Mountain Buzz banner

81 - 100 of 165 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #81
Thats good work on converting those old oars to square tops!! I always love it when something old you made years ago can be brought back to life again with some creative thinking.
By the way, remember the photo that CBRob posted with his crushed grain under the rope wraps/oarlocks? I yanked the rope wraps off of my oarlocks and also have crushed grain. Mine will get a carbon/glass wrap under my ropes before I put the rope back on.

I will really rough sand the shafts to get all the old varnish and epoxy off, so the new epoxy can saturate well and bond to the carbon/glass. Will do 1 layer of carbon on the bottom for strength, and 2-3 layers of glass over the carbon to spread the load.

Your sleeves are a good idea...think about a double layer of the sleeve material under the rope wraps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
Update on Dustin's oars:

Stained the cherry squaretops.


Shaped the oar blades.


Fiberglassed the faces. Cedar is not very ding-resistant. Single layer of 6oz will make the blades much stronger and tougher.


Flow coat.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
By the way, remember the photo that CBRob posted with his crushed grain under the rope wraps/oarlocks? I yanked the rope wraps off of my oarlocks and also have crushed grain. Mine will get a carbon/glass wrap under my ropes before I put the rope back on.
New oars are getting 3 wraps of 6oz glass and 1 wrap of 3k carbon twill.
A 2" diameter is roughly 6.3" circumference...so I cut the glass a bit over a foot wide and 18" long. The carbon is about 6" x 8".

I pre-saturated the glass and carbon laying flat on a trash bag. (No pictures because I only have two hands and it's a sticky process. I'll add pics when we do the old ones or Dustin's oars.)


Wasn't sure how to order the layup, so I figured the CF was best sandwiched inside the glass. I put a wrap of glass, then the carbon, then wrapped the glass around twice more. Squeegeed the whole thing flat and smooshed the epoxy around. Then I wrapped the whole mess with clear hockey tape to really smash the glass down into the epoxy.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #84
Also shaped the tips. Went for a somewhat traditional "wooden boat oar" tip shape instead of the more common full round. If I beat it up too much, I can always round them more. Based on past experience, the lower corner/curve gets 90% of the abuse.

These will get 6 layers of 6oz glass.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
You under rope wraps look good and should help with preventing the grain crush in a significant way. I don't think it takes much.


I ended up using Kevlar/carbon fiber sleeve that expanded to 2.5"...slid over the oar and pulled tight. Installed about 16" long. My rope wraps ended at 20". Picture shows the sleeve before and after install.

Second pic is wrapped with rope 20" long.

BTW MT4runner. I agree with you for sure on materials for blades. Considering the application I used:
installed a 14 oz twill weave on the blade..1 per side. Then two coats of 4:1 epoxy, each side.
Then, added layer of Kevlar around the tip.

I could have easily built the blades from cedar or spruce) and finished the wood at 1/8" thick before applying all those finishes. I think my blades are over built. But should be bomber.

I'll snap some pics of the blades shortly.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
stelz, that sleeve is really pretty! My friend RG is thinking of using it on his oars, I'll show him.

Your rope wraps look nice, too. Did you buy the Sawyer kits, or buy your own nylon and dye it yourself? Did you try a serving mallet/board?


Thanks too for detailing what you used for CF twill/weight. It will be helpful for me or someone else to refer back to this in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
Wow! What color is the kevlar on the blades--orange...or red?

It will really compliment wood elsewhere on the oars. Those are beautiful. The more I look at them, the more I like them. I really, really like the twill on the blades. It doesn't look too "techy".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #89
Last set for blade glass. RG did a really nice job carving a very pronounced diamond shape into these blades.


We used a bit of tape to get the glass cloth to conform to the blade neck.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Fabric Weights on Blades and shafts

Just gonna update this thread with Fabric weights and a quick process on what I did for any future reference with the Fabric.

The epoxy I used was the Composite envisions 4:1 two part thin epoxy resin system. It mixed well and seem to dry at a consistent time rate. I would use it again.

BLADES--In a previous post I noted the Twill weight as 14 OZ. This was incorrect. I looked back at my purchase order from Composite Envisions(out of WI). I actually used 12.5oz twill weave, one layer of fabric and Two coats of 4:1 epoxy per side. An important note on the epoxy, make sure the 2nd coat is installed on top of the first coat BEFORE it completely dries. The 1st coat Must be tacky so the 2nd coat bonds correctly and they essentially dry as one coat. (as a side note, on a previous set of oars i refinished a few years ago I layed up two coats of epoxy and let the first coat dry in between. The top coat eventually cracked in a few places and is now peeling off with the 1st coat showing beneath)

On the Shafts below the rope wrap. I purchased (from composite envisions) the 7.5 oz 1.5" carbon fiber/kevlar sleeve. This was VERY difficult to get over the square tops. I originally went with Kevlar thinking it would be more "impact" resistant to prevent the rope wrap from crushing the wood grain under the wrap. The largest weave they sold was 1.5" I would recommend getting a 2'-2.5" weave if you have square tops. It would probably go on much easier. I think a fiberglass sleeve would work just fine and provide the protection needed. I installed the weave 16" long and only put one coat of epoxy on. Once dry-I sanded smooth to make sure no burs or un-even lumps were below the rope wrap.

BLADE TPIS-I also installed this 7.5 oz kevlar weave on the blade tips. Because its a sleeve, It is essentially two layers of fabric on the tips. This should really provide some good protection from rocks. Time will tell. This was installed with spray adhesive and two coats of epoxy.

Once the the blades, the blade tips and the shafts were all covered with the twill and sleeves, I applied 4 coats of spar urethane to the shafts and the square top sections. I applied two coats per side of spar urethane to the blades.

My handles get sanded very smooth to 1000 grit and only waxed. I like the feel of the smooth wood. My other wood oars are done this way.

ROPE WRAP- I purchased the SGT KNOTS 3/16" nylon solid braid rope from Amazon. I did some forum searching and a few guys here had some good tips on wrapping. There is some discussion on the nylon vs polypro rope. The sawyer website says their rope is nylon, so thats what I decided on. Im happy with the rope I purchased. I got a 250' roll of black for $38. cut into 4 sections of 62.5' long, my wraps were almost exactly 20" long. If they would have sold a 250" section of orange rope, I would have purchased that. Orange wraps would be kinda cool and totally visible in the water if I lost an oar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Wow! What color is the kevlar on the blades--orange...or red?

It will really compliment wood elsewhere on the oars. Those are beautiful. The more I look at them, the more I like them. I really, really like the twill on the blades. It doesn't look too "techy".
Thanks MT4Runner!! I really like how it turned out too. My only regret was the wood thickness before the twill was applied.

It is orange. Color in the photo is bad.


Your blades are looking great too!! Keep up the good work!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
Update on the remodels:

Decided to put my 9.5' oars on a diet.
Before: 8 lbs, 5oz.

Ran them through the cove sled on the table saw and coved them just like the new oars.
After: 7lbs, 11oz.

8# 5oz - 7# 11oz = 10 oz
9'-6" oars = 114"
32" above the lock, 82" below the lock.

82" x 10oz = 820 oz-lb
(820 oz-lb) / 32 in = 25.6oz

Taking 10oz off the blades is roughly the equivalent of adding 25oz of counterweight. I'll take it!



This moved the balance point 4" up the shaft. I will also re-weigh and re-balance after I glue the last two staves on the square top.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #94
Got everything shaped. Really excited.


Did the math. Scalloping the blades removed about a pound from each oar. Took the edges down from about 5/8" thick to closer to 5/16" thick.



The wood square tops (fir and cherry) added about a pound to each oar.

Remember that losing a pound from the blade is roughly the equivalent of adding two pounds of counterbalance to the handle....so the scalloping + squaretops was generally the equivalent of adding a 3lb counterbalance to each oar...yet they will still float! I'm really excited to try them next spring.

9.5' oars started about 8.3# each (which surprised me...they felt even heavier...but were only blade-heavy), up to about 9.3# with the square tops and back down to about 7.7# final with the scallops. These have the biggest perceived difference in swing weight. Balance point went from 49" from the blade tip (very blade heavy) to 60" from the blade tip. Center point of a 114" oar is 57".

Old 10' oars were about 8.5# each, up to 9.3# with the squaretops and back down to 8.6# with the blades coved. Center point moved from 56" from the blade tip to 66" from the blade tip. These didn't have as much weight savings with the cove--as I had already thinned them quite a bit back in June when I first refinished them. Who in their right mind would refinish oars twice in one year?!?!



(New 10' oars are balanced at 63" from the blade tip...need to weigh them).


Old blades also got a mild profile reshape. The 9.5' oars used to be a full 7" from shoulder to tip. They're now a bit under 6.25" at the shoulder and still 7" at the tip. The 10' oars were 6.5" all the way and are now a bit under 6" at the shoulder and still 6.5" at the tip. I think it's a bit more aesthetically pleasing and they look a lot more like Pete Culler oars.





All oars got the glass/epoxy wrap to go under the rope wraps and hopefully avoid grain crushing from the oarlocks:



All the kids lined up:



With epoxy flowcoat:



Varnishing this weekend and then rope wrap time. I'm going to reinstall the old ropes on the old oars...the rope is still in decent condition and I like the "river-worn patina".

New oars will either get natural white nylon wraps or I may stain them a cherry/burgundy color to compliment the wood color.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
Flow-coated, cured for 4-5 days (use a small electric heater under a tarp to raise the local temps...epoxy cures harder at higher temps). Washed with hot water, dish soap, and Simple Green to remove any traces of blush. Amine blush turns into sticky goo if you add varnish, but comes off easily with soap. Go figure.



And sanded. Time for varnish.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #96
Time for varnish.

There are some sags and drips. I'll put on 3 heavy brush coats and let it harden, then give it a good sanding and final coat will be sprayed.


I love the figuring on some of these pieces..on my oldest oars. :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
MT4Runner and stetz...awesome work. I too have have been working on some oars in my off season, so I thought I'd chime in with some notes and pics from my project.

I found some really nice CVG doug fir boards, so I started by laminating those into beams with Titebond III. I started with 3X3 boards because I was going to use a buddy's giant lathe, but he didn't end up getting it, so I opted for hand tools. I used a hand plane, spoke shave and draw knife to take the beams from 4 sides to 8 sides (except I left the blade section at 4 sides. Then I removed material below the counterbalance (an "oct-top" rather than a square top) to make a progressive tapered shaft. I used chisels, a draw knife and spoke shave to carve the handles. Here are pics of all that....

https://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e153/bhelsten/IMG_3196.jpg

Some compass work for placing the lines down the shaft to go from 4 sides to 8 sides:

https://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e153/bhelsten/IMG_3196.jpg

https://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e153/bhelsten/IMG_3214.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
If you’re wondering how I rounded and tapered the shaft section below the counterbalance and blade, I started by going from 4 sides to 8 sides, then 8 sides to 16 sides, then I took off the edges to get 32 sides, then I did the rest by eye/sanding. To get the taper, I roughly used this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgJoj7zvlyc . Basically, the diameter of the resulting shaft will roughly correspond to the wide of the square beam you use to scribe the lines. So you just make a mark for the lines on the fat end of the shaft based on the desired diameter and make a mark on the bottom end of the shaft based on the desired diameter, and use a straightedge (i.e., straight board with a good edge to draw a line connecting them. Then you just plane off the corners to the line on all four sides. To go from 8 sides to 16 with a taper, you can make a spar gauge, which will follow the taper you created at the previous step. Here’s a how to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvtV-HvNYmY You can also just do it by eye, which is basically what I did because my spar gauge made shitty lines. If you make a spar gauge, use a pencil (not at nail) to scribe the lines down the shaft. Here’s a shot of the oars once that step was finished.



To make the blades, I laminated a strip of cherry (for aesthetics and because I had it) on each side of the dough fir beam, and then I laminated a few pieces of ash outside of that for impact resistance. All blades pieces were ¾” by 1/5” laminated in the center of a 2.5” x 2.5” beam, so I used a drawknife and plane to remove the excess beam and get it flat. Then I traced my blade shape and cut it out with a jig saw (this was my only power tool use except for a palm sander at the end). Here’s some shots of that process:






After that I used a hand plane and spoke shave to shape and thickness the blade. I think I probably left them too thick in the middle there’s a fairly burly rib running down the center that tapers to the blade edges in sort of a convex shape. I probably could have lost some more wood/weight, but I decided to build my first set Skookum as frig, consider them beaters, and see how they hold up. I am currently in the process of fiberglass/epoxy reinforcing the blades, and spar varnishing the shafts. I’ll eventually spar varnish the blades as well. I’ll add rope wrap and grips at the end. Turns out, I’m better at working with wood than with fiberglass and epoxy. That said, I think they’ll be fine once I do the finishing work. Here’s some more recent shots:









Hopefully I’ll have these girls on the water in a couple weeks. My plan is to test them for a while, then build a super duper nice set based on how these work out. I’ll post more pics when they’re done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Dragking
How did your oars turn out? Have they seen the water?

And an update on mine. I finally made it to the river with my new oars and the blades are TOO heavy. I love the orange fiberglass and they are bomber...but I'm going to take them back to the shop and plane off a huge amount of material on the blades to make them lighter.

I'll post some more pics and info in an attempt to keep the thread useful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,368 Posts
Discussion Starter #100
Not sure how I missed Dragking's excellent post. Thank you!!


I haven't used mine yet, nor the old ones since the "remodel", but will here in a couple weeks.

Yeah, stelz, light blades make an enormous difference in swing weight.
 
81 - 100 of 165 Posts
Top