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Owner: Class 5 Carvings
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Discussion Starter #1
Want to add a few footman loops to my DRE drybox lid so I can strap down some camp chairs on top so when I open the box they stay put, but nervous about drilling holes in my nice new expensive drybox.

Do you use rubber washers or nylon ones to make the holes watertight after you bolt in the footman loops? Water tight washers on the inside or outside of the box?

Basic dumb question, just dont want to drill holes in my box if its going to cause a problem I'm not thinking about. Do they make aluminum footman loops? I could just weld 4 of those on easily...
 

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^Agreed

Same process that was used to install the latches on your dry-box.
 

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Owner: Class 5 Carvings
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Discussion Starter #6
You mentioned sealing blind rivets. That site mentions these as the options:

Also known as closed-end sealing rivets, they prevent water and air from passing through or around them. Because most of the mandrel is retained, they have higher shear and tensile strengths than standard blind rivets of the same size and material.


Stainless steel rivets and mandrels have excellent corrosion resistance and may be mildly magnetic. Rivets are 18-8 stainless steel; mandrels are 300 series stainless steel.


Aluminum rivets and mandrels are corrosion resistant and nonmagnetic.


Aluminum with steel mandrel rivets have corrosion resistant and nonmagnetic bodies.


Domed with plastic seal rivets have a sealant bonded underneath the head to reduce leaks. The sealant withstands temperatures of -60° to 250° F. Rivets and mandrels are aluminum, which is corrosion resistant and nonmagnetic.


Have you used the domes with plastic seals before? Seem like they are extra air and water tight. Anyway thanks for the link going this route for sure! Might add a dozen or so to my decking as well to make it easier to strap things down.
 

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If you're going to add them to your side-rails, I would suggest adding them to the sides of your pipe...not the decks. That way when you're not using them, you're not stepping on footmans loops as you walk around.
 

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Owner: Class 5 Carvings
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Discussion Starter #8
Great idea. Any concerns with drilling into the frame tubes? A few small holes shouldnt hurt the strength of the frame should it? Those dont need to be self sealing rivets, so would you suggest steel or aluminum ones?
 

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Use sealing in the frame tubes if your frame is welded or it will fill with water. I have never used the rivets with the plastic seals. I have heavily tested the sealing rivets and they do not leak. The silicon dab will ensure this and you will only have to purchase one type of rivet.
 

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Owner: Class 5 Carvings
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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds good, thanks for all the info, aluminum with steel madrel, self sealing, and a tab of silicone! Off to Granger now.

Oh one more quick question, what size rivet to you normally use? 1/8'', 3/16'' and if the rivets are a touch long will they still pull up nice and tight? So like if I buy 1/3'' ones for the thicker material of my frame tubes, will those rivets still be ok on the thinner dry box material or should I buy shorter ones for the dry box?
 

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On McMaster-Carr's site they have recommended length for material thickness. It says "Material thickness Range" and then the recommeded rivet length after it. Go with SS for sure.

I've drill quite a few holes in our NRS frame tubes for nutserts and have had no problems. I'm drilling a 3/8'' hole for a 1/4-20 nutsert. As GC Guides suggested, slap a little silicone caulk on it.
 

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I recommend the material thickness range. .126" through .187" for footmans loops and 0.251"-0.312" for frame tubes should work.
 

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pop rivets

Be sure you buy non rusting loops, zinc coated will rust. If the loops will have a large amount of stress on them be sure to get the rivets long enough to back with washers. Pop rivets and footman loops are one of a rafter's best friends.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok new question, I havent bought my rivets yet, been too busy but just checked out the hole diameter on the footman loops and a 3/16'' rivet seems like there is a lot of wiggle room, but 1/4'' rivets are hard to find in longer lengths and I'm guessing I'd have to drill out the holes just a tiny tiny bit on the footman loop since a 1/4'' drill bit wont fit through but a 15/64'' will...

So the question is, do you all just use the 3/16'' rivets? Do you use a rivet washer? Just drill the hole at 3/16'' so the rivet fits tight in the material and don't worry about it being loose through the hole in the footman loop?

Thanks, just want to get the right rivets and do this project correctly the first time.
 

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Washers are never a bad idea, but stainless steel rivets are pretty strong. Washers with SS rivets have got to be bomber. I've use aluminum rivets for the slide bolts on my commercial work top on the truck and they constantly have to be replaced. The SS rivets on the on the SS latch have been on there for many years.

FWIW, I measured the footman loops I have and they are 3/16'' and I drilled a 3/16'' hole. It may seem snug, but when the rivet is in the puller you can work it in there w/o too much trouble.
 
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