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The problem is you can't rest the cooler lip on the frame without making the latches a pita to open. I've used the p-cord thru the latches with mixed results.
 

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Built this "riser" from some left over HDO. Don't extend it so it interferes with the latches on the end. For the middle latch, used a dremel tool to create enough space to get your finger in there. Attached the riser with heavy duty double sided velcro (only to hold it in place when not on the raft). This created enough space to not rub on the floor/pinch hazard
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You can get some plastic cutting board material and screw it right into the cooler, similar to the wood in Rando's post.
I've thought about doing this a few times, but I've wondered if the screws would compromise some of the cooler's technology. Would it still keep cool as well if I started drilling holes in it?
 

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I've thought about doing this a few times, but I've wondered if the screws would compromise some of the cooler's technology. Would it still keep cool as well if I started drilling holes in it?
I see it as no different from adding the snap fasteners for the cushions people put on their yetis and other roto coolers. Or the screws they mount the latches with. The screw fills the hole. A little silicone with the screw if you're worried. The insulation comes from the foam inside the shell.
 

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Kinda frustrating that a cooler made by and marketed to rafters intended to sit on frame rails has this issue. I got mine this fall and found these latches to be difficult to open. (downriver frame, 1.25 inch pipe). Not a deal breaker at all, but one of those annoying things I think about every time I use the latch. I love a good hack though! Maybe Canyon will adjust these models in the future based on this feedback
 

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The latches on the prospector are really disappointing considering how great the rest of the cooler is. I’ve broken each latch probably 4 times. Hot summer trip? Rubber latch gets soft and the metal pin pulls through. Warranty is A+ but the latches on the navigator or any pro series cooler are soooo much better.
 

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1 1/2” rubber pipe couplers on your cross bars. It raises the cooler about a 1/4”.

I run the canyon 150. It has different latches then the 103 so opening it has never been an issue. I like having extra space between the cross bar and cooler to be able to get straps through if needed.

I opted not to use the metal hose clamps on the coupler. The less sharp metal in my boat the better.


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1 1/2” rubber pipe couplers on your cross bars. It raises the cooler about a 1/4”.

I run the canyon 150. It has different latches then the 103 so opening it has never been an issue. I like having extra space between the cross bar and cooler to be able to get straps through if needed.

I opted not to use the metal hose clamps on the coupler. The less sharp metal in my boat the better.


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Dude! This is brilliant. Thank you for the suggestion. I'm going to go pick some of these up today.
 

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The latches on the prospector are really disappointing considering how great the rest of the cooler is. I’ve broken each latch probably 4 times. Hot summer trip? Rubber latch gets soft and the metal pin pulls through. Warranty is A+ but the latches on the navigator or any pro series cooler are soooo much better.
Sorry your having that issue with your latches. We did recently beef up that latch material in key areas around the pins to be more robust. We cannot speak to your experience directly but keeping the cooler latched 99% of the time provides more protection for the latch.
 

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Built this "riser" from some left over HDO. Don't extend it so it interferes with the latches on the end. For the middle latch, used a dremel tool to create enough space to get your finger in there. Attached the riser with heavy duty double sided velcro (only to hold it in place when not on the raft). This created enough space to not rub on the floor/pinch hazard View attachment 84688
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You can totally use self tapping screws then remove the wood directly under the latch. You never want a metal screw to go all the way into the cooler area. It will act like a radiator, and could compromise the foam. We would also encourage the use of a little silicon in any screw hole, on boating coolers.
 

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That figures, every single cooler maker out there has their head straight up their *ss when it comes to rafting.
Thanks for the honest feedback (I think). I designed that cooler, and yes I sometimes do invert my head up my ass. In this particular case the tooling has aged a bit, and the mold seam is in that exact area on the corner, which required us to lower the latch mount as the seam became more rounded. Most Prospectors work just fine on most frames, but not all frames. The diameter of the frame tube and the care taken to set the bay width are the primary factors. As noted in other posts we did approach the 150 cooler with that lesson in mind.

We do also keep about a 100 latches here with the pull strings pre installed and we can send them out upon request.
 

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Thanks for the honest feedback (I think). I designed that cooler, and yes I sometimes do invert my head up my ass. In this particular case the tooling has aged a bit, and the mold seam is in that exact area on the corner, which required us to lower the latch mount as the seam became more rounded. Most Prospectors work just fine on most frames, but not all frames. The diameter of the frame tube and the care taken to set the bay width are the primary factors. As noted in other posts we did approach the 150 cooler with that lesson in mind.

We do also keep about a 100 latches here with the pull strings pre installed and we can send them out upon request.
Great responses, thank you. I think the Prospector 103 is badass.
 
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