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Discussion Starter #124
I remeber your 4wd project, and the toter home
Oh shit. I'm not still that asshole, am I?! :fangers:


And the FToy? Traded it in 2015? for a 97 4Runner with a SC'ed 3400. Never worked on it. Sold it for $4,000 cash this spring (about half what it or the FToy were worth) and put the money into the Dory. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Back to the build. Lots of jointer and shaper time last night.
The square tops are currently 2" x 2.375" (will get outer plates of Walnut to take them to 2 3/8" x 2 3/8").



Tapered down to 1.25" x 1.25" at the tips. Shafts are an oval about 2" x 1 5/8" at the blade roots. Hard to see the taper in these perspective photos!



Then rounded over with a 1" roundover bit. Thanks again to CBRob for this great suggestion. I did get a little tearout up at the square tops, this should get covered by the outer plates. Hard not to get grain tearout with this straight of wood!!
 

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beautiful, just beautiful! But my biggest question is.........








Do you have a freakin' job? Good Christ you're always building cool shit and I can't keep up with all the have to fix/build/do shit much less have time to build something fun. GRRRRRRR, I'm jealous of your life, whatever it is!!!!!!!
I’m kind of jealous as shit of mt4 runners builds myself! I really want to try my hand at some of the cool as shit projects he does, but I fix peoples screwed up houses fo a living, and by the time I get done, and the girlfriend has me work on hers, I don’t feel like picking my tools back up. It’s part of the reason the dory I keep threatening to build, will be a ten year goal, that, and I got some honing to do on my finer woodworking skills!
Digressing from the build though, hope to get to boat with ya both someday.

Matt man
 

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This is a great thread, thanks for all the info.

My question, how on making the oar wrap mallet...do you have any tricks for hollowing the mallet? I have limited woodworking tools and am looking for a cheap tip/trick to making the mallet(I picked up some cheap gull oars for my new Puma setup)...
 

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Discussion Starter #128
I cove-cut mine on my table saw (vids on youtube)


It doesn't have to be high-tech. You could use a half-round rasp or 60-grit sandpaper wrapped around a closet pole or a carlisle oar.




Gulls are inexpensive, but well-built. They've got way more soul than carlisles.

Very cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Nice figured walnut for the square tops. It will be book-matched on either side of the handle. It's going to be gorgeous when sanded and sealed.
 

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Ok-
Just circling back around to this after I re-did the blades and used them for the past few months.
If anyone remembers-my first trial run I found out the blades were WAY to heavy.

They went back into the shop and I removed all the epoxy and orange fiber.
The blades went to essentially 3/16” thickness and are pretty much flat across the face.
Installed new clear fiberglass on the blades, a small strip of Kevlar/carbon on the edges, and some lightweight black cloth tape. I “distressed” the black cloth tape for a worn in look and then added two coats of epoxy.
The re-do was a hassle but totally worth it. I LOVE my oars. They feel great, flex nicely and row, row, row.....
The swing weight issue with the overweight orange blades was solved.

I put up an old picture of the original blades(in orange) for comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Nicely done stelz! I like them even more now--they look like a soft, worn favorite pair of jeans.

Square tops add counterweight, but it's crazy what reducing tip weight does to swing weight, isn't it??! If you have your oarlock at 1/3-2/3, a 1/2oz reduction on the blade is the equivalent of 1oz added at the handle.
 

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I ended up using Kevlar/carbon fiber sleeve that expanded to 2.5"...slid over the oar and pulled tight. Installed about 16" long. My rope wraps ended at 20". Picture shows the sleeve before and after install.
How much of a PITA was the sleeve? Would it be feasible to do it the length of the shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Heck yeah. It's like a chinese finger trap.

You might have a hard time getting a 2" sleeve over a 2.5"+ square top, but like stelz said, it expands to slide and contracts when you pull it tight.

If you go really small, then your fibers will be more circumferential to the oar. If you go large and pull it for length, the fibers will run more longitudinal. Go about right size and you should get both split and bending strength with the fibers near 45°.

2" should be a perfect fit for a non-squaretop oar.

the other tough part is it can be a bit spendy, so you may find yourself buying excess so you know you end up with the right length when you put it on.
 

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Thanks all-
Yeah...I think they look a lot better with clear fiberglass blades.

The sleeve over the shaft was not a hard install. However-I just don’t think it would needed over the length of the entire shaft. It would likely reduce flex significantly. I really enjoy the feel of the flex with wood oars. Especially on strong pulls.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
Ok-
Just circling back around to this after I re-did the blades and used them for the past few months.
If anyone remembers-my first trial run I found out the blades were WAY to heavy.


The re-do was a hassle but totally worth it. I LOVE my oars. They feel great, flex nicely and row, row, row.....
The swing weight issue with the overweight orange blades was solved.
I also forgot to say thank you for circling back and sharing your fix. Really cool to have more data points and real-world feedback to advance the knowledge.

A lot of commercial oars out there suck badly. Building DIY oars is a way to make pretty oars, but people also don't realize that you have an opportunity to make higher-performing oars than you can buy on the market.

Sawyer square tops might sound gimmicky to some, but also realize they took the time to taper the shaft--it's much smaller at the blade neck than it is up at the oarlocks. Strength where it's needed and lightweight where it isn't. This also lowers swing weight. Something you can't do with a Cataract/Carlisle uniform tube. Even Smokers and Gulls have uniform cylinder shafts that could benefit from some thinning.

Almortal, you could have both flex and a CF wrap, but taper your shafts down before adding the wrap. I agree with Stelz; your shaft will be too stiff overall if you leave it a big cylinder and then wrap it.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Quarantined and ran out of interesting things to watch on Netflix and Youtube. So I got bored.

Crazy things happen when I got bored.

As I'd noted way earlier in the thread, I built my oldest 10' oars in 2004. they got thinned down in early 2018, got squaretops and yet thinner blades in fall 2018. One trip on the Main Salmon and that was about the extent of their v3.0 life. I was determined with the advent of my dory to stop rowing with OarRights, and rowed unfeathered the whole trip. The oars always had 1 1/4" diameter handles.

My 9.5' oars were built in about 2010? They also got their blades thinned and got squaretops in 2018. They had an odd tapered handle..I owe it to being a little too zealous in my use of a drawknife and peeling them down too small. They were 1 1/4" dia at the oar loom, and only 1 1/8" out at the tip. Never was a problem with OarRights, but without, I found it was way too small of diameter to grasp...and also found I now disliked the gloss varnish finish.

I used a horseshoe rasp to make sure the old handles were totally cylindrical and ground off the old varnish/epoxy. I then epoxied on sheets of 1/16" ash veneer to wrap around the handle in layers. Cut the veneer slightly longer than the circumference of the handle...the circumference of the sheet is roughly the inner circumference plus the thickness of the veneer times Pi. (or add a -1/8" haha)

Each layer added 1/8" (1/16" x 2) to the handle diameter. I found that the old veneer (it was 20+ years old) was quite brittle and cracked as I bent it...and yet it wouldn't evenly conform. I ended up "breaking" it every 1/4" over the edge of my table saw using a stiff block of wood to make it break evenly. these cracks allowed it to conform well to the curvature of the handle.

After I wrapped the ooey-gooey mess, I'd wrap that with electrical tape (cheap at Harbor Freight, and epoxy doesn't stick to it). Then that wasn't tight enough, so I bound the whole thing tigthly with some copper wire to keep the ash lying flat. Threw a heater on it overnight, then unwrapped the tape and used the horseshoe rasp to knock off the high spots, adjusting each to keep the handle cylindrical. The inner layers didn't have to be pretty, but they couldn't have any high spots that would telegraph their way through upper layers.

The weird cone handle on the 9.5' oars got a half wrap to bring the smaller diameter up to 1 1/4", then it got three full wraps to take the total up to 1 5/8".

The 10' oar handles got 3 full wraps to take it to 1 5/8". The final layer got cracked 3/16" or 1/4" as tight as I could get it so no large cracks would show in the final wrap. I also added some radiator hose clamps to get a couple tighter where the wood wouldn't conform.

I will give them a final sanding tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Oh, and I put a 1 1/4" x 1 5/8" oval on my dory oar handles. As a longtime kayaker, I thought an oval would be cool...but then I found that it was unstable. By pushing or pulling on the narrow end of the oval, it wanted to "trip" and roll in my hand. So, those needed to get rounded.

I stuck with Doug fir since the exposed parts of the handle were still fir.

They also got painted an accent stripe of "Proper Dory Color" Willys Beryl Green.

have one pair to rope wrap.

Oh, and that's my foundry in the background. Still fighting it to get hot enough to cast bronze.
 

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Oh, and that's my foundry in the background. Still fighting it to get hot enough to cast bronze.

Try adding O2 to the propane (get an adaptor for your regulator), and if you want it really hot, switch from propane to propolyne, a much higher purity gas..



A rosebud tip would help, mine is a 250K btu..
 
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