DIY Gear porn thread

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missiongravity

Discussion Starter · Apr 5, 2018

8

I am a person who enjoys making their own gear and I am sure many of you others are as well! Let's see those homemade drop bags, drag bags, tables, utensil holders etc. DISCLAIMER: I am not a gear company looking to rip your designs etc, just a guy who has a sewing machine and likes sitting in front of it!

Here are a few items I have made lately. Don't have any pics of my drop bags or gear bags but will try and get some.

Drag Bags(first design):

Map Book Case:

Sand Stake:

Med Kit:

Cup Holder:

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missiongravity

Discussion Starter · #561 · 2 mo ago

If you are using the rotopax hold downs for those water jugs you should get extensions for them that allow you to use them as what holds your table down. Simply cut out the same size opening...slide the table down over the rotopax turn to lock mount things and voila...mounted table AND rotopax. If you are ever running without the table but the rotopax they should spin back down tight enough to still mount just the rotopax.

Rotopax mount and info on extensions

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Bootboy

· #562 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

missiongravity said:
If you are using the rotopax hold downs for those water jugs you should get extensions for them that allow you to use them as what holds your table down. Simply cut out the same size opening...slide the table down over the rotopax turn to lock mount things and voila...mounted table AND rotopax. If you are ever running without the table but the rotopax they should spin back down tight enough to still mount just the rotopax.

Rotopax mount and info on extensions

While not rotopax brand, that is an interesting thought. I’ll have to see if such a system is available from Expedition One.

And it just occurred to me, I’ll take a handful of the stainless triglides, a small roll of webbing, and a handful of cam buckles for incidental rigging that may need to be improvised ad hoc on the trip.

MT4Runner

· #563 · 2 mo ago

Bootboy said:
Bought a sheet of ACX that I’m contemplating cutting to the dimensions of the bottom of the bag for a floor. Debating to run it inside, or outside of the bag.

my brain says that soft stuff could still push down on the floor...where a hung floor will keep anything from pushing your floor down toward rocks.
I can't disagree with what you're thinking, though...if you have only soft stuff on the bottom, rocks should matter far less.

Usually I drop my groover in the center back right behind the drybox, so I like it sitting on a board.

I put my board inside my bag and store/rig/use the two in tandem.

BenSlaughter

· #564 · 2 mo ago

My beaver board has been a game changer for me. I gained cubic feet of storage in my stern, and kept the weight off my floor.

The only downside is that I USE that space! 😄

Bootboy

· #565 · 2 mo ago

Ok, out comes the track saw and measuring tape.

The floor on my bag has D-rings sewn on already, so whether I run the floor inside or outside of the bag, it can be easily centered on it.

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Iamquigley

· #566 · 2 mo ago

Bootboy said:
Bag is coming together. Just need to put the 30” wall around the remaining 180°.

Really glad I went with the tapered bottom that give me so much more room in the top of the bag. View attachment 86495

Bought a sheet of ACX that I’m contemplating cutting to the dimensions of the bottom of the bag for a floor. Debating to run it inside, or outside of the bag.

Or maybe I’ll just skip the floor all together and put soft stuff in the bottom.

Thoughts? View attachment 86496
View attachment 86497

I also run a beaver board/bag combo and played around with the same question you are wrestling with right now. Started with a homemade, plywood beaver board and then added the bag one year during a Christmas sale (thanks santa!) Knew I wanted to use both to keep hard stuff off the floor just wasn't sure inside/outside. Ultimately I ended up suspending the beaver board and then putting the bag on top of it. The board-in-bag combo meant that the board was never truly "floating" (this might be different depending on the size/shape of your board/bag) and altogether was just awkward. It also made my floor valve a pain to get to (beaver board has a cutout so when it's under the bag a quick check/adjust for pressure in the morning before I load the bag means I'm good for the day). I am a big advocate of floating everything I can off the floor (YMMV) so the floor has room to rise and fall without pinching if I've had a few too many sodas and I'm running over rocks. Really the only drawback of this setup that I considered is that you then have the mesh material of the bag sandwiched between hard items and the board, potentially increasing wear and decreasing lifespan. Ultimately, with the board in play, the bottom of the bag isn't doing much anyways so I wasn't too concerned but will keep an eye out for longevity with this setup. If it starts to wear early I'll dream up something different but that's half the fun anyways.

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Bbfozzy

· #567 · 2 mo ago

Iamquigley said:
I also run a beaver board/bag combo and played around with the same question you are wrestling with right now. Started with a homemade, plywood beaver board and then added the bag one year during a Christmas sale (thanks santa!) Knew I wanted to use both to keep hard stuff off the floor just wasn't sure inside/outside. Ultimately I ended up suspending the beaver board and then putting the bag on top of it. The board-in-bag combo meant that the board was never truly "floating" (this might be different depending on the size/shape of your board/bag) and altogether was just awkward. It also made my floor valve a pain to get to (beaver board has a cutout so when it's under the bag a quick check/adjust for pressure in the morning before I load the bag means I'm good for the day). I am a big advocate of floating everything I can off the floor (YMMV) so the floor has room to rise and fall without pinching if I've had a few too many sodas and I'm running over rocks. Really the only drawback of this setup that I considered is that you then have the mesh material of the bag sandwiched between hard items and the board, potentially increasing wear and decreasing lifespan. Ultimately, with the board in play, the bottom of the bag isn't doing much anyways so I wasn't too concerned but will keep an eye out for longevity with this setup. If it starts to wear early I'll dream up something different but that's half the fun anyways.

I was always under the impression that the proper place for the floor valve is in the bow of the boat, so that it may be accessed easily, and with a screen over the blow off to keep the sand out.

Reactions: 1

Iamquigley

· #568 · 2 mo ago

Bbfozzy said:
I was always under the impression that the proper place for the floor valve is in the bow of the boat, so that it may be accessed easily, and with a screen over the blow off to keep the sand out.

You are probably correct, although it wouldn't change my thoughts on the board/bag combo much because of the floating issues. My boat came (used) with an extra d-ring glued in the center (inside) of the "back" (above floor valve) and I've since added two more (inside) on either side (outside the badges are directly where I would want to put them) to hang the board and secure the bag from so until I get around to gluing some in the other end the valve goes in the back. Front would 100% be more convenient but that's the way she goes.

MT4Runner

· #569 · 2 mo ago

Bbfozzy said:
I was always under the impression that the proper place for the floor valve is in the bow of the boat, so that it may be accessed easily, and with a screen over the blow off to keep the sand out.

yes--if it's a symmetrical boat. Some asymmetrical boats have the floor valve in the stern.

Many symmetrical boats have the floor valve in the stern (by the USCG number plate) but you can still run that in front.

Bootboy

· #570 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Hood Comfort Automotive design Grey Luggage and bags

Finished the bag shape. I filled it with empty dry bags and couch cushions to fill it out. Pretty happy with how it came out. Just need to sew the webbing around the top and add either D-rings or grommets for the drawstring closure.

I’m making a lid for the whole thing that is matched to the top centerline of the tubes.

Should round out this project nicely.

I’ve learned much about how to improve this bag and I’m already tempted to sell this one after this trip and make another one to satisfy to perfectionist tendencies.

I’ll get more pictures of the completed bag on my Grand trip. T-minus 5 days til launch!

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Bootboy

· #571 · 2 mo ago

2

Lid is almost done. I just can’t make up my mind on wether to do cam buckles, d rings, round rings, or long straps on the corners.

Webbing is already trimmed so I guess that rules out the cleanest way to do integrated straps.

My inclination is round rings so I can girth hitch cam straps to them and pull DOWN to tighten it, rather than up with integrated straps. The d rings are perhaps a bit small. I’ll let you know what I decide tomorrow (last sewing day before packing it all up) in the trailer

Wood Rectangle Flooring Shade Floor

Also helped my friend make a lid for her existing bag. We strapped it onto my boat for a quick visual check. Her boat shape/layout os the same as mine.

Picture frame Automotive design Floor Flooring Wood

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Chapmatterson31

· #572 · 2 mo ago

2

Textile Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle

Azure Textile Sleeve Mesh Creative arts

I made a mesh bag for straps and things. Turned out a lot bigger than I anticipated and sewing in the "daisy chain" webbing was way more difficult than I would have thought. But that might be because I was sewing from the "outside" so the cleaner stitching was on the outside of the bag. I would have done it the other way but I am currently having some tension issues with my machine that I can't quite get sorted right now. (I always thought the strip of webbing with loops to attach things to it was called a daisy chain, but after miserably failed google/youtube search to get tips on how to make it easier, it turns out I am wrong.)

Oh, and croc for scale.

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Whitewater Worthy Equip

· #573 · 2 mo ago

Put a different color thread on top vs bobbin and it will be obvious how to fix the tension.

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MT4Runner

· #574 · 2 mo ago

Bootboy said:
Lid is almost done. I just can’t make up my mind on wether to do cam buckles, d rings, round rings, or long straps on the corners.

I'm not convinced that a pair of d-rings would keep a lid secure in a big maytagging...or are you thinking single d-rings from which to connect a cam strap?

I just set big grommets in the top hem of my bag, cinch it with a couple cam straps, then built a "spider" with 6 cam buckles around a 2" round ring. Hitch some 5' loop straps to the outer boat d-rings and then up to the spider to secure. OK, with only 6 legs, it's better termed an "insect" than a "spider" so sue me! haha

Chapmatterson31 said:
View attachment 86684 View attachment 86687

I made a mesh bag for straps and things.

I built one like that and use it ALL the time. I put d-rings on the outside so I can lash it to a thwart or hang it between my crossbars. It's a strap/thwart/captains bag all in one.

Tip: reinforce the end where your zipper separates, and leave a bit of a tab sticking out so you can grab it when zipping/unzipping.

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Chapmatterson31

· #575 · 2 mo ago

MT4Runner said:
I'm not convinced that a pair of d-rings would keep a lid secure in a big maytagging...or are you thinking single d-rings from which to connect a cam strap?

I just set big grommets in the top hem of my bag, cinch it with a couple cam straps, then built a "spider" with 6 cam buckles around a 2" round ring. Hitch some 5' loop straps to the outer boat d-rings and then up to the spider to secure. OK, with only 6 legs, it's better termed an "insect" than a "spider" so sue me! haha

I built one like that and use it ALL the time. I put d-rings on the outside so I can lash it to a thwart or hang it between my crossbars. It's a strap/thwart/captains bag all in one.

Tip: reinforce the end where your zipper separates, and leave a bit of a tab sticking out so you can grab it when zipping/unzipping.

Thanks for the tip! I was thinking about adding some webbing tabs on each end of the bag on each end to re-enforce the zipper and could attach some carabiners to. Maybe I'll change it up a bit and just use D-rings.

MT4Runner

· #576 · 2 mo ago

That's another thing I've learned. Don't attach your bag inline with your zipper. If your straps are pulled tight, it's hard to flex the zipper/bag opening enough to get anything large (water bottle) in and out. I have a captain's bag under my knees in my dory and it's hard to get my hand and a sunscreen tube out.
The bag needs to flex for the opening to open. (I hope this makes sense!)

Put the d-rings on your handle webbing or on the end of your bag a few inches offset from the zipper. I'd keep the load away from the zipper so it doesn't wear out--no Dring or 'biners. Just tabs.

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Bootboy

· #577 · 2 mo ago

MT4Runner said:
I'm not convinced that a pair of d-rings would keep a lid secure in a big maytagging...or are you thinking single d-rings from which to connect a cam strap?

I just set big grommets in the top hem of my bag, cinch it with a couple cam straps, then built a "spider" with 6 cam buckles around a 2" round ring. Hitch some 5' loop straps to the outer boat d-rings and then up to the spider to secure. OK, with only 6 legs, it's better termed an "insect" than a "spider" so sue me! haha

I built one like that and use it ALL the time. I put d-rings on the outside so I can lash it to a thwart or hang it between my crossbars. It's a strap/thwart/captains bag all in one.

Tip: reinforce the end where your zipper separates, and leave a bit of a tab sticking out so you can grab it when zipping/unzipping.

The lid would have 6 points of attachment.

3 along the base, and then one in each of the remaining corners.

MT4Runner

· #578 · 2 mo ago

Sorry, I meant I wasn't sure if a double D-ring strap (instead of cams) would hold in a maytag situation, but I'm not even sure if that's what you meant.

Font Office supplies Rectangle Material property Magenta

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Bootboy

· #579 · 2 mo ago

MT4Runner said:
Sorry, I meant I wasn't sure if a double D-ring strap (instead of cams) would hold in a maytag situation, but I'm not even sure if that's what you meant.
View attachment 86707

Oh I gotcha. I’m using cams regardless of where and how I attach the lid to the boat. Just not sure where to position them. E.g: Do I use cam straps that are separate from lid and run them through rings on the lid, or do I attach cams directly to the corners on the lid.

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MT4Runner

· #580 · 2 mo ago

I'd say rings and loop straps for flexibility.

Or cams on the corners and loop straps from the boat d-rings (so you're pulling down to tighten)

Reactions: 1

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