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what assortments? styles? sizes? quick draws? tows? are needed for a kayaker getting ready to jump into harder creeking (IV+ V-). I plan on taking a swiftwater course and i'm sure that some personal preferences play into this but what are the basics?
 

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A few (3 or so) regular biners, light pulley (optional, I think a biner works fine, too), really small (<5MM) prussiks, some sling to wrap a rock or tree (10' is plenty) and you're set. The prussiks need to be small to bite into the skinny little throw lines we use, regular climbing prussiks are fine for 10MM ropes, but too fat for boating lines. A buddy bought mine for me, but they are killer because they're about 3MM and reinforced with spectra. I don't know where he got them though because all the spectra line I've see is 5.5MM and maybe a little to fat. Think of a smaller prussik cord as sharper teeth. The loads you might be z-draggin though can be pretty intense, so make sure if you get one of these little lines that it's at least as strong as your toss line (think weakest link theory). The other thing I learned in a swiftwater course was that a 50' throw line is only good for narrow streambeds, anything broader than about 30' and it's hard to reach an anchor on shore unless it's right next to the river. I don't know what's available, but a beefier throwbag than the piece of shit I have would be nice.

Also, my course was just for kayakers, so I'd recommend making sure you're entering a course where the instructor has that mindset. When I see a wrapped raft I just think, damn, sucks to be you. . .unless it's the support one carrying my sleeping bag! :shock:

Lastly, I'm not a hardman creeker so that's just my two cents from a course I took last summer.
 

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Biners are not the same as pulleys. The reason to have pulleys and biners is to set up a z-drag of some sort, which gives you a huge strength advantage. However, if you set up a drag with biners, the friction of the rope running through the biners will hugely reduce the strength advantage. Buy and carry two small pulleys if you're serious about saving your friends/boat/gear.
 

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yup, if you are setting up z-drags, etc, you need to carry a pulley. if you are dead set against a pulley, then plan to use 2 biners instead, gates opposite...for your anchor, you can use a daisy chain from your climbing gear, but i also carry 2 6 foot pieces of tubular webbing, water knots are your best bet for webbing. the above comment about prusiks is correct. i carry 3, sometimes more, depending on circumstances. as far as biners go, i have 4 ovals and 2 lockers and 1 oversized locker, i think. to answer your question, you should have both. i also advise you not to mix your climbing gear with your water gear. some people carry all or most of this on their person. i lean toward carrying my broach kit, along with my first aid kit, in a dry bag in my stern.

i strongly advise you take a course and learn as much as possible. you should also be aware that when playing with ropes, you should have a knife handy.

hope that helps...

matt
 

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I use the new wire gate biners. The gates eventually get broken down on others and stuck due to river gunk. If you are going to be serious about it and you are going to create a pin kit that you keep dry then buy whatever you want. You can create some serious force with a spectra rope, an anchor and two biners. I dont do serious creeking so I don't bring pulleys.
 

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You want at least three locking biners

If you want to do this right lockers are the way to go. And get a good pulleys. Inevitably you will have to set up in a situation that the biners are pressing up against rocks and trees. A non locker will pop open greatly compromising its strength. More so, I find ropes can magically find their way into biners in the system if you use non lockers causing friction on ropes etc..

Set up a z drag with and without pulleys with a wet rope. You will quickly see why they are important.

I have seen broaches where half a dozen people are pulling hard on a z system trying to get a boat out. The last thing you want is something popping out or breaking.

Two non lockers gates opposed are effective but are not as easy to set up. You porobably spent close to 2000 on all your gear don't chintz out on 15.00 for non lockers over lockers.
 

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Yes, yes to having some pulleys. I would also say to have 4 regular oval 'biners and for sure 2 locking 'biners. If you have to lower someone down river a locking 'biner to the rescue vest is imperative. Just my opinion of which I have too many.
 

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Two biners together with the gates opposite of each other has always worked for me in a situation where a person is on the other end. Single if its just gear.
 

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Last I heard Wildwasser of Boulder made a great kit that has pretty much all the equipment you need for a pin kit. It looks really slick. If I was starting over, no question I would purchase it. No affiliation either. Instead of prussiks, it uses a mechanical brake that is foolproof.
 

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I am not too saavy with river rescue, but quite with high angle rock and have this to add.

mechanical braking devices need to be used with caution. They, by design have no allowance for slippage when forces become more than they can handle, therefore something must break. Something would generally be the rope being torn or pinched by the brake device. Prusiks will slowly slip to disspate energy without a massive blowout. Also, there are few, if any, ways to safely detension a loaded mechanical brake, whereas prusiks can be worked in reverse back to zero, or even minded by hand when loads are minimal.

A note also on cordage- kevlar and dyneema type cordage are good for in-line loads but have disadvantages. the very cords that make them strong when straight lose significant strength when bent (ie knots, around biners/ pulleys, or when used for prusiks). nylon cordage would be best.

Eric
 

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Rescue Gear

My .02:

Definitely include at least one pulley; two carabiners with reversed gates will work, but it is more weight and more friction.

Use locking biners for your anchor- they are stronger and will not open on you (again, you could use two non-locking with opposed gates, but that is more weight).

Include some duct tape so you can tape a biner to the end of your paddle with the gate open to use as a hook for reaching to pinned boats.

50 ft. throw bag is insufficient in most cases; I have a 75 ft spectra core bag. Note the advantages and disadvantages of spectra line mentioned above.

Carry all rescue gear in a dry bag so that 1) it will last longer, and 2) it will not get wet and heavy.

Always carry a knife so that you can cut a rope in the event of entanglement.

Check your rescue gear at the beginning of each season- look for abrasions in the webbing and prussic cords, check your biner gates and pulleys to be sure they operate smoothly and will not bind.

My kit:

75 ft throw bag
2 prussic cords
2 locking biners
2 12mm pulleys
1 regular biner
15 feet webbing
Duct Tape

Here’s hoping I never have to use it...
 

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Carabiner, my take

New to kayaking and to this forum, but I thought I would throw in my 2-cents. I have been rafting and canoeing on moving rivers for 5+ years. I am a firefighter by trade who has been trained in water rescue and rope rescue. Also, I am a mountaineer and have a different perspective on carabiners and their use in water rescue.
Personally, I have 4 oval wire gated carabiners attached to my PFD (Astral Tempo, I believe). They are attached on a waist strap under my arm with the gates oriented inwards to prevent them from being accidentally clipped. The strap they are attached to is wide enough that the biners are unable to rotate around. I would never carry them in any fashion where the gates could possibly be exposed. In my case the strap works, if it did not, I would carry them in a pocket.
I prefer the wiregate for several reasons. They are light, stronger than traditional biners, not susceptible to gate whip, and much less prone to getting gummed up with dirt. I am not opposed to locking-biners. I just find them more time consuming to use.
Hey, whiel we are on the topic, how many peole still use a double or triple wrapped prusik for a friction not in a mechanical advantage system? Take a few minutes to Google and check out the Klemheist.
 

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This is interesting on the type of biners everyone uses. Especially with the wire gated ones. When I took SWR with Mike Mather last year he pretty much recommends using locking biners for everything.....reason being especially on how they are carried on your person. If they are being put on your PFD or a belt and are not locking like SCHASE said they could accidentially clip to something unintended, but also if that gate is not locked and your body hits something (boat, rock, etc) where that biner is in the right orientation that hook can easily embed itself right into you. He had some pretty gruesome sorries about people being stabbed with unlocked biner hooks. just another thought....
 

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Personally, I like the klemheist better. Pre-sewn webbing loops rated for 3.5kn and a biner work with more rope variations. They can be used with 11mil static or with a standard throw rope. I keep 2 prussic cords in my life vest and 2 loops (wrapped w/ electrical tape) on a biner attached to my vest. A length of webbing 10 to 15 feet.
A couple locking d biners (3 to 4) and couple standard d's and a couple ovals. 2 pulleys and a biner pulley (plastic piece that acts as a pulley, can only be used with standard ovals... load rating is not that great) Some on me, some in the boat. clink clank..clink clank

Trying to keep most of your gear in pockets or on your vest means it will be with you when you swim.

I wish a company like salamander made their waist throw bag with an extra pocket or 2 for pulleys and prussic loops.

Google zdrad does not pull up much. instead look at mechanical advantage or ma 3 to 1.

Check out these links as well:

Simple Machines -- Mechanical Advantage

Tech Tip: Simple Pulley Systems - Guiding Newsletter - August 2002

http://www.ncstaff.net/oed/Pulley MA Systems.pdf
 

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Pin kit:

Webbing, two locking binners, two pulleys, two prussiks, two mechanical breaks (ropemen). Throw bag.

Normally I have a sabercut saw (a hand "chainsaw") -- currently mine is MIA and I have a new one on order.

Around my waist (under my drysuit, but over the spay skirt), two prussiks and two locking binners.

Waist throw bag.
 

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Two locking biners, two prussiks, two pulleys,webbing, two Petzel Tiblocs (check these out, they are way better than prussiks and can handles many sizes of rope, and they are small, relatively light, simple)
I also keep two spare locking biners on my backband, and one on my pfd. It always seems like you can never have too many biners.
 

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Last I heard Wildwasser of Boulder made a great kit that has pretty much all the equipment you need for a pin kit. It looks really slick. If I was starting over, no question I would purchase it. No affiliation either. Instead of prussiks, it uses a mechanical brake that is foolproof.
I saw one of these last year and I completely agree, totally badass setup. everything you need in a nice carry bag. it has great anchor webbing with loops all over it to create an anchor any size you need. i'm going to get one soon as i can get up there.
 
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