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My dry box doesn't have frame hooks/tabs/whatever, and I'm debating having some welded on. I currently have it slung with a pair of loop straps, and sit on a flip seat on top of it. I haven't noticed much movement once I'm settled, but I haven't run anything really bouncy with it and I'm concerned about it shifting at an inopportune moment. Are there any downsides to having tabs welded on? I feel it would be more solid, but I'm open to the possibility I'm an idiot as well.
 

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I made a set of these. The work well, but took a lot of time. Probably enough time that it might have been worth my while to just buy the NRS ones...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I made a set of these. The work well, but took a lot of time. Probably enough time that it might have been worth my while to just buy the NRS ones...
I'm looking at having tabs welded onto the box itself to sit on my crossbars, not the angle pieces + straps from NRS.
 

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Sean,

Welcome to MountainBuzz. I've always had tabs on my drybox but I keep loop straps over the box to hold it in for those occasional times the boat is, uh... well... not right side up. I'd recommend some tabs for your box but you can probably get by with another set of loop straps over the box in the meantime.

Keep the black side down,

-AH
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sean,

Welcome to MountainBuzz. I've always had tabs on my drybox but I keep loop straps over the box to hold it in for those occasional times the boat is, uh... well... not right side up. I'd recommend some tabs for your box but you can probably get by with another set of loop straps over the box in the meantime.

Keep the black side down,

-AH
Hi Andy - thanks for the welcome.

I currently have two loop straps suspending it, and two over the top to keep it from growing wings, plus my flip seat on the top. It's pretty stable, but I keep wondering if it would be worth the investment to have the tabs welded on for those instances where I need it to be rock solid and not twist when I'm pulling hard. I like to overengineer and overdo everything, so I'll probably start making some calls to local fab shops.

That, and it's Monday morning and I'd rather talk raft gear than work.:D
 

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I understand talking rafts over working....

I don't have tabs per say, I made my box out of wood and it has a lip but not really enough to hang the box from. So I still suspend it with straps. This basic conversation has occurred before and many folks complained about the tabs getting in the way when in camp or in vehicles.

More opinions here: http://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/f44/opinions-on-coolers-and-dry-boxes-55621.html

A search for "dry box tabs" or just "tabs" will likely bring up much more discussion.
 

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Cutting slots into the tabs is a nice idea, one that I've done for my captains boxes years ago. But...I've seen latches compromised on upside down boats, spilling the contents.

I would never not go with a pair of loop straps to secure the lids in rapids were there was a decent chance of carnage.


Sent from my iPhone using Mountain Buzz
 

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Cutting tabs does nothing to compromise a dry box.
It adds to the security.
Must of been a frontier play dry box. Haha.
I strap the 4 tabs and use either 0, 1 or 2 loop straps over the top depending on the river.
 

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I love my tabs on my dry boxes, however both my husband and I have gotten fingers between the tabs and the bars when loading and man that is not fun. We have just loop straps over the top to keep the dry box in.
 

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I like tabs, but instead of angle I used four, one inch square tubes about three inches long so I could wrap a strap around the frame through the square tube around the frame again and back through to attatch.
If the two cam latches on my drybox don't hold the lid on, I have dropped into the Ledge Hole and thats the least of my worries.
 

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I rent gear up in Pocatello as part of my job. 3 dryboxes with tabs are in the inventory. The tabs are nice, fairly dummy proof. But they do take up a bit more storage space. You can mash a finger pretty good. The tabs can gouge boats and wear into coolers if not packed well on bouncy trailers. my 2 personal dryboxes don't have tabs.
I has a couple 2" straps sewn in permamnent loops to suspend the boxes. took some tinkering to get it right. then a couple loop straps over the top.

I use my kitchen box for car camping sometimes. so no tabs for me.
 

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Welding tabs is usually better, but I just bolted full length 1/8'' x 1-1/2'' alum. angle to our kitchen box. Due to the way the dryboxes fit in our Sotar frame, the angle has to run the depth(side dim.) of the box with about 1-1/4'' sticking out of the front of the box for the linch pins to hold it in place on the side frame tube.
 

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Welding tabs is usually better, but I just bolted full length 1/8'' x 1-1/2'' alum. angle to our kitchen box. Due to the way the dryboxes fit in our Sotar frame, the angle has to run the depth(side dim.) of the box with about 1-1/4'' sticking out of the front of the box for the linch pins to hold it in place on the side frame tube.
I have the same set up from Sotar. I ordered my boxes and frame that way, two pins and its not going anywhere and best of all the box latches are self locking, not ever going to pop open. Love it.
 

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Yeah, those are cool latches. Don't know if they're rated "bear proof", but they're darn close. Watch a newbie try to figure them out sometime. :) The way the boxes latch into the frame on our Sotar is one of the things I like about it the most. The "beavertail" stern section of the frame is kinda odd though. Borderline PITA unless you have a ton of straps. It is a frame from '03, so they may have made changes since then.
 
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