'd stick with 9 or 9.5s. my nrs frame is 66" wide with the 8" towers (those look like they might be taller) and I used 10s for years until i picked up some 9.5s. the 9.5s just feel better. 10s are a lot to swing around on a narrow frame. The taller the locks the longer you can go though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How is your seat set up? I will be sitting a cooler and the oar locks are 10” would you think this would make a need for longer oar?
 

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I like the counter balanced quite a bit. Now have some square tops and won’t go with anything else. I’ll be heading to San Juan on June 24 along I-70 if you want some counter balanced 10’ sawyers. Pm me for pics etc
 

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I like the counter balanced quite a bit. Now have some square tops and won’t go with anything else. I’ll be heading to San Juan on June 24 along I-70 if you want some counter balanced 10’ sawyers. Pm me for pics etc
 

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I sit on my dry box, both my oar sets are counter balanced mxs-f/g's. So that part is a same comparison.

With the oar lock height I'm just saying it's something to account for. the taller you go it changes the angle to the water, so for say in this example if you went with a 8.5, you might be rowing with the handles up higher in relation to your body in what could be an uncomfortable position, vs a 9.5 that would keep the angle to the water flatter and the handles in a more comfortable pulling zone with some better leverage. Everything is a trade off so that's way there's no one right answer. Sounds like Jonseim has the wingspan of a condor and likes swinging around sticks with big leverage. I'm your average 5-10 chubby older guy who doesn't like to work so hard, so I might be willing to give up a bit of pull to have a more comfortable day rowing lighter feeling sticks. :)

There really should be a rental program that would let you take 3 sizes out on a day trip to try before shelling out 100s of bucks on new sticks. I only stumbled on my 9.5s since someone here was selling them used and I thought they had a cool pattern so figured why not, but now that's what I use and the 10s are the backups. Never tried 9s though ;-)
 
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