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I've never done the Poudre as I would like someone to go with my 1st time and none of my friends have run it.
Just PM'd you my info...
 

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I've never done the Poudre as I would like someone to go with my 1st time and none of my friends have run it.
Just PM'd you my info...
Hit me up if you guys end up going sometime, and want another boat.
Still need to get down the powder.
So many rivers, so little time!
 

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Poudre, auto correct is to helpful for its own good.
 

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Powder was an accurate translation. Powder stash is the full translation
 

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Powder was an accurate translation. Powder stash is the full translation

I learned to kayak on the Poudre and know it well from Stevens Gulch down to Bridges, and also the Baby Duck run. I've never run any upper sections and was never a good enough boater to run the Narrows (V)



I just don't like to boat alone, particularly when it starts to get up above 2 1/2 - 3 feet.
 

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Below are photos of my new anchor set up on the super puma.

Running the anchor line along the floor and out the bottom was the main objective. This keeps the top side of the tubs less cluttered, less things to tangle in a bad cast. I also wanted an anchor system for R2 paddle fishing with no frame.

I ran a section of smooth plastic tubing through a gap in the stern floor lacing. This tubing is like 3/4” inner diameter. Flexible but stiff.

Inside the raft, I passed the tubing through a few sections of floor lacing. In the rowers compartment, I drilled three small holes in the end of black plastic tube, and then used these holes to secure the tube in place with black zip ties.

Tied in my pulley/rope bite in the rowers compartment , ran the line through the tube. Cut a length wise oval opening in the plastic. Added pulleys and anchor. Done. I actually think I am going run the anchor without the 2:1 pulley on the anchor.
 

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FD, that's brilliant!

I don't fish, but I respect the creativity in this solution. I can see a lot of people copying it. Better patent the FlyingDutchman Super Anchor Fairlead system.


I'd also like to see more pics of that seat. Looks crazy simple.
 

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My rowers seat is simply a piece of 5/8” plywood bolted directly to the cross bar and covered with a foam pad and wrapped in white gorilla tape (yes I drilled holes through the cross bar).
There are also 2x3s screwed into the plywood that stick out a little and are padded and wrapped in black gorilla tape. The purpose of these 2x3s was to serve as a yoke for turtling the raft with the frame attached (simple day frame that is, with the oar locks removed from the towers to save two pounds). It’s a hell of a turtle about 140 pounds, but for portages along footpaths, it is doable. The black 2x3s also make good handles when I am getting chuddered in a hole, LOL.
 

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Nice. I run the NRS atomic aluminum oarlocks on my day frame.
It's surprising that 2# is actually noticeable on a light rig!
 

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Any recommendations for sewing webbing for straps? I have a bunch of 1 inch webbing and just picked up 20 buckles from strapworks.

I don't have a sewing machine, so plan on just sewing by hand. THey will not be load bearing, just for rigging (table, drop bag cover, canyon cooler, bowline, etc.
 

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patience and plenty of beers.
Sewing on a machine is SOOOOOOO much easier/faster x 1000! I usually sew 3 bars like you find in climbing webbing and then I run a box around the bars.
 

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Any recommendations for sewing webbing for straps? I have a bunch of 1 inch webbing and just picked up 20 buckles from strapworks.

I don't have a sewing machine, so plan on just sewing by hand. They will not be load bearing, just for rigging (table, drop bag cover, canyon cooler, bowline, etc.
If they are not load bearing, just use a couple pop rivets.... sized appropriately (thickness wise)
 

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If they are not load bearing, just use a couple pop rivets.... sized appropriately (thickness wise)
Thanks Elk, gonna have to try that one!
 

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for years I made straps using pop rivets. Just make sure you get backing washers on the end without the shoulder. I finally bit the bullet and bought an old Singer somewhere around an 1950 model. I use the thread that Strapworks sells and a #18 needle. I have now made hundreds of straps for myself and friends, and a lot of other things for rafting and hunting. I also picked up an old White machine a friend was giving away. It works fine also. any of the older machines that are made out of metal will handle straps. I do break a needle once in a while but am very happy with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Any recommendations for sewing webbing for straps? I have a bunch of 1 inch webbing and just picked up 20 buckles from strapworks.

I don't have a sewing machine, so plan on just sewing by hand. THey will not be load bearing, just for rigging (table, drop bag cover, canyon cooler, bowline, etc.
You can also try using Chicago Screws. They wont leave such a sharp and pointy metal side like the rivets will. If you take a torch and heat up an old screwdriver, punch it through the webbing and then use the chicago screws it should be pretty strong. The hot screwdriver will even weld the webbing a little when you push it through adding a little more strength.
 
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