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Hers my take on the volcano. View attachment 63028
I'm about to build my own with a 50 cal ammo box and black pipe like you did. Is that fire blanket at the bottom? Did you use tape or putty for the joints or just tighten them down? Also, you welded tabs to support the grate and stones. Would it work to rest the grate on the black pipe with light weight lava rock on a 50 cal size, or should I work out a support system for the grate? It looks like the weight of the rocket box version required supporting the pipe. Should I do the same with the 50 cal version? Thanks for the info.
 

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My guess: fire blanket is not necessary for river use, but will keep the bottom cooler if you were using it on a wood deck or similar.
teflon tape/dookie not necessary on the joints...you've got way more flow out the holes and the burner tube never sees any pressure that would let any appreciable gas out the threads.

Probably need some support on the pipe on the far end away from the can penetration--even lightweight, that's a lot of weight on one compression connection through the can wall.

IMHO a 20mm version is overkill....that's a ton of box weight and depth/volume for a moderate increase in burner length/box area. A Fat50 ammo can would be a great upgrade from the standard 50cal.
 

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Thanks, that's what I thought about pipe weight and teflon, but I've never made a gas firepit, so I wanted to make sure. I would likely use it in all kinds of situations so a cooler bottom would likely be a good thing. I don't have a welding blanket to sacrifice, but I have some left over fiberglass batting. Would that be an acceptable heat shield if I pulled it away from the backing?

I like the idea of the Fat50. I think I'll dial in my technique with this one and then give it as a gift and make myself the Fat50.
 

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Fiberglass melts at about 1000° Should be fine.
(red hot steel is somewhere around 800°F but with that much airflow, you're not likely to get above dull red on the burner -- just like your bbq -- and dull red is only 600°F)

And an air gap is a better thermal barrier to keep the glass from melting than direct contact.

Oh--and a false bottom is also a great heat shield - you'd then have two air gaps: one between the heat shield and burner, one between the heat shield and bottom of the can. Could have a third air gap if you raise the can above the surface it's sitting on. Similar rationale for heat shields on the exhaust in your car...if you separate those bodies of air with a thin sheet of steel, the two bodies of air are different temperatures. [/nerd]
 

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Finished product. It was a really fun build. It works great on a large propane cylinder, but when I tried the 1 lbs it was so small the cylinder got covered with frost from the evaporation rate and couldn't keep up. It started putting out 6 inch flames after 5-10 minutes. Later, after it warmed up I layed it near the box to pick up some heat and it did better.
Also, while the jet sound was cool and the 4+ foot flames are fun, I don't know that I need the top end of the 20 psi regulator.
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Sick
I want to build one with dual ports. One is straight gas and acts like a firepit. The other has a Venturi to make a blue flame and act as a grill
 

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Or the $7 WalMart Ozark Trail knockoff colster. Probably made in the same factory in between Yeti runs.

I need to build a dish drying rack and pot hammock
Tempted to build a new mesh seat for my camper chair so rain falls through it and I don’t have to try to keep it dry.
A dish drying hanging mesh "pocket" with a front pocket for utensils + pot hammock is next on my list of things to make. I am gonna try using black Sling Chair fabric with a 2" strip of PVC to line the bottom of the utensil pocket (with some drain holes punched) to prevent knives from cutting the mesh. I will be basically copying the dish washing hammock from Salamander with 1" stainless d-rings in the corners instead of sewn in cam buckles and webbing - this will make replacing the hanging hardware as easy as grabbing another strap out of the bag in case of meltage/damage.

Front porch for cot using sling chair fabric, it rolls up around the folded cot and fits in the pouch:
Blue Tent Rectangle Shade Tarpaulin
 

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A friend of mine gave me his old broken LVM pump. Got it fixed, and figured I'd make a little slicker of a setup than a pump and 12v battery rattling around in a 50 cal ammo can.

Got an ammo can, then designed and 3D printed a frame for the 12v 15ah battery. For the electronics, I got a volt meter, switch, and a relay to control on/off for power to the plug (looking back, I'd probably just wire the battery to the straight to the connector, and tap into the power with the switch to just control the volt meter, and not worry about controlling power to the plug).

The piece that sticks up in the back corner of the battery braces against the lid when closed. This locks the battery in place - I can shake the ammo can as hard as I want in any direction, and the battery doesn't move.

I also put a connector on battery clamps in case I run the battery dead and want to use the pump on a nearby car battery. Also made a connector for my battery charger to charge through the built-in connector.

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Print quality ended up being crap, but perfectly functional.
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The solder that held the upper trigger contact had fatigued and cracked, and the contact was loose in the housing. Cleaned off the old solder and applied new, and it was back up and running.
Nice, reduce. Reuse. Recycle. I've felt mine get warm every time I use it. Bet eventually this will happen to mine. I do like your outfit not needing the car to blow up the raft.
 

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Just did these in my shop.

Custom drybox hanger brackets.

0.125 5052 aluminum plate with milled slots and bent in my mini hydraulic press.

Rectangle Wood Road surface Asphalt Flooring


I’ll grind and sand the sharp corners down tomorrow.
 

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Spent last night making about 3 dozen straps.

Heavy duty with 3000# polyester and Roller Cam buckles.

Light duty (for non-critical applications) with 1000# polyester webbing and heavy duty plastic buckles.

I used colored tags to indicate strap length

Automotive tire Tread Rectangle Font Synthetic rubber
 

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Whipped up a quick seat pad for my dry box. 1” closed-cell foam encapsulated in 22oz pvc with grommets on the ends. 36x13. I applied spray adhesive to the foam and fabric and to keep it from separating, after the ends were sealed up, I drew all the air out with a big syringe and big blunt needle. I then sealed the tiny hole and the whole thing is basically vacuum sealed.


I’ll just run my box hold-down straps over the top to keep it in place. After I get home next week I’m going to make some straps and rivet some snaps into the lid.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Vehicle Office equipment
 

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Whipped up a quick seat pad for my dry box. 1” closed sell foam encapsulated in 22oz pvc with grommets on the ends. 36x13. I applied spray adhesive to the foam and fabric and to keep it from separating, after the ends were sealed up, I drew all the air out with a big syringe and big blunt needle. I then sealed the tiny hole and the whole thing is basically vacuum sealed.


I’ll just run my box hold-down straps over the top to keep it in place. After I get home next week I’m going to make some straps and rivet some snaps into the lid.
Looks like MT4runner has some serious competition in the DIY field.. ..
 
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