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I just bought an aire 130e, AIRE | Rafts, Catarafts, Inflatable Kayaks Whitewater Rafting Accessories and Boats. I'll be using it for paddle rafting and I'm about to get a frame setup for 3-7 day trips. I'll be doing things like the Middle fork and Main of the Salmon river. Does anyone think it's a bad idea to get a frame for this boat? I picked the boat up for 1600 and I need to get a slightly custom frame due to this boat needing something that is 60-64" long and 53.5" wide. I will get a frame that holds a cooler and dry box and probably only run the boat with myself and 1-2 others. Should I be worrying about weight, length, etc. for this setup and these rivers? It also has the flat back, not sure what that will be like if I end up taking anything backwards.

Thanks for any advice. I'd rather not put ~800 dollars in for frame, oars, etc. if this boat won't do what I need it to.
 

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I just bought an aire 130e, AIRE | Rafts, Catarafts, Inflatable Kayaks Whitewater Rafting Accessories and Boats. I'll be using it for paddle rafting and I'm about to get a frame setup for 3-7 day trips. I'll be doing things like the Middle fork and Main of the Salmon river. Does anyone think it's a bad idea to get a frame for this boat? I picked the boat up for 1600 and I need to get a slightly custom frame due to this boat needing something that is 60-64" long and 53.5" wide. I will get a frame that holds a cooler and dry box and probably only run the boat with myself and 1-2 others. Should I be worrying about weight, length, etc. for this setup and these rivers? It also has the flat back, not sure what that will be like if I end up taking anything backwards.

Thanks for any advice. I'd rather not put ~800 dollars in for frame, oars, etc. if this boat won't do what I need it to.
A couple of friends of mine took their Aire 130D on two of my Grand Canyon 30-day trips and did just fine. No flips...
They used a simple NRS Longhorn frame.
 

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I own a 130 e and it works great on rivers like you mentioned. I have a welded steel frame from cambridge welding in Cambridge Idaho. I believe the boat is 35 between the tubes. He can build whatever dimensions you want.
 

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I own a 130 e and it works great on rivers like you mentioned. I have a welded steel frame from cambridge welding in Cambridge Idaho. I believe the boat is 35 between the tubes. He can build whatever dimensions you want.
If I ended up with a three bay design I assume I would have to take out all 3 thwarts. Does that do much to change the width?
 

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A couple of friends of mine took their Aire 130D on two of my Grand Canyon 30-day trips and did just fine. No flips...
They used a simple NRS Longhorn frame.
Thanks, someone else mentioned getting the longhorn frame due to cost and easy fit. I think it might be worth it to get something with more bays so I can easily lug a cooler and dry box though.
 

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I had a 12 ft. Hyside last year. I put together my own NRS compact outfitter frame using the 54 inch cross bars. I carried a small cooler & one dry box. The frame cost $462. My Hyside had a straight section of 66 inches. According to the wireframe drawing of your 130E you've got a straight section of 60 inches. That will limit how much you can fit unless you extend the frame up onto the curved part of your tubes a little bit. I'm attaching some pics of my raft. As you can see in the first picture, I wasn't using every inch of the frame length, and I could have carried a bigger cooler.

I'm not familiar with your raft, but three people & gear, plus a dry box & cooler seems a bit much for that size boat. Doable, but not ideal. The squared off stern might give you a little more gear space though? One other issue with a narrow boat will be finding a dry box & cooler to fit. My dry box for the little Hyside came off my cataraft and was custom made.

Take a tape measure to your boat and figure out how to maximize your frame length. Then look at what cooler & box you want. Get all your measurements down before you start building your frame. It's a puzzle, but it's also fun to mess around with it. Enjoy!
 

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Thanks, someone else mentioned getting the longhorn frame due to cost and easy fit. I think it might be worth it to get something with more bays so I can easily lug a cooler and dry box though.
Yeah, my friends just used the Longhorn frame because that was the one they had...definitely not ideal.
They just put their cooler and boxes right on the raft floor. It was amazing how much gear they carried in that little Aire 13 footer. Besides the necessities for a 30-day trip, they also strapped on a WW Kayak and one of those Aire inflatable sofas!
 

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My Dad runs a 12'8" Riken Pioneer and he has done plenty of overnight trips with it, often as the gear boat for groups on the Rogue, John Day, Grand Ronde, Owyhee, Jarbidge, etc. He doesn't run a drybox, his thwarts don't come out. For the most part that boat is great, but it sinks with weight. The footprint is smaller, and a 14' raft with a similar load will be easier to row.
13's are great boats, so don't think I'm saying anything bad about it. I think if I could I would have a 13' for day stuff and 15' for overnight stuff. If you pack smart, I think you will be able to do anything. That is a great price, if I found something like that I might pick one up as a primary paddle raft! Then I could leave my 14' as the row only boat. :D
 

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There have been many posts and threads about multi-day trips with two people on 12-13 ft. rafts. I think 3 people & gear sounds like too much. At that point you lose some of the maneuverability of the smaller raft, and that's one of the main positives about a smaller raft.
 

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We have done a two night Rogue trip in my 130 e, with three people. It will work for that but does get a bit chummy. It is probably optimal to only have 2 people but three people will work fine. Here is a picture of my 130 in The Greenwall on the the Illinois.
 

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