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Discussion Starter #1
I'll probably get flamed by the upper class for poverty boating (I prefer frugal floating) but my cat is just a little too long and my trailer is just a little too short. I'm thinking about using some hitch extender products to help out. Anyone familiar with products like this? Here are some samples:

12 In Hitch Extender

Curt #45796 18" Receiver Extender - BendTrailers.com

Ultra-Tow 2-Inch Standard Weld-On Receiver Tube with Collar — 48in. Length | Hitch Adapters| Northern Tool + Equipment
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right on. I have thought about doing that but I think my coupler might be welded on. I have also thought about cutting and welding the ol trailer, as well as buying a new trailer. For now I'm going as cheap and easy as possible until the motor cat project is off the ground. Once the motor goes vroom and the boat actually drives the sky's the limit
 

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I run one of those when I have my camper in my truck bed and they work fine. You just need to be careful with deep dips in the road so it doesn't bottom out.
 

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There is also a bolt on folding tongue extender. You remove the latch mechanism on the trailer tongue and bolt a longer/folding extension on your trailer. It's made for folks who want to store their boat in their garage- they would cut the existing trailer tongue off short- and add the "swing away trailer tongue" which allows them to fold it after the boat has been backed into the garage- popular when I lived in florida. You would simply add it to the existing trailer tongue to get the additional length you need.

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice these are good ideas. If anyone out there has done anything randon crazy and or unique we'd like to hear about it...
 

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There is also a bolt on folding tongue extender. You remove the latch mechanism on the trailer tongue and bolt a longer/folding extension on your trailer. It's made for folks who want to store their boat in their garage- they would cut the existing trailer tongue off short- and add the "swing away trailer tongue" which allows them to fold it after the boat has been backed into the garage- popular when I lived in florida. You would simply add it to the existing trailer tongue to get the additional length you need.

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I really like the swing away tongue concept and may have found a new project here for my 18 1/2 trailer. However, I just found a coupler that is used on the existing trailer tongue by cutting the tongue in half adding the coupler to the cut. Instead of cutting of the tongue and adding a whole new swing away tongue.

I've just need to figure out if the swing away would impede the trailer jack.

Fulton Fold-Away Coupler Hinge Kit for 3" x 5" Tongue - Weld On - Up to 9,000 lbs Fulton Trailer Coupler FHDPW350300

 

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You can do it that way and add whatever length of stock you need. Mount a jack on the trailer body end I would think

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Jared
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You'd be happier to extend your tongue and leave the hitch alone. I hate all the clunkiness of that stuff, and they do add leverage to your hitch setup. I like the looks of that fold away coupler, that would be nice for my trailer. There are a lot of unanswered questions though, like how much weight do you tow, what are you towing with, what does your trailer look like, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
light trailer and boat I'm working with. Maybe 2 or 3 hundred lb boat sitting on the trailer. Its some old tilt bed outfit from the 90s. Looks to have a 4 inch boxed tongue. Everything needs to stay pretty light as I'm towing with a 4 cylinder Tacoma
 

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Same problem a few years ago and used extended receiver hitch. Works perfect. I think it is about 30" instead of the standard 12".
 

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I was in the same situation last year. I have an Echo 2 position ATV trailer that I modified for hauling our 16' cat. As part of another (failed) project, I had purchased 2' of 2" square tube and 1' of receiver side slip tube that I planned to weld up as an extension.

As I got to looking at it I noticed that the slip was a perfect fit for the inside of the stock trailer tongue tubing (had to drive it in due to the internal welded seam).

Once I drove the 1' section about 10" into the trailer tongue I welded it in place. This leaves a 2" receiver hole on the trailer that I filled with the 2' piece of square with a coupler bolted to the end. I drilled both pieces to accept a 1/2" locking receiver pin to hold it together.

I have the option of removing the coupler for storage, running at just longer than stock length, or with about 18" of extension.

I don't have any pictures of the setup at the moment, but if anyone wants to see some let me know.
 

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I do like doing things "right", but there is also a time and place for the simplest solution. This might be one of those times.

I agree the preferred method would be to modify the trailer properly, with either a standard tongue extension or a swing-away extension. But that involves cutting, welding, buying of materials, and the careful planning involved in modifying a load-carrying structure like that. Plus you'll either need to have, rent, hire, or have a buddy with the proper equipment for the cutting and welding portion.



But if a hitch extension works, we're talking $40 and 20 minutes to extend the wiring harness, and you're ready to roll. It's kinda hard to argue with simplicity like that.
 

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Renaissance Redneck
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I had a 2 foot long stinger made to solve this problem. It cost about 60$ if I remember right. It's been a decade or so. Works great with raft or sea kayaks on the trailer. I dont use it for the horse trailer or camper trailer because of the tongue weight.
 

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My $.02, for what it's worth.

A hitch extension by itself will be the weakest link in the entire system. It has movement at both ends since it is held in place by two pins. It will rattle a lot, it will flex. You must also figure out a way to extend your trailer chains and keep them from dragging and binding during turns.

A lot of truck mounted campers have extended hitches but they are usually a superhitch type set up. They have over sized tubes and a lot of them have chains and turnbuckles that keep the extension from swaying.

What kind of roads are you towing your raft on? How rough is the road and how long are they? If the extension fails, do you have a way to repair it?

You might consider removing the extension after the rafts are unloaded while shuttling. Just remember to adjust the chains accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It will be easy paved city roads. Probably less than ten miles from my house to the lake. I never use a trailer for rafting. This setup will be for my lake boat.
 
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