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Discussion Starter #1
I'm starting to design the frame I'm going to build for my new cat. I'm going to use steel and weld it myself.

I'm looking for ideas for my oar towers. I'd like to make them foldable and have some fore aft adjustment as well.

What have you seen and what do you use?
 

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Ob1coby, That is the best design I have seen in a while. You ought to patten that thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Those towers won't fit on my 1" steel tubing. ;)

I have done a Google search and I have searched the forums. I have a few ideas in mind, but I'm sure there are some great designs that people have come up with on their own frames. I was hoping that they might share some of those ideas.
 

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Those towers won't fit on my 1" steel tubing. ;)

I have done a Google search and I have searched the forums. I have a few ideas in mind, but I'm sure there are some great designs that people have come up with on their own frames. I was hoping that they might share some of those ideas.
Sorry Lake, if you previously mentioned that this was 1" tubing I missed it.
 

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It is going to be very challenging to grip a 1" diameter tube with enough force to prevent the tower from rotating. You may want to consider a double rail design, at least at the tower locations.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am planning on a double rail design, at least for the rowing compartment. Almost every design I've seen has used a double rail.

Maybe, I wasn't clear enough in my first post. I'm mainly looking to see how people lock their tower on the outer rail.
 

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I've been using the DRE rainbow towers for a decade or so. Two pins hold them up. Pull the pins and they fold down so boats can be stacked on the trailer. Over time they become a little loosey, but are actually very solid for rowing purposes.
 

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Oar tower

Here's how I did mine with 1" emt,

One and a quarter inch fence rail sleeves nicely over 1" EMT. I used standard steel oar towers. I sleeved the inner rail with a piece of the fence rail and welded once side of the oar tower to that. That allowed it to pivot toward the center and fold flat. On the outside I welded a piece of 1" bar stock at a 90 degree angle so when the stands were upright, it was right next to the outside rail. I then drilled two holes through the bar stock and outer rail and bolted the towers in, though you could use pins for a quicker release. I copied this from a Payette River Equipment frame.
 

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The key is they pin up to the same spot every time, easily, so the angle of your oarlocks is always the same. Try that with the NRS fittings - - can be done, but you need a wrench/tool and some marks on the pipe to put them back where they were each time. With the rainbows, the angle is always the same and folding them over and standing them back up again is quick and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Swiftwater15, your frame is pretty much what I have in my head. I like your design. I also like the idea of a threaded bolt over a pin for security. How did you finish your frame?
 

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So that's the frame I modeled mine on. Mine was 1" emt. I sprayed the welds with cold galvanizing primer, silver over that. I sprayed the whole thing with clear poly. The PRE frame was powder coated.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Mountain Buzz mobile app
 

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There is a way to make NRS, DRE and Whitewater Machine Works oar towers work on a 1" EMT frame. Weld a short sleeve of the correct diameter tube over the 1' EMT. This sleeve can also be over and reinforce the side weld. If the sleeve is slightly longer, you can also use a NRS, DRE or WWMW's adjustable seat bar.

Question on the PRE style foldable towers. Since they are not removable,
how do you replace, if damaged? A friend built a similar style, but has pins on both sides so it is removable, not foldable. To make this style truly adjustable, it would seem you would need to drill several holes in the 1" outside rail. Is this a good idea? Water intrusion and a weak spot in a long rail?
 

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Good points.

There is a way to make NRS, DRE and Whitewater Machine Works oar towers work on a 1" EMT frame. Weld a short sleeve of the correct diameter tube over the 1' EMT. This sleeve can also be over and reinforce the side weld. If the sleeve is slightly longer, you can also use a NRS, DRE or WWMW's adjustable seat bar.

Question on the PRE style foldable towers. Since they are not removable,
how do you replace, if damaged? A friend built a similar style, but has pins on both sides so it is removable, not foldable. To make this style truly adjustable, it would seem you would need to drill several holes in the 1" outside rail. Is this a good idea? Water intrusion and a weak spot in a long rail?
Good points. I shot spray foam into my outer rail holes to stop water intrusion. I didn't have any problems with strength in the outer rail, but can see how too many holes could create an issue. And no, they are not removable. What happens if you hit something that hard, is that the tubing gets damaged long before the steel oar stand, so you have to replace it anyway. I know this from experience.
 
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