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Salmonjammer
Yeah, the slots in the lid works awesome for a raft garbage can. I also drill holes in the bottom so it drains. You throw your raft day garbage in your hand wash system? Seems like a sanitation issue in the making to me unless your real careful about cleaning it before deploying it at camp. Thinking about it I quess beer cans and such maybe OK but snoty kleenex or something nasty not so much.
 

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Table

Here is a photo of a table we use under the captain's set on our cat frames. I have sewn a bag into the frame, then set the table on top. The hole allows access but doesn't effect the usefullness of the table. I also made an aluminum plate that fits the hole, and has a hole in it that i set burner in and hook the extra hose off of the propane tree and it give us an extra burner. I tie the legs up so that the don't fall into the bag. we call it the 'front hold' and put stuff in that doesn't matter if it gets wet. The notches on the sides allow the chair brackets to reach the tubes.
 

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Soft Materials Supplier

I recently found Rockywoods Fabric, and really like what I saw. I am working on some zipper repairs and making a duffle for my dining canopy, so got a bunch of zipper cars, some cordura, thread and some ripstop.

They do free pickups if you come by, located in Loveland Colorado.
http://www.rockywoods.com/
 

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This is a valve adapter that I made for a cheap Harbor Freight 12v air compressor, to help me fill up my SUPs. I use the 12v Coleman blower 1st to get the bulk of the air in, then use this to finish the job. It is still not very fast, but it beats doing it myself, and frees me up to work on other things.
 

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And here is the boat hanger I made to store duckies in the garage. I have 2, the other one has a partially inflated tandem on it. I use a block and tackle to facilitate hanging, though I need to rework it because the friction is currently making it really tough to lift.

Great thread BTW.
 

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Hoist

I store all my (and several friends) boats overhead in my shop. I use a hoist from Harbor Freight (second one, first one burned out, over use) to lift everything up. My Granddad had a slaughter house on his farm, and I appropriated a couple of the meat hooks, then made rail out of angle iron and fastened it to the purlins. Platform is a piece of 3/4 plywood
 

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I have made a 4 rafting pads with PVC from a truck tarp maker and valves off of Amazon. 26 inches wide, 3 inches thick, and about 6'8" long. Cost per pad was 70 dollars with most of that cost going to the foam (who knew nice foam cost 50 dollars). I went with white for heat control and am really happy with the color. During the process, I found out that having a nice heat gun and some jigs to hold things makes a huge difference (I had neither), so I ended up gluing them rather than welding. So far, they are holding up great.

Here's a link to the thread I made on it while figuring things out.

http://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/f44/diy-raft-pads-am-i-nuts-60069.html
 

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Never enough free time
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Great thread! I’m still interested in building my own oars. Have good, straight, clear Douglas Fir that I can use for the endeavor. What I’m not clear on is how to round out the shafts and particularly how to articulate the grips. Other suggestions I could use are how to treat/protect the blades (epoxy, fiberglass, plastidip, heat shrink, etc. I’m thinking pins and clips would be more straight forward than sleeves. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Shoeless Musings: Oars

This guy is a very good friend of mine. He built his own dory as well. We have a +100 mile Yellowstone trip coming up next week. Point being that these oars are river proven.

Skip the sleeves and do a rope wrap. He's got that on his blog as well. I just used his serving mallet to wrap my new Cataracts before my Ruby Horsethief trip last month. Worked like a charm.

I've got a monstrous Fir in my yard that need to come down and I'll be cutting boards out of it for my own oars..
 

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I have made a 4 rafting pads with PVC from a truck tarp maker and valves off of Amazon. 26 inches wide, 3 inches thick, and about 6'8" long. Cost per pad was 70 dollars with most of that cost going to the foam (who knew nice foam cost 50 dollars). I went with white for heat control and am really happy with the color. During the process, I found out that having a nice heat gun and some jigs to hold things makes a huge difference (I had neither), so I ended up gluing them rather than welding. So far, they are holding up great.

Here's a link to the thread I made on it while figuring things out.
Might want to consider adding "corner condoms" to the pads similar to what Jacks does...
 

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My new sideboards... Wood burned map markings, grooved out river channel with Dremmel tool and filled with urethane and glitter mix. Then coated with 4 layers of urethane and sprinkled with Trex sand for grip.
 

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Foot Pump

It cost a little bit more but I find this one much better. The foot pump is a little easier to use, it outputs slightly more water per pump and I like the smaller overall footprint that the system has. Also the square buckets are great for stacking on top of each other. Either with a lid or we fabricated some little aluminum tabs that hook on the edge of the small bucket and allow the top bucket to rest over the bottom bucket giving you a better height for your wash station.

NRS DRE Handwash Station
I just searched for the Whale foot pump used on the NRS/DRE setup, and found this one for $24 w/free shipping. Looks pretty similar for half the price. I just ordered one, and I'll let you guys know how it works when it shows up in a few days.
 
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