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Discussion Starter #1
Found the boat last year for $400 Canadian. It's a 10 foot hyside bucket boat with a number of patches (some of them are pretty ugly) and a few slow leaks that I have repaired.

Decided that instead of spending money on a good NRS frame I'd just build one out of wood.

The side rails are 2x4's and I've used aluminum angle stock to raise the oarlocks up. This means I could very easily twin the side rails with another 2x4 on each side if I decide I don't think it's strong enough. The oarlocks and stands are cheap stuff from Bass Pro Shops that I believe are usually used small fishing boats? I already had three 6.5' oars from an older and shittier poverty boat.

I'd estimate I'm in to it for a little over $100 Canadian for all the frame parts and supplies, and that could have been less if I went with cheaper spruce lumber but I like the look of the Cedar.

The plan for this in the short term is day floats and maybe class I to II short overnights on suitable rivers. It also might get used as a loaner on some trips where a friend doesn't have a boat.

In the long term I have my eye on some remote rivers in northern BC that are usually run in canoes. Many of these reaches require float plane access and/or portaging. I figure this will be much easier with the small and lightweight gear, compared with my 13' RMR and heavy metal frame.

Hopefully the maiden voyage will be soon to see how it handles.

My roommate has rightfully noted the distinct lack of a place to hold my beer, and rest assured this will be remedied prior to its maiden voyage. I also will be gluing down some cheap foam on the plywood for a seat.
 

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Love it...but save some $ for proper oar locks and stands. You'll want them after the first trip.

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I wouldn't take that rig in anything over Class I, and that angle metal is a bad injury just waiting to happen. At least cover it with pool noodle foam or something.
 

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Bucket boat to get you on the river is great. Looks like a fun ride and you'll get lots of great experience learning how patch rubber with it too!

However, those aluminum angle brackets sticking up along the sides scare the bejesus out of me with the thought of what could happen to someone stepping/falling/getting thrown into one of them. That could be a lot of stitches and patchwork of the non-so-fun kind.

Ditto on what NorthernAZ, except before the first trip.

Be safe,

AH
 

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I have the same concerns as Andy. That angle Al looks irresponsibly dangerous. Otherwise it looks great.


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This place really cracks me up... sometimes someone's home-made and inexpensive solution is praised, but more often than not it's slammed hard... lol!

This is not my first boat and far from my first trip... this is quiver boat. My other boat is a 13' RMR with an NRS style frame and oarlocks. I really don't think anywhere near that beefy is needed for such a small boat that will not be overloaded or run in big water. The oarlocks actually feel quite stout to me... I'd be more worried about the aluminum angle failing (or the bolts attaching the lock holders) before the oarlocks or mounts failing.

I am aware of the hazards of sharp things in a boat and was careful to make sure there are no sharp edges and I'm really not worried about them. Having said that, a pool noodle is a cheap and easy thing I could add if I ever do take this into bigger water, so thanks for that suggestion.

The oars are from Canadian Tire and are basically identical to cheap Caviness oars. But they are cheap and they are very light.

Honestly, I have no interest in defending the design of this, I just thought it might be interesting to others who are considering making their own cheap wooden frame like I did, because there doesn't seem to be as much info on that subject around here.
 

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I like your frame. The woodwork looks great and you said in the begining you were not running the grand canyon in that boat. Looks to me like you beveled the aluminum and it looks go to go. Nothing wrong with keeping the price low. Good job
 

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Nothing wrong with wood frames. The only thing I'd do different is use 2X6 instead of 2X4 for the rails.
Oh, and I'd seal that wood with primer, paint, stain, varnish or something.
Otherwise, yeah, a wood frame is cheap, and the guys with custom Aluminum/stainless steel will deride you and laugh at you, but if they bust something they're all panicked and have to carry special repair stuff.
With a wood frame, you can at worst just whittle whatever you need from any handy driftwood or deadwood.
And, a wood frame carries a LOT more beer than aluminum/stainless frames.
 

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This place really cracks me up... sometimes someone's home-made and inexpensive solution is praised, but more often than not it's slammed hard... lol!
That's odd - I saw generally positive and supportive comments about the setup overall (3 out of 4), and then folks expressing concern about a potentially dangerous aspect that you appeared to have overlooked.

-AH
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's odd - I saw generally positive and supportive comments about the setup overall (3 out of 4), and then folks expressing concern about a potentially dangerous aspect that you appeared to have overlooked.

-AH
Well pointing it out is one thing, but I guess what got me was "irresponsibly dangerous"... and probably "get some real oarlocks".

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Discussion Starter #15
Nothing wrong with wood frames. The only thing I'd do different is use 2X6 instead of 2X4 for the rails.
Oh, and I'd seal that wood with primer, paint, stain, varnish or something.
Otherwise, yeah, a wood frame is cheap, and the guys with custom Aluminum/stainless steel will deride you and laugh at you, but if they bust something they're all panicked and have to carry special repair stuff.
With a wood frame, you can at worst just whittle whatever you need from any handy driftwood or deadwood.
And, a wood frame carries a LOT more beer than aluminum/stainless frames.
I started with 2x4's for weight and I thought the height would be good for this boat but when I felt it was too low I added the aluminum. 2x6's would have worked well... but the advantage to the aluminum is I can move the oars forward or back easily without drilling extra holes in the wood that would be a potential source of water infiltration.

Because of the way the frame is set up now I could and have already considered twinning the 2x4's with glue and screws, thus effectively making the sides 4x4's. This would obviously add extra weight, but it's pretty light right now. I'm going to try it out as is and see how it feels first.

Also, I live in canada in an area where not many people raft, and of those that do, I've seen some WAY jankier setups than this... not the same rafting culture up here.

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Nothing wrong with a wood frame thats built right. Don't expect a pat on the back when it looks like a bag of dicks. If you can't take the criticism don't post pictures of your junk.
 

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I had a look at the angle aluminum. An easy solution would be to flip the oar locks upside down and screw the angle metal upside down from its current position. Eliminates the edge, and doesn't require a pool noodle.
FWIW, I thought the thing looked pretty good, particularly given the financial outlay. Gave me some thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nothing wrong with a wood frame thats built right. Don't expect a pat on the back when it looks like a bag of dicks. If you can't take the criticism don't post pictures of your junk.
See, now that's what I'm talking about... lol!!

Feel better now? :sly:

Not looking for a pat on the back... just sharing, which I thought was the point of a forum.

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I think people were just concerned about safety with good intentions

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like lots of other folks have said, great job on the used boat, and have fun on the river. lots of wood frames out there that are great, yours looks like it will work. that said, you're looking hard for negativity and finding it and focusing on it.

but whatever, I will add that you can file down that aluminum all you want but if somebody gets tossed into it or falls onto it, it's going to hurt alot and could be lots of stitches with a nasty scar. A pool noodle will split vertically in line with the aluminum and wont really provide that much protection for you.

be safe. it sucks going straight from the takeout to the ER.
 
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