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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey gearheads. So my old Avon Pro is leaking through the valve stem and I need to get to the guts, again. Last time I had to buy a 30$ Craftsman 2" socket and break off the valve cover attachment point. It worked, but that's a 2lb chunk of steel in the repair kit that I would like to avoid. Not to mention field repair would involve wittling away plastic for hours in order to make the socket fit, with a sharp knife next to hypalon ...

So I want a cheap, light 2" socket that I can put in the kit. Shower valve wrenches would be perfect, but they don't make them that big so I'm told. Any ideas? I know some of you have done this over the years. What was your solution? Thanks in advance.
 

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How about this style of socket? Roadless Gear. Spindle Nut Socket - 50mm (2")

I've not worked with A7's so if I'm way off let me know... I'm assuming yours are in a boot? I looked at leafields site and they don't list the actual dimension, but I'm assuming metric, 50mm or 52mm. they list the torque at 20 ft/lbs which isn't a lot, could you make a wrench that just worked on two of the flats? Like this l_l... just some AL strap about the same width as the nut flat, bend it in a vice to a 50 mm flat bottomed "U" (or what ever size). Not super simple but not complex fabrication either...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Elk. That socket you linked too is pretty beefy still and would require me to still chip off the valve cover flange. I don't have much in the way of metal working tools, but the aluminum strap idea isn't a bad one. The valve is recessed in a narrow boot about an inch which is why I can't get other wrenches in there.
 

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This may simplify your life, unless you're trying to do something I'm not understanding.

C7 Leafield Valve Wrench at nrs.com
yeah, he's talking A7, not C7.

and yep, as oarboatman said, channel locks are the answer. you may want to take care and protect the plastic abit as the locks have a good bite and can put deep scratches or chips into your new valves. that's about it. pretty easy. it's still abit bulky for the repair kit but that's life in the poorly designed/ antiquated gear lane.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmmm. I tried channel locks years ago and could not get them to work--the valve is pretty deep in that boot. Perhaps I wasn't being aggressive enough. At the time the boat was new to me and I certainly wouldn't have wanted to chew it up.

I actually managed to clean off the plunger and guts without taking it apart today. I think I'll be taking the short piece of hacksaw blade, 3/4" drive 2" socket, 3/4" to 1/2" adapter, and 1/2" ratchet on the river again.

Thanks folks. Keep the suggestions coming if you've got something that will help.
 
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