Clavey has some parts from Dierks Anchor Systems that might be what you are looking for. The aluminum parts aren't cheap. You might be able to find some more basic pulleys and such at West Marine and then try to fabricate the brackets and such out of basic hardware. I have messed around with putting a basic anchor system on my boat with cheap parts and I haven't come up with anything that works. Let me know if you have any luck. Dan

 

I've made a homemade anchor system for my driftboat and for my raft frame with heavy duty but inexpensive hardware from ace or home depot and any old boat store. The rope cleats are cheap from any bass pro or west marine type joint. My rope pullies are fixed caster wheels (ace and home depot have tons of options) that i strap to the frame w a hoseclamp. For the actual anchor pulley off the back of the boat, I use a boat trailer roller bracket w a deep roller. It works pretty well. If u are in fast current and the boat isn't balanced from port to starboard and it ferries back and forth on a tether, the rope can slide off the trailer roller and get pinched. A giant fender washer or something similar could probably fix this but I haven't bothered. Too bad I live in Colorado where dropping an anchor where dropping an anchor is the equivalent of sodomy on most our rivers.

 

On my 10' BadCat one man I use NRS lo-pro clamp and Alum-tube(upgraded to a bigger pully then the one in pic)
Anchor lock...Only a Lee Lock

 

I think I tried three different home brewed setups before I broke down and got the NRS anchor kit. you can get creative on the cleat and pulley on the rowers side, (add a Harken cam and block on a ubolt like DRE uses) but the rear arm, and side pulley are tough to do any better or cheaper. the side pulley costs $20 and fits into the lo pro. NRS sells all the anchor parts separately. I definitely spent more $ trying to figure out a cheaper/better system and failed.

 

I agree with Whoapiglet. I screwed around with various pulleys and rope grabs before finally getting the NRS anchor setup. You already have the stern seat, so there's not much further to go. It really is an elegant, clean system. The DRE and AAA setups seem a little too Rube Goldberg to me. Additionally, any setup that runs the rope internal of a frame tube create a huge amount of friction. The only modification I made to the NRS setup is to use a pulley at the anchor to halve the pull weight.

 

Watermonkey-would you have pics of how you rigged that pulley? thanks!

 

all you need to do is attach the pulley to the anchor, something like a locking biner works well, thread the rope through, and tie the end back to the mast. Gotta pull twice as far but half as hard.

All the drift boat companies sell an "ez pull" system but you can get the couple parts for a fraction at REI or the like. The small climbing pulleys work well and won't rust out.

it looks like this:

 

Trailer frame with modified NRS anchor system

Sawed off the bottom attachment for the NRS mount and screwed it to the plywood side rails on a double bar custom steel frame and mounted the anchor bar to the side of the seat platform at the back of the custom trailer frame - the fewer the pulleys (only 3) the easier to lift the anchor - add or remove chain to the lead ball or pyramid anchor to match the velocity, i.e. carrying capacity of the river - simple and effective once you get by the hassle of the custom frame design/build

 

You guys really need to toss those jam cleats those thing are death traps. Check out lee locks, the rope would never pop out of a lee lock.

 

You are right - jam cleats can be dangerous but are never an issue if you know how to use them. Just remember to always tie off the line after cleating it in - the jam cleats offer a place to quickly secure the anchor line PRIOR to securing the anchor line to the frame. Have tried Leelocks but they make letting out a lot of line quickly more difficult. With celerity I can undo a slip knot on the frame and lift the anchor line right out of the jam cleat and anchors away! Leelocks can pinch your fingers if you are not careful. Leelocks also offer another stopper for a kink in the line.

 

You might also consider a floor anchor system similar to a Bo's anchor system. I made my own out of scraps and it cost less than $20 for the whole setup. It's a super slick system and there isn't any exposed rope on the frame as it all runs under the floor. It will take a little more effort than the other systems on here but they sure work slick.