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Kjirsten
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Yesterday when I got to the putin (of course), I realized the floor of my raft had blown a seam. It's a hypalon, self-bailing Hyside. The floor seam is about a hand's width all the way around and there are grommets through which the rope laces to secure the floor to the tubes.

About a 6 inch section of this seam has blown partially out and the floor is leaking badly around one of the grommets. The seam is not separated completely. I tried putting adhesive around the grommet but it didn't seal it.

I'm wondering if I should separate the seam completely and re-adhesive the whole section, if I need a new grommet, or what the best course of action is.

I read through the repair threads but didn't really see anything that applied. ~Thanks, Kjirsten
 

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If I read this right the edge by the grommets is dielamminating? If so a patch isn't gonna help. It may be not too difficult to repair but most likely a real pain in any case. I think you should call Highside and or Downriver equipment in Denver and talk to the tech Repair / Cust service guys. They are usually very helpful and can walk you through a repair (and maybe Warrenty it).
 

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your interior perimeter v tape that takes all the pressure and keeps the 2 layers of your floor from splitting has come unglued. stuffing all the adhesive in the world in the hole and regrommeting wont do any good. the grommets need to be pulled out, the 2 layers of floor need to be separated, the interior perimeter v tape needs to be re-attached (if it is in good shape)or replaced and then the floor needs to be put back together. this is a fairly common problem in older hysides, especially ones that have had water in the floor. it is a fairly tricky repair and certainly time consuming. be careful. when prepping the v tape make sure not so sand holes in it as it is very thin. probably not what you wanted to hear but hope it helps.



Yesterday when I got to the putin (of course), I realized the floor of my raft had blown a seam. It's a hypalon, self-bailing Hyside. The floor seam is about a hand's width all the way around and there are grommets through which the rope laces to secure the floor to the tubes.

About a 6 inch section of this seam has blown partially out and the floor is leaking badly around one of the grommets. The seam is not separated completely. I tried putting adhesive around the grommet but it didn't seal it.

I'm wondering if I should separate the seam completely and re-adhesive the whole section, if I need a new grommet, or what the best course of action is.

I read through the repair threads but didn't really see anything that applied. ~Thanks, Kjirsten
 

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How old is your boat? It might be a warranty repair. Also, other than straight forward puncture repairs, I am a pretty big fan of professional repairs. AAA or IT in Denver can do the job. I saw on Hyside's website that there is a place called Phoenix Raft in Grand Junction that they recommend, although I have no experience with that particular outfit.
Hyside Dealers and Repair Centers
 

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On the inside of that seam you have a doubler strip glued the full length of the floor tubes that keeps the seam from seperating. The inside doubler seam needs to be glued fitst where the floor is damaged, it is about 2 inches wide. After glueing suck the air out of the floor to seat the inside seam for about one hour or longer. than inflate the floor to check for leaks, with soap. if no leaks glue rest of seam where grommet is.
 

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Kjirsten
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Discussion Starter #6
your interior perimeter v tape that takes all the pressure and keeps the 2 layers of your floor from splitting has come unglued. stuffing all the adhesive in the world in the hole and regrommeting wont do any good. the grommets need to be pulled out, the 2 layers of floor need to be separated, the interior perimeter v tape needs to be re-attached (if it is in good shape)or replaced and then the floor needs to be put back together. this is a fairly common problem in older hysides, especially ones that have had water in the floor. it is a fairly tricky repair and certainly time consuming. be careful. when prepping the v tape make sure not so sand holes in it as it is very thin. probably not what you wanted to hear but hope it helps.
Yep- this is exactly what I was afraid of. The biggest problem is that I am in Asheville, NC until August and I don't know anyone here to help me repair it or where to get new v-tape. And being boatless for the next month is unacceptable.:confused:

Do I need to completely separate the bottom of the floor from the top and remove all the grommets or can I just remove it partially around the blown out part to re-attach or replace the v-tape?

I think you should call Highside and or Downriver equipment in Denver and talk to the tech Repair / Cust service guys. They are usually very helpful and can walk you through a repair (and maybe Warrenty it).
I don't know anything about prepping v-tape, so thanks for the suggestion to call Downriver- maybe they can help by phone.

The boat is older and I bought it used, so I'm sure there's no warranty.

On the inside of that seam you have a doubler strip glued the full length of the floor tubes that keeps the seam from seperating. The inside doubler seam needs to be glued fitst where the floor is damaged, it is about 2 inches wide. After glueing suck the air out of the floor to seat the inside seam for about one hour or longer. than inflate the floor to check for leaks, with soap. if no leaks glue rest of seam where grommet is.
This actually sounds easier, but doesn't mention v-tape. I don't know what v-tape is, so I don't know if my boat has it or not. Will opening the doubler strip and glueing fix the problem?

Thanks for all the help, Kjirsten
 

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Zbaird's discription is more accurate, the v tape which I called a doubler needs to be glued first, as discribed. When you open the floor seam you will see what we are talking about. One peek is worth a thousand words. you may call me at (720) 232-8526 sounds you need the help SAP.
 

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Kjirsten,

You should talk to Tony Miely at 4 Corners. He's a swimmer when he is in his kayak and drinks Schlitz and talks himself up alot. but I believe he worked for Downriver Equipment or some other Denver based raft Manuf. b4 he started wussing out running the town run and swimming out of Smelter.

Steve.
 

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Kjirsten
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Discussion Starter #9
Kjirsten,

You should talk to Tony Miely at 4 Corners. He's a swimmer when he is in his kayak and drinks Schlitz and talks himself up alot. but I believe he worked for Downriver Equipment or some other Denver based raft Manuf. b4 he started wussing out running the town run and swimming out of Smelter.

Steve.
I wish I was there to take it to Tony, even if he does swim a lot. I decided to take it to Smoky Mtn Raft Repair. It's only about an hour away through pretty scenery and Huck, the owner, seems knowledgeable and helpful. Thanks for all the feedback!
 

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Renaissance Redneck
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Thats a fukin bummer... can you just glue the outer seam for now and run it with a real soft floor then fix it for real when youre home
I had an old Momentum that had a separated inner floor seam that started to make a bubble where it came loose and was spreading toward the outer edge where it would have blown out. What I did was to cut a 6 inch slice in the top of the floor, glue the inner seam then patch the slice. Then I ran it with a soft floor till I sold it.
Good luck. I have some good friends in Gauley Land WV that could prolly help ya.
 

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How much is a new floor? is one available? maybe you could replace it, then fix yours and sell it.

Mike's suggestion is pretty solid too. Get a good roll and you'll only want to deal with that raft for overnights or picking up non boating guys.
 

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Kjirsten
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Discussion Starter #13
Thats a fukin bummer... can you just glue the outer seam for now and run it with a real soft floor then fix it for real when youre home
I had an old Momentum that had a separated inner floor seam that started to make a bubble where it came loose and was spreading toward the outer edge where it would have blown out. What I did was to cut a 6 inch slice in the top of the floor, glue the inner seam then patch the slice. Then I ran it with a soft floor till I sold it.
Good luck. I have some good friends in Gauley Land WV that could prolly help ya.
I tried a quick fix around the grommet and it didn't help, the floor was still completely soft in a few minutes. Fortunately the run was easy and low so a soft floor isn't a really bad thing.

That's what "Huck" at Smoky Mtn Raft Repair told me was that I really need to cut into the floor, not try to go through the outer seam. The problem is that the I-beams in the front and rear sections are cross-wise, not length-wise, so there's not a lot of room for mistakes in cutting into the floor.

The cool thing is, he also said he would sell me the patches and let me do it in his parking lot with advice and observation because he can't get to it until next week sometime. So I will learn how to do it with a skilled person nearby and it won't cost me a fortune.

Mike and Dave- I tried kayaking for a winter 2-3 years ago and I had a roll in the pool 60% of the time...all the time. I didn't count that as good enough and I don't like being trapped in the boat under water. Besides, there isn't enough room for beer in a kayak.:p
 

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Renaissance Redneck
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yep
scary to cut into a tube
but mine came out pretty good
some friend of Frazier's bought that boat about 6 years ago... he could probably tell ya if it held up
good luck
 

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Sorry to bring back an old thread from the dead, but I was wondering if this repair ever worked out? I'm looking at pretty much the same situation. It looks like the previous owner must've overinflated the floor of my my boat because most of the i beams are blown out, and there's a separation in the front. The top and bottom layer of mine separated (maybe about three fingers wide) from the front of the bladder to one of the drain holes. A guy who does raft repair for NOC's rentals suggested that I should cut the top layer open a few inches Then use a dremel (set to slow speed) with a light-grit sanding stone to rough-up the inside, then glue the interior, then patch the slit.

Does anyone have any ideas for roughing the interior that doesn't involve a dremel?

Also, would heating both sides with a heat gun reactivate the adhesive? Or will that just make more problems?
 

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Renaissance Redneck
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Does anyone have any ideas for roughing the interior that doesn't involve a dremel?
It's been a long time but I'm pretty sure i just reached my hand in there with some dragon skin to rough the surfaces up. It held fine till I sold the boat but I was pretty careful with it. If it doesn't work you can probably find a new floor to lace in... even if it means cutting the old one out and installing the grommets. Good Luck.
 

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Thanks LSB. I tried the repair, but it didn't hold. I inflated it with just my shop vac, and it started blistering out again. So I quickly deflated the floor.

Since I don't really have the know-how to replace the floor (and this is a $100 used boat that's far from pretty), I went with another, less-elegant option. In case any one ever runs into this problem, here's what I did:

I bought a 36-inch piece of aluminum bar 2 inches wide by 1/8 inch thick.

Cut it into two identical pieces, long enough to go across the front of my floor, along the edge and covering the blister.

Used a sander to round off all the corners and edges of the aluminum.

Lined up the two pieces and then pinched them in a bench vice to keep them together, and then drilled five 3/8-inch holes across the length of them. NOTE: before drilling, i made sure that no holes would be going through the blister in the floor of my boat. I only want them going through the self-sealed portions!

I then lined one of the plates up with the seam of the floor, and transfered the position of the drilled holes to the raft.

I used a 1/4-inch drill bit (spinning in reverse to avoid gouging the rubber material!) to drill out the holes. i placed a piece of wood under the raft so that I wouldn't dull my drill bit on my garage floor.

Next, i installed the two aluminum plates. One below the raft, and one above it, to sandwich the rubber material in between. I used 1/4 stainless bolts with flathead screw heads (3/4 inch long). Before pushing the bolts through, I gave each hole a dab of Hylomar gasket sealer (from the auto parts store). The stuff never dries, but it seals things like this nicely, and it minimized the steel-aluminum contact.

The bolts were fed from the bottom, upward so that the round screw heads will be exposed to the rocks (I didn't want the threaded portion out there grabbing more rock surface. This setup will already do that nicely). I used nylon washers on both the nut and bolt side.

Tightened everything up, and she holds air again!

If i had to do it all over again, i wou'ld've gone stainless steel for the main bar.
 
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